I just bought a used Eagle 2000 which is the same as a Saturn. The radio seems to operate fine but the chassis has at least 25 volts AC running through it at all times (on or off). I have looked everything over but nothing jumps out at me. I could use some suggestions please.
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Eagle 2000 (Saturn), the chassis is hot (current).
- Thread starter Metalhead
- Start date
Disconnect the transformer secondary from the bridge rectifier and see if it still happens. If so, check for continuity between the windings and the chassis.
If not the transformer, reconnect the bridge rectifier and disconnect the DC side of it and recheck to rule out the rectifier.
If 25v AC is getting past that, something very strange is going on.
If not the transformer, reconnect the bridge rectifier and disconnect the DC side of it and recheck to rule out the rectifier.
If 25v AC is getting past that, something very strange is going on.
The little square thing between the transformer and capacitor is the rectifier that turns AC into DC. With the radio unplugged, disconnect the two yellow wires that come from the transformer and go to the rectifier. Tape them so they don't touch anything or each other and plug the radio back in. See if you still have 25v on the chassis.
Have a look underneath the chassis, like below the power transformer. Eyeball the power cord where it enters the chassis. The small circuit board where it connects will often become an accidental surge arrestor.
What you're looking for is one of the four disc capacitors with visible damage.
Or a big, black scorch mark on the chassis surface.
This does lead me to wonder if your radio has only a 2-wire cord? That's part of the problem, if so. The third prong serves to safely carry any leakage current from the 120-Volt line to ground, and prevent dangerous voltages building up on the radio's exposed metal surfaces.
What to do next depends on how severe any damage turns out to be.
73
What you're looking for is one of the four disc capacitors with visible damage.
Or a big, black scorch mark on the chassis surface.
This does lead me to wonder if your radio has only a 2-wire cord? That's part of the problem, if so. The third prong serves to safely carry any leakage current from the 120-Volt line to ground, and prevent dangerous voltages building up on the radio's exposed metal surfaces.
What to do next depends on how severe any damage turns out to be.
73
I see a 2-wire line cord. No protective ground connection to the wall outlet's third prong.
Of the four ceramic-disc caps on the line-filter circuit board where the line cord is connected, one of them is visibly different from the other three. If that one has a higher capacitance than the one it replaced, this becomes a shock hazard. Can't read its markings, but I would guess it got smacked by a voltage surge and got replaced. The other three are suspect until you check them for leakage resistance. The surge that damaged one cap could easily compromise one or more of the remaining three.
Pretty sure your shock hazard is on that board.
And you really should upgrade the power cord to a 3-prong.
73
Of the four ceramic-disc caps on the line-filter circuit board where the line cord is connected, one of them is visibly different from the other three. If that one has a higher capacitance than the one it replaced, this becomes a shock hazard. Can't read its markings, but I would guess it got smacked by a voltage surge and got replaced. The other three are suspect until you check them for leakage resistance. The surge that damaged one cap could easily compromise one or more of the remaining three.
Pretty sure your shock hazard is on that board.
And you really should upgrade the power cord to a 3-prong.
73
I was wondering why it didn't have a ground on the plug. I guess it didn't come with one.
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I think I found something. The schematic says it should be a .001 125v. The one on the board says CM .01M Z5U 1KV and the board looks burnt. I don't know the correct way to check it but it has 29 volts on one side and nothing on the other. I ohm'd it out and got no continuity.
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Nomad is right, don't bother disconnecting the rectifier. I had a Paco g-30 sig gen zap me the same way. The caps are supposed to keep RF out of the mains but without that ground wire, the capacitors form a voltage divider putting a voltage on the chassis proportional to the divider ratio (with respect to other grounded objects). Even if the capacitors were matched, that's half the primary voltage on the chassis. The reactance at 60Hz limits the current, which is why you are still alive, but if they are damaged or mismatched, that's not good. Add a cord with a ground and put the right value cap in there.
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