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8 Guage Fuse Holders...Looking For Options

Mudfoot

Mudfoot

Elmer
Jun 17, 2009
10,930
6,300
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Southeast Ohio
I am going to supply 12 volt power into my Cherokee. I will be using these battery terminals.

Platinum Gold Plated Car Battery Terminal Stereo 0 | 4 | 8 Gauge Inputs Outputs | eBay

I bought an identical terminal like this at a hamfest a couple years ago, as I admired the quality and recently installed it. I just ordered a second one from Ebay today.

My plan is to run 8 guage wire from the battery thru the firewall and terminate to a simple distribution box attached near my passenger side shifter column. I will use this to power my 2950 or maybe my Optima. I might put an amp in one as well, Nothing huge.

A local car audio store has some nice armored 8 guage wire that I will be using.

Anyways, my question is...

I want to fuse both wires near the battery. There seem to be many different types of heavy duty fuse holders. I want one that will withstand engine environment, easy to solder and seal. I'd like the holder to have the best fuse type and be able to change different fuses easily to switch between low current and possible higher current down the road.

Anyways, looking for the fuse some fuse holder input for 8 guage wire.

1. Battery:
photobucket-1909-1337380815727.jpg


2. Firewall Entrance:
photobucket-4420-1337380834555.jpg


3. Location For Power Terminal:
photobucket-1574-1337380936427.jpg


I want the terminal to mount on the side of the shift panel as far forward as possible.
 

I've had one of these in my silverado for over 10 years with an 80 amp fuse and have nothing negative to say about it.

sku_67500_1.jpg


I used an 18" piece of 4 gauge from the "jump start post" to the fuse holder mounted on the master fuse box beside the battery.
From there a 4 gauge runs through an electrical weatherproof connector at the firewall, under the carpet, under the floor trim, to the rear and into a distribution block.
Another distribution block gets ground from a rear seatbelt bolt.

The whole thing has been through several competition stereo installs as well as my rolling base station.

If you have the slightest thought that you may install some other goodies, I would suggest using a run of 4 gauge through a fuse, to a convenient place in the cab, another fuse and finally a distribution block.
That way you'll be ready and won't have to pull and fuse more wire ;)

As for fusing both wires (positive and negative), some people will say that you will create a ground loop and it is better to get a chassis ground close to the equipment.
I can't say that myself as I have ran both ways and never had a problem either way.


Edit:
You mention soldering. The above fuse holder uses an allen set screw. Just tin the end of the wire so that the screw has something to "bite" and doesn't just sink into the wire.
 
Yes there are different amperage ratings, I'm not sure if you will find a 10A though.
I have seen 30A and up.
These aren't your normal sized glass fuses, these things are almost 1/2" diameter.
Oh, and just in case you like tiny little LEDs, I have seen two different types with LEDs.
One is lit when the fuse is good and the other is lit when the fuse is blown.
 
QROdx said:
Yes there are different amperage ratings, I'm not sure if you will find a 10A though.
I have seen 30A and up.
These aren't your normal sized glass fuses, these things are almost 1/2" diameter.
Oh, and just in case you like tiny little LEDs, I have seen two different types with LEDs.
One is lit when the fuse is good and the other is lit when the fuse is blown.
Click to expand...

I thought that fuse looked like the one that came with my 2970N2. I didn't think it would hold a smaller glass fuse. I may have to look at a blade fuse holder.
 
there are a lot of offerings for blade fuse holders as well as fuses up over 100A.
I've just never cared to use them.
I know it probably doesn't matter one bit but I like the whole waterproof design of the one above.

There's a lot of different stuff out there that will suit your needs, check out crutchfield.com or some car audio site for some ideas, then hit your local audio shop or amazon/ebay
 
That's the problem...there are so many new items that I've never seen before. Plus. if you have my OCD, it makes things worse. I just need to read and surf more.
 
In most of the installations I've used large welding cable for the primary power line to an interior power distribution block. That was over-kill, but I could have powered anything I could have gotten into the vehicle. My present car is definitely different from those and a #8 wire will handle power for the length of run that I have.
Fusing at the battery is definitely a good idea. It prevents potential problems if that primary power line shorts. The fuse(s) for that should be slightly lower than the currrent carrying ability of the size of wire used for that primary power line, that just makes sense.
I've found that the 'blade' type fuses are more common than the other types, so are easier to find/replace. Are they the best you can use? Beats me, but they are certainly adequate if their size is chosen correctly. How about weather proofing? Yeah, do it if you can. No suggestions of what kind/brand, depends on what do you have available.
Have -safe- fun.
- 'Doc
 
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Well,

I just ran some 10 guage wire that I had, and used some 15 amp micro blade fuses at the battery. I am using this temporary until I can track down what I need to run some 8 guage wire.

This will run my stock 2950 and my Optima, which will likely be installed tomorrow.
 
Last edited:
m42duster said:
I thought that fuse looked like the one that came with my 2970N2. I didn't think it would hold a smaller glass fuse. I may have to look at a blade fuse holder.
Click to expand...


I think 60 amp fuses are the biggest the AGC fuse holder can use. If you want bigger go with a ANL fuse holder. Fleabay is overrun with fuseholders in the car audio section.
 
I used some Scoshe stuff on mine. I bought a car amp kit that came with the hookup to the battery, pos and neg fuses right off the battery, and a couple of power distribution blocks to run everything off of inside the cab. It's been in there for about 5 years with no issues.

73,
RT307
 

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