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This is an interesting topic. Just to know you beamed a lot of power on a frequency that will travel (I still recommend the 1420mhz ordeal I mentioned earlier) weather it's a shot in the dark literally or not would be kinda cool. Sure 440 would work but really while it's true and all...we have...
Sounds like a complete goof to me. What is the difference? Metal is metal..is there a difference between the 10 meter metal and 11 meter metal that it is made out of? What it comes down to is design. Guess that was over his head.
This is a radio I never quite understood from a design standpoint. I remember seeing them a lot back in 2002 and 2003. Detachable faceplace...but the clips would always break I remember. I also recall two 1969 transistors but no where near enough current due to inadequate components and to small...
I am definitely in the wrong business. Iz needz to make mez some supa bowl boxes called da foot broke off in yo aaz series and antenna series called maul all up in yo aaz series...all based off of no technical knowledge other than some bird watts. They need to look big, metal, shiney or krylon...
At At Exit...not trying to upset anyone. That really isn't my intent. Sometimes words on a screen are hard to get the "tone" from so I hope not offend..but....
A class AB (no such thing as BJT AB1) would actually be worse in my opinion if it's a 2 x 4 because a class AB amplifier actually...
The question is...do you want to do this "legally" or not? If you want to just "go for it" build a transmitter or modify one that will transmit in the 1420-1450mhz range. The reason to pick this frequency is because it was discovered that hydrogen is resonant at about that frequency allowing it...
A 2x4? Oh yeah I know those things....completely over driven IMD spur boxes that make wattmeters look good and have only a fraction of the actual power output they show in band or on frequency. Someone's pocket gets fat from those.
I wouldn't do the motor maul thing...it is a band aid approach at best. Remember every time you doulbe your power you only go up 1/2 of an S unit on the other end. Why not take the money and get yourself a good radio, and a nice 4 "pill" amp like a texas star dx-500 instead of a copper clad...
Unfortunately..I have to agree. Most that I have seen have just enough components to "work" and it seems builders have had issues and have experimented to get them to work. XForce has no real engineers, at least they didn't and Carl hires others to design and figure out their issues then they...
Run BOTH positive and negative to the battery directly. Then a GOOD power noise eliminator will help. Depending on the noise, fuel pump, PCM, some vehicles electric coolong fan, alternator whine...there are other things you can do as well. Do you happen to know what kind of noise you are having...
Details..more details. Remember too that a dummy load has a perfect swr..but it is completely a resistive load and for all intensive purposes it does not radiate.
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