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so in this setup when the oscillator switches between the bands, does it just simply swamp out the extisting signal there? and by white and green wire.....since i dont have that reference on hand, the white is the oscillator output i'm assuming? what is the green?

the 25gtl is slowly crossing the finish line. i'm thinkin it will be posted in the gallery and the thread locked. next one i might either post in gallery, or maybe i'll do another thread to allow you guys (the peanut gallery) to interact with me while it happens again, idk. so in the pile i got...

if you change the 10.24 inside already what happens is is skews the steps so the rx and tx wont track

nice. where are those available at?

the internal 10.24 is still feeding the PLL in this layout but is disconnected from the vco section where it or the 9.79 is replacing the signal from the internal crystal. so no, bc i dont swap THAT particular crystal.

https://www.cbcintl.com/expander160.htm i have used it to switch between 10.24 and 9.79 and the oscillator is connected with a small rg174 coax so it wont leak. the internal 10.24 turns into something with a single job of establishing steps where down the line its injected in via the oscillator

next few pics might be nsfw. we're gonna get real....perferted with our content........(i'll see myself out sorry) so accomodating for the mounting bracket screw and other components. gonna build out the channel kit on this, kinda like an expo but not really, because it is diode switched with...

yea years back i ordered some from ebay for a rig where driver and final was blown, and they had no umpfh. ended up pulling a 1957 (which imo are good enough to leave alone) out of a parts pig rig and it worked great. i don't think HG makes drivers (but they should)

between the predriver and driver. the resistor r43 was the one i swapped from 10 to 4.7 right at the base of the driver. idk what its got in there but it is rockin. now where does one find a 2sc2314 these days that isn't counterfeit?

these old rigs are worth the work. the HG final really tuned out good i do that most of the time but ya know what? im thinkin this is good enough for govt work here with the numbers i'm seein. after posting that i actually thought to tune the slug right before the driver (duh). now we're at...

details details details. as im sure some of ya fellow working class bros have come to the realization that if you want nice stuff, ya gotta work for it. if you want a nice CB you are either dropping a big amt of dough, or you can take a rig headed for the scrapyard, dirt cheap, give it a little...

yea that makes a little more sense. 28 is on the high side of what you can peak into the amp, but ive seen it done

ah ok. so what is your radio putting out peak? arent those 50 watt rigs?

yea, im talkin about the 60 PEP part here tho. i figured the KL203 could handle a 980 but i always thought a dualfinal rig is more or less outta the question

wait, you guy are pushing that much power into a low drive amp?

the shells look pretty nice now. still screams "rattlecan" but ya know what? thats better than screaming cigarette tar

took 100pf across c42 and c46, changed r43 to 4.7ohm. threw a HG 2sc1969 into this, replaced the nylon screw with a allenscrew and insulator. the slug got removed. now im getting a little over 10.5 MFJ watts rms and around 30 MFJ watts peak. without the NPC mod the dk is 9.5 so im gonna build...

bezel is back on, new switches, one of them currently sporting 3 wires for a channel kit. starting to look like somethin.

so im gonna bring this back because.....observations. i have an EDZ about 20' up flatside between trees. i have heard maine off of the end of the antenna (most flatside gain being broadside to the west coast) which tells me i am doing a little cloudburning because i skip right over them and most...

i have something like 20 24n40s and on the transistor tester the rdson figure definetly varies between them and the rocketbox fets. its higher on the rb fets. so my suspicion is that they pick these oddballs out of large lots of 24n40s and charge for it. the part number IS correct however...