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I'll try the zener first, then reduce the bias if need be.

Haven't taken care of this querk yet, but I did speak to a few of my locals over the phone and asked them to describe what they saw on their meters and what they heard the whole time I was conversing. They all claimed the same identical thing. My signal (carrier) was very strong and the audio...

Guess I'll throw some on. I just checked this radio out over the air after replacing Mosfets and a few caps. Everyone says it's loud and strong, but when the watt meter jumps down to 43w and starts gradually creeping back up they said my audio gets weak and creeps back up. I checked around for...

I always fully recap any radio over 40yrs old. I've always been told that 10v caps last about 15 to 20 years, and so on with other values. 10v - 15 to 20 years 16v - 20 to 25 years 25v - 30 to 35 years 35v - 40 to 45 years 50v - 55 to 60 years Most of the older radios have 10v, 16v and 50v...

Got a General Lee on the desk for an issue that reminds me of something heating up. The radio has a mosfet (520) driver and two mosfet (520) finals. Radio is not stressed out in any way, runs cool, receives great, transmit great, just an odd issue. The radio does 53w Pep, everyone says it...

Correct, I worded it incorrectly.

Not sure, should be mica. I think the ceramic insulators can create capacitance through the transistors.

The following pic is one of many instances I run across on my desk. Maxing these radios out just to see that swing on that watt meter is damaging parts due to excessive heat buildup. Guys/gals, you don't have to stress these radios out. You don't need any swing mods, regulator mods, etc... Just...

Try increasing final bias to 35ma up to 55ma, see what you get. I'm with Cable on this, every 1969 I've ever seen runs best around 50ma. Your 138 came factory with the 1307 that needs only around 15ma, whereas you're now using a 1969 which needs more current to operate at its max potential...

I was thinking of another radio I was helping someone out with on this site, got the threads mixed up. Sorry bout that, my bad.

VCO Buffers, carrier oscillators, driver/final bias drifting, RF stage not aligned properly. All these will affect output. Do a complete alignment, paying close attention to results. Like nomad said, if any of those silver cans are topped out (core flush with top) or bottomed out (core flush...

How bout sideband output? I'm sure you've already recapped (or had it recapped) right?

No problem Krazy, Hope to hear you in skipland sometime. On CB I hang on channel 40 AM, 29 AM, sometimes channel 1 AM and I go by 351 around the Carolinas. Peace...

I see a "simple swing" mod also in the top pic above. This simple swing mod I see no problem with, I use it myself also at times. But in order to go back factory I would remove it. The one I'm referring to is located right in front of VR13 (AM HI deadkey adjustment). It's marked as R238...

See those resistors around D83 in the first pic above? There are two laying flat (not standing up). One of those is R249 (it's marked on the board). It looks to be connected, so no worries. If it's swinging 40w max, then turn the RF power knob all the way up, and adjust VR13 for a 9w or 10w...

If R249, TR53 or TR32 are removed, clipped, cut...then VR14 won't do anything.

Yes, VR14 does tie into D83 through TR53. VR14 is a 1k (stamping on VR should be 102).

Use the service info on cbtricks.org for the Galaxy DX-99V. Same board layout, parts, etc ..as the Saturn.

D83 is a 1N60P diode. And yes, this would affect your modulation as it's tied into C133 and TR53, both of which affect the AMC.

Things to check: R238, make sure it's just a 5.6k ohm resistor. Not a diode and resistor. Some people will place a diode on one side of this resistor to allow the radio to swing to max peak regardless of the carrier level. Can be aligned out to look good on an oscope and spectrum analyzer. Not...