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I bought an old Maco 750 and it has a tube that is not lighting up and want to replace it. I would like to get a tube test to test the tubes also the tubes are M2057. I see tube testers all over Ebay, but I don't know what kind of test to get to test my type of tubes.
I just unboxed my new radio and did the 11 meters conversion. I'm using a Bird 43 meter with a Peak kit in it. The average watts are at 30 when you key the mic with no swing. If you turn the power down the wattage goes down but still no swing. My PEP is 110 watts. Why is there no forward swing...
I upgraded my power wire today to one with a ground and the shock issue has gone away. That was my first idea to fix the problem I just wasn't sure if I had more of an issue. Thanks everyone for your input.
I think I found something. The schematic says it should be a .001 125v. The one on the board says CM .01M Z5U 1KV and the board looks burnt. I don't know the correct way to check it but it has 29 volts on one side and nothing on the other. I ohm'd it out and got no continuity.
I just bought a used Eagle 2000 which is the same as a Saturn. The radio seems to operate fine but the chassis has at least 25 volts AC running through it at all times (on or off). I have looked everything over but nothing jumps out at me. I could use some suggestions please.
I think I'l give this a try but how do you short out the coax for a 1/2 wave and then cut it to measure it? Also My 55 has the Bluetooth but I'm not sure how to use it. What app works with it?
Thanks for the reply. I do have the calibration ends. It's only a shorted, open and 50 ohm end. That's all you need. To be plan what I'm looking for is to get the resonance as close to "0" as I can. I have seen calibrating it at the meter and at the tee with and without the dummy load get you...
I just wanted people to see what I talking about using the tee and dummy load. So I posted that video. The guy who made the video didn't clarify if he calibrated the AA-55 and if he did at what point.
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