497 final replacement

[hossless]

Howdy all, I have had trouble with my power dropping while keyed since I got the hr2600 from Doc at Doc's electronics. I believe it was a bad MRF497 from the get go. Other than that a simply AWSOME radio!

Just the other day the 497 final went completely out on me. $85 bucks for a replacement job by the local cb guy. I can get them for about $35 bucks plus shipping from RFParts.

If I attemp this myself, is it just basically a simple swap of the the 497, or is it more complicated than that?



Thanks, Hossless


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[hossless]

Howdy all, I have had trouble with my power dropping while keyed since I got the hr2600 from Doc at Doc's electronics. I believe it was a bad MRF497 from the get go. Other than that a simply AWSOME radio!

Just the other day the 497 final went completely out on me. $85 bucks for a replacement job by the local cb guy. I can get them for about $35 bucks plus shipping from RFParts.

If I attemp this myself, is it just basically a simple swap of the the 497, or is it more complicated than that?



Thanks, Hossless


</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

Hossless,



The replacement is very simple, just unscrew and unsolder and re-solder and re-screw.



I would suggest, adding an insulator between the final and the heatsink. Make sure to add a thin coating of heat sink compound to both sides of the insulator.



I have noticed on radios that the power drops off on the cure was to add the insulator. This will also fix the 'High SWR when the covers are on or removed' problem. You may notice a slight drop in output power by adding the insulator, but I would figure that the new reading is ACTUAL, without the 'RF ground loop' problems associated with not having the insulator.



Without the insualtor, Power ground and Chassi Ground meet at the tab of the final...with the insulator they are isolated as in the rest of the radio.



I hope this helps,

Roger




</p>

 

[Rogerbird1]

Hossless,



The replacement is very simple, just unscrew and unsolder and re-solder and re-screw.



I would suggest, adding an insulator between the final and the heatsink. Make sure to add a thin coating of heat sink compound to both sides of the insulator.



I have noticed on radios that the power drops off on the cure was to add the insulator. This will also fix the 'High SWR when the covers are on or removed' problem. You may notice a slight drop in output power by adding the insulator, but I would figure that the new reading is ACTUAL, without the 'RF ground loop' problems associated with not having the insulator.



Without the insualtor, Power ground and Chassi Ground meet at the tab of the final...with the insulator they are isolated as in the rest of the radio.



I hope this helps,

Roger




</p>

 

[hossless]

Thank You Sir, you answered my question. Now I can save around forty firve bucks!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT="">


</p>

 

[hossless]

Thank You Sir, you answered my question. Now I can save around forty firve bucks!<img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT="">


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