well there is probably a couple of electrolytics involved in the voltage source going to the channel switch, im sure you can trace it back from the switch using the schematic.
as for the channel switch, i cant say for 100%, but my guess would be that they are not the same.
However! years ago i was given some sage advice by a tech who designed channel mods, that the channel switch can indeed be cleaned, and returned to a pretty much "like new" state.
its not that difficult, but if you arent extremely careful about how you take it apart and put it back together, it wont work at all. (then you'll have to take apart another one to see how it was supposed to go back together LOL)
first, unsolder the switch from the PC board.
once you have it loose, look at the metal plate on the back.
you will see four small white plastic "nubs" that hold the plate, and all of the innards in place.
this is the most important part of the process. you need to cut off all the edges, so that you can slide the metal plate off the back, BUT!!!
you MUST leave the middle of the "nub" intact.
the reason for this is that when you put the switch back together, you will need to melt these nubs down to hold the metal plate in place again.
i use an X-acto knife to cut around the edges until i can just pop that plate off.
just be careful and aware of what you are doing and you'll be fine.
next step is to start sliding the plastic sections backwards off of the shaft.
you will notice that the shaft has two flat sides and two rounded sides.
i like to put the flat sides toward each side of the switch.
you must make sure not to turn the shaft as you are taking the switch apart.
once you slide the first section out, you will see that it has little prongs that will line up with the plastic disc that you have just made visible.
those prongs need to be cleaned with contact cleaner, and i like to bend them out just a bit to make sure they are making good contact with the disc.
now lay that first section down and make sure you orient it in such a way that you can lay out each successive piece in order and in the same position.
this way you will know how it all goes back together.
now you can slide the first disc off. you will have to wiggle it off as it sits pretty tightly.
be careful not to turn the shaft as you do this.
now clean the disc and lay it down so you will know which way it goes back in.
now slide of the next plastic piece, and clean and bend its prongs.
then the next disc, then the next plastic piece, and so on...
you will see that each disc gets sandwiched between two of the plastic pieces. it all makes more sense when you are looking at it.
DO NOT remove the shaft, as there is a little ball bearing that is under spring tension that will fly off into no man's land. (trust me, you'll never find it again)
after all the pieces are cleaned, just slide them back on the shaft EXACTLY the way they came off.
now put the metal plate back in place and devise your method of melting the white plastic pieces in order to hold it all together.
(i like to heat up the head of a finishing nail and press it against the nubs.
seems to work pretty well for me, although i have used the side of the shaft of a soldering iron before also)
thats it!
your channel switch will be good as new.
ive done quite a few of these over the years and it usually clears up the "ghosting digit" syndrome.
good luck,
LC
