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Yanked out and checked: C165 C158 C160 C166 All test around their given values. Probed collector of pre-driver, driver and final. Pre-driver seems to be amping up and steady, final seems to amp up more and steady but the driver doesn't seem as amped up as the pre-driver or the final and isn't a...

Update: Went ahead and replaced tr45 with a new one. Now: Base - 1.51v Collector - 8.28v Emitter - 0.78v Still nothing on external meter. I do see a stronger signal on the monitor radio (almost full scale). I can barely hear my modulation, but it's crackly and not understandable. Nothing got...

Oh ok, I'm an idiot...lol... Base is 1.29v Collector is 8.29v Emitter is 0.00v That's with TR45 removed.

Got all resistors and disc caps back in. Checked over thoroughly for any shorts/solder balls, all clear. TR45 Solder pads with TR45 removed. Checked in transmit mode. Base - 0.50v Collector - 8.29v Emitter - 2.06v

Ok, be back shortly. Thinking the TR45 may be bad. According to the datasheet, the minimum HFe is 10, typical is 80 and maximum is 300. This tr45 shows as 22, which is well below the typical range, closer to the minimum range. Gonna throw these resistors back in, be back shortly.

Ok so C172 is fine. Do I need to replace these resistors before checking the tr45 pads while it's removed?

Curious thing is, C172 (104j, mica cap, large shiny) suppose to be 0.1uf 50wv but tests as a 92nf. From my understanding 0.1uf is 10nf, not 92nf. Took one out of another radio (parts radio), checked it and it also tests as 95nf. On both my tc1 tester and my capacitor meter. I test them twice...

Ok, got back home... Yanked out R221 and R222. Checked both on the tester and then on the ohm meter. R221 out of circuit tests as 1.50k ohm on the tester and 1.496k ohm on the ohm meter. R222 out of circuit tests as 330 ohm in tester and 329.98 ohm on the ohm meter. All the disc caps I...

My bad, I meant R222 which is a 330 ohm. I replaced R222 previously with a new one, now it looks like heat got to the bottom of R222.

C275 tests as a 11pf Tr45 tests as a good transistor with 22 HFe. R220 still tests as a 4.7 ohm. R330 looks like it got hot on the bottom, coating is wrinkled. Got to run pick up a laptop to upgrade, be back shortly.

Replaced that 4.7k ohm resistor back to a 4.7 ohm. Checked for 27mhz at base of driver and final, present on both and holding steady at 27mhz, but, but the 4.7 ohm resistor immediately started smoking and cooked. Still nothing on meter though.

The transmit mixer shows around the right voltages in transmit. Found C175 shorted. Found C182 shorted. Found R220 was open. After replacing those, then the collector voltage on the driver and final went down to 0.41v, they were the right voltages before I changed the above parts. Checked the...

Oh, I see why the circuit still shows as a short with C182 removed. That cap goes to two coils inside two different IFT's. The other end of those coils go to circuit board ground.

Well... Removed R220, tested in tester shows 465 ohms (same as in circuit). Double checked with two ohm meters, bout the same value of 46? ohms. Replaced it: Then the emitter of the pre-driver went up to 2.21v, base and collector remain unchanged. Still no output, still no voltage on the base...

No bias diodes or bias trim pots in a 55v. Has a 22uh inductor in each trim pot location for driver and final. Got another 55v from the same guy for a parts radio. It hasn't had any parts removed yet so I figured I would see if I could get it going instead of the no xmit 55v. Well this parts...

R220 in circuit tests as 465.3 ohms. Might need to yank it out to test it.

Got another Galaxy DX 55V on the desk. Been tracking this issue down for about 3 weeks now. New driver New final New pre-driver New Passthrough regulator New AF regulator New diode at D77 New 2.2uf 50v bias cap Both 22uh inductors new When keying, radio will switch from receive to transmit...

Yes, it's an echo board in the cig pack. Never seen anything like this before in these radios, lol...but at least it wasn't going to short out. I'm just curious as to why they didn't just put an L tap on it and mount it to the chassis. You would think the radio would be hacked up after seeing...

Omg, lol... I couldn't believe what I saw when I popped the covers off this old school 148 gtl. I'll let you guys/gals guess what it is. Hint, the srf/SWR/cal control has been removed from the front, taped off and laid inside the radio. for the control for what's in the cigarette pack,

Anyone know where the transmit frequency adjustment is on the HS4 boards? Also, a local friend of mine asked me if there's any way to add the VFO windup to the Retevis HS4, I told him I wasn't sure and would have to look over the schematic first. However, I can't find a scheme for this radio...