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Thats on the menu. Another weird thing that I found was a jumper very close to the finals that has a rubber insulator over it. Not heat shrink. Its a jumper that measures 25 ohms? ?? Should be a short! Anyhow? Other than that final issue, the rf power knob does nothing I tested it all the way...
Studying the scematic, and further testing shows that when powered down for the night, and then immediately setting everything up to adjust VR20 as per service manual, I do get my bias capabilities back as long as I dont reinstall the mirror board. Once its back in, then I key up, I get only 4...
Appreciate the come back. I will check on the .7 volts. Thats new info but the rest of what you said is appreciated but mentioned in my thread. Thanks.
I know, I know. Not another galaxy thread. I did try asking through an old thread but got no response. Firstly to minimize redundant comments, I am a radio technician military trained. 22 years service. Lots of know how in repairs and restoring. All adjustments as per service manual done...
My VR 20 wont get me any current. Transistor is real and its good. Very strange. The transistor associated with vr 10 I can get way more idle current out of it. When adjusting the pot for 50ma, its very touchy. Hair rigger. Very jumpy. It easily can go way past the 50 from the looks if where 50...
Geebus! Maybe thsts why mine shows 1k up on USB and 1k down on LSB! All alignments are spot on but when I'm on 38LSB I'm told I'm off freq. 3 counters measure 27.384 and USB its 27.386. AM is rock solid. This was driving me nuts! Could it be something other than this? I only just saw this...
Gotcha. Yeah. Weirdly enough it was hammering out big power. I preferred stock so I put it back straight
It was a real rats nest. So who sells these HG trsnsistors?
73s back to you
Thats good to know but oddly I pulled a good set of 2312's and a 1969 was driving them. From a Galaxy 99. I was going to try the known good set in a saturn that was cabbaged with Chinese fakes. What would replace a 2166?
I was reading a post from NZ stating that he turned down the gate bias voltage on his 980 and it solved his problems. If there is a way to turn down that gate voltage it would be nice to know. My 980 ebay find needed a new driver transistor and the final. After going through a cacophony of...
I learned something about old caps pre-transformer input. The 2 at the very input of the radio. If any one of those shorts, and chances are they will, you wind up with a hot chassis. Very unhealthy to test 115VAC between ground of your coax connector and the chassis itself.
Finally got a good rd16hhf1 mosfet and it works great on AM but there is/was a 10 ohm surface mount micro resistor that fried when i switched over to ssb but only when I keyed the mic in ssb. The resistor continues to smoke even after unkeying and then if I switch to AM it stops fry mode...
Hmmmmm...... the elusive cap. Maybe someone on here can shed a little light on which cap it could be. Its got the 1306 07 finals set up, should be able to get as much audio out as a trc457. I have not tried anything yet. Plan on putting it back straight. Bad mod can also be due to over cranking...
Ive got the 23 and 40. The 23 is on the Sams site. I dont have the 40 but it would be nice to find it. I dont know what the big ordeal is with these. Everyone Ive talked to says they are really special. I find that they dont have mod at all and the board has about 1.5 inches around it...
Cool to know. I'll look it up. But get this. I bought 2 10 packs of the rd16 type. Completely different sellers. 1 on ebay the other amazon. They were blowing my fuses. All tested good on my transistor/mosfet tester. Not 1 of them worked. It is a complete rip off true, but it has me wondering...
So true. I find that there are a lot of really good features on it and the ears are remarkable. The pots are kind of fragile it seems. Only bitch really is the mits rd16hhf1 and thats because the mosfet has poor internal protection. Maybe the old diode trick between the drain and source in...
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