I have a galaxy 94hp with a problem. I thought one of my finals was bad so I replaced both. Once I did that I got no swing on the gauge in the radio or on an external swr meter. When I try to key up I get audio on talkback just nothing out of the radio. To me it seems like I broke a connection somewhere in that area but I'm not sure what (resistor, diode, etc.) anyone have an issue like this before or have an idea what to check?
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Galaxy dx-94hp no transmit
- Thread starter Blue95dak
- Start date
Was it transmitting well before? You mention swing, what kind of dead key readings? Have you tried it without the amp section connected
/ eliminated the amplifier as being the problem?
More information the more somebody can help you.
Yes it was working before. If have to look at my meter when I get home to be completely sure but I'd say around 20 watts dead key with the power turned up approx 1/4. I have not tried removing the amp from the equation due to the fact that it stopped working when I replaced the final so I assumed the issue would be right there. That is something I can try when I get home from work tonight. I was thinking a resistor or a diode went bad somehow but I admit I have a lot to learn about this.
Um, not to put too fine a point on it, but any time something stops working after it was 'worked on' points you directly to the area where the work was done. It's too easy to make an unintended change to a circuit while changing out a component.
The radio circuit board has one final amplifier transistor, or "final". But to the left of it is a driver transistor that looks the same and has the same type number on it.
I'll guess you didn't test either one after removing them.
If they had tested good, this would be an important piece of the puzzle.
Do you have a general-purpose multi meter? Something to measure DC Volts with?
There is a test jumper they often call the "mirror" board adjacent to the driver and final transistors. It's a piece of shiny double-sided circuit board held in place by three fork-shaped spring contacts.
Connect the meter's negative lead to circuit-board ground. DON'T use the radio's metal chassis. This model isn't wired that way. Probe the mirror board with the positive lead and then key the mike in AM mode. Turn the carrier-power knob up and down and see if this reading changes when you do.
The results of that test will determine what gets checked next.
73
The radio circuit board has one final amplifier transistor, or "final". But to the left of it is a driver transistor that looks the same and has the same type number on it.
I'll guess you didn't test either one after removing them.
If they had tested good, this would be an important piece of the puzzle.
Do you have a general-purpose multi meter? Something to measure DC Volts with?
There is a test jumper they often call the "mirror" board adjacent to the driver and final transistors. It's a piece of shiny double-sided circuit board held in place by three fork-shaped spring contacts.
Connect the meter's negative lead to circuit-board ground. DON'T use the radio's metal chassis. This model isn't wired that way. Probe the mirror board with the positive lead and then key the mike in AM mode. Turn the carrier-power knob up and down and see if this reading changes when you do.
The results of that test will determine what gets checked next.
73
I also noticed before it quit working that I was getting about 12 watts when keyed up and right before it stopped working I was getting about 8-9 watts
IRF520's can be blown up easily. but they are cheap.
if you give up, let me know. located in SE Louisiana.
I need to make some more "beer n pizza money"
if you give up, let me know. located in SE Louisiana.
I need to make some more "beer n pizza money"
So your Dk changed before the failure and you know that for sure? What's power on low and on high? You're mentioning blown finals but that radio also has 4 finals in the amplifier section that are also prone to failure from being hot rodded or high standing wave.
As @nomadradio mentioned, if you've lost more than what was there when you started part swapping then chances are high that you've bothered something else in the process. Do you know for sure you're feeding audio into the radio?
Start with the obvious in an organized manner for process of elimination.
Blobs..... stray blobs
What you may have bothered when handling the radio to swap parts. ALL the wiring from the radio pcb going to the amplifier section.
Many many probabilities here.
A detailed preliminary would have helped to make sure you aren't now chasing a mirage.
As @nomadradio mentioned, if you've lost more than what was there when you started part swapping then chances are high that you've bothered something else in the process. Do you know for sure you're feeding audio into the radio?
Start with the obvious in an organized manner for process of elimination.
Blobs..... stray blobs
What you may have bothered when handling the radio to swap parts. ALL the wiring from the radio pcb going to the amplifier section.
Many many probabilities here.
A detailed preliminary would have helped to make sure you aren't now chasing a mirage.
oh, when I said "they are cheap" ( IRF520 ) I mean low cost.
less than a dollar. a good part.
I used to make transmitters with these IRF510 / 520 / 530 / 540 MOSFETs.
also good for powering up a relay. Radio Shack used to sell the IRF510.
less than a dollar. a good part.
I used to make transmitters with these IRF510 / 520 / 530 / 540 MOSFETs.
also good for powering up a relay. Radio Shack used to sell the IRF510.
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