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mrf454 uses a 211-11 case (larger) mrf455 uses a 211-07 case (smaller) The transistors in the amp are the larger case style.

Here is the original schematic. Don't know if it helps any.

These should help. Looks like the Blue wire is your HV. Sounds like your Power supply matches Power Supply 1.

On my Magnum 6000, there are 2 pink 2 pin jumpers (near the main relay). One is a "low" drive and the other is a "high" drive (3dB). That gives you 4 different drive levels that can be set internally with the 2 jumpers. Active class A bias, 5 pole Chebyshev output filter, keying jack, cooling...

Have you checked the on/off switch to make sure it is working correctly? Got voltage going through both contacts when "On"?

Its based on a false pretense. For a receive signal greater than 3 S units, I would say it is relatively accurate. For receive signals below 3 S units, it is not. If the AGC circuit hasn't kicked in (audio only signal), then: 1. 3dB increase is audibly noticeable, not 5dB. 2. A 3dB increase...

Between the two of these, you should be able to figure it out. Good Luck.

Unfortunately, the firmware was for the earlier ARES II. You will see that the file dates and the comments are all from 3/2023 to 4/2023. This firmware update was for ARES II that were made before 3/2023. If you just purchased one from Moonraker, it is a new one and the firmware update...

https://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/anybody-use-switching-power-supplies.259884/post-743478 I think Eldorado828 is right. If you are going to try this, instead of using 22k it will need to be ~15K resistor to increase the voltage up that High. With a 22k I can get it up to 14v.

Not the firmware (I don't think it is publicly available). But it is the setup software that allows you to copy or re-write your radio's current settings using a programing cable.

White and Gray shielded wire connects from J104 To CN608 Q603 good? Signal/voltage on pin 14 of U604?

D14 Ok? Correct polarity on C39?

Another cheap option, especially if you are comfortable soldering. Get one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/162116182904?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5336136228&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 And just swap them out with the 4 Toshibas. They are the closest thing to a drop...

Finding 4 matched original 2879's - be prepared to take a loan out at the bank. Since you have a 100amp PS and following your 50% rule: IMO, the closest you will get to what you had is getting a straight 4 HG2879C in a B bias. See if the builder will adjust it to A/B passive (Like the TS 500)...

The "factory settings" (numerical value in the Service Menu) aren't going to do you any good. As has been said, each radio is different. You will have to use a SG to fix your problem, there is no way around it. What I can tell you is the "factory setting" for the S meter input levels. These...

I got one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/182412355854?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5336136228&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1 and one of these: https://www.ebay.com/itm/174616576147?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5336136228&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1...

Remove D75 & R188. You can also remove D52 if you want - it doesn't matter. Unsolder the other end of the Red wire on Fine from the Circuit board and solder it in the hole where the anode of D75 was (VR5 wiper). Solder a wire to pin 1 of IC4 (MB3756 - constant 8v source) and to the hole where...

https://www.sirioantenne.it/en/products/hf/turbo-5000-performer-5000 What you want is the Performer 5000 P/N: 2218505.50. It has the lever on the side. It comes with a 13' RG58 coax which can be swapped out for RG303/RG400. Or you can buy it premade from Sirio...

Remove R322, D63, and R115 Attach a wire from the hole left by R115 that connects to J28 F1: The other end of the wire goes to the hole left by the anode of D63: Then on the solder side of the board, solder a wire from the hole left by R322 that connects to VR8 and a constant 8v source -...