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Mobile Aluminum Travel Trailer Roof Antenna

Slowmover

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Feb 17, 2015
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Where the West Begins.
Here’s a job I’ve put off a while: 1990 35’ SILVER STREAK Sterling Travel Trailer and a competent Eleven-Meter Radio for stationary use.

Part One: It may be I can get underneath the exterior-skin from the interior (double-hull; inner & outer aluminum skin) without cutting at random by removing a flush-mount ceiling fixture. Depending on what I can inspect from there would be which direction from that fixture to cut a hole.

Coax would snake down the interior wall space — hopefully no horizontal crossmember problems I can’t access & remedy from near the floor — and enter cabin behind couch to then turn forward to Radio & Power Center.

Thinking I may use the BREEDLOVE puck mount originally bought for the Dodge. A lay-over with a riser to mount a 102” whip. (I use a telescoping ladder to get on/off roof).

8A07A7D4-8916-40EA-ACDE-4EE6FEB6DD61.jpeg

Looking over my stores, I have the sealant to use for aluminum (silicone is verboten), so the relatively minimal opening to make I’m assured of “no leak”. Given location found I don’t foresee problems in getting an antenna mount placed.

There’s a center to this forward area where distance to bow + starboard + port vertical walls would be close to the same. The rearward ten feet features a roof vent which opens via tilt. The antenna could lay across it for travel without affecting its operation (pad + hook).


Part Two: Is the rest of the installation for which I see no reason to start a second thread.

Specifically, how to set power. RVs have an unusual electrical system in that they’ll run many demand-items on either 12V (deep cycle pair) or 120V from shore power.

A PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS 45A converter was an early change I made after purchase. It’s mounted forward under the 12/120 breaker panel and initial thought is that I’d run power from the deep-cycle pair to the radio/amp combo.

On a vertical rise of three feet with a one foot offset are the breaker panel, and converter under false cabinetry atop which will be Radio/Amp. Run to BATT pair is forward a few feet to the trailer tongue.

Don’t know yet if this is a good idea. I may need to use a separate power supply and run a dedicated power cord separate from the trailer wiring altogether (My trailer is set for 30A service).

I may try what I figure will be The Trailer Radio (Galaxy DX-99v2) by itself or with an RM ITALY KL-203. I’d prefer to use the KL-7505v (30A fuse), but that may be pushing against luck with the current components.

I need to re-read the AIRFORUMS, “Ham Radio in an A/S”, thread and associated to get a better idea about best practice for power, generally. QRZ and wherever else. (Suggestions?)

I’ve ideas for an antenna farm on the roof and a variety of radio types. Other antennas separate from the vehicle are likeliest for big boy stuff.

A 75A power supply with dedicated shore-power wiring is a separate set of problems I’ll not address at present. Bigger radios and amps stuff.

Thus:

1). An AM/SSB rig with some fire in the wire to a quarter-wave vertical whip is the thing for now.

2). Q first up is power via deep cycle trailer batteries where a 45A converter is present to keep them charged up. Limitations? Good idea or bad?

Your experience and advice is hereby solicited. Thanks


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Part One post:

If this don’t beat all. A lightweight fluorescent fixture in the ceiling (one of four identical extending over trailer length) has a welded aluminum bracing enclosure. Ha!

Now, THAT I didn’t expect.

27A23BB7-1EB0-433B-808D-5C0F9DBA1F2C.jpeg

The BMS puck will just fit inside that opening.

The investigation on the exterior (roof) will wait for a cool morning to get some bearings and more easily find ribs so’s I know where to drill from interior to run coax with a take-off done.

Buy a premium trailer and you aren’t finding Airstream wood bulk supports (rotted after 30-years).

I’d imagine I can come up with an aesthetic substitute for the lamp fixture. Running LED replacement fluorescent lamps — as that fixture contained — next to the antenna base ain’t gonna happen.

Guess I’ll need a fixture like this. Minimal glow with maximal shielding. Hung from the ceiling, not flush.

00343B32-005B-454D-A33A-6D5B0E91CEC9.jpeg

So, back to assembling radio bracket, fuse panel, wiring, etc. Ha!

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Sil
Just bought a second-hand 6300f150 with the intent to put it in my 5th wheel, gonna have to follow.......

Btw, wtf is the big deal about not using silicone on an rv ?

Peace


Silicone = acetic acid, IIRC. Would have to go back and look it up. Bad juju with aluminum (anodized 5005 in this case). Airstream-specific suppliers have the range of sealants available (factory; Vintage Trailer Supply; Outdoors Mart; etc).

Not many aluminum-structured & skinned 5’ers were ever built. SILVER STREAK built a bare handful, and AVION maybe a few hundred. I think there was also a few AIRSTREAM Argosy built. This would’ve been circa 1987-1995.

Is your 5’er metal-skinned? Structure is wood-framed? That’s going to be more like installing an antenna atop a house, isn’t it? (lightning protection needed?)

Mine is such that DC Ground is like unto a car where the whole of body & frame are metal (steel chassis). I expect to have open the belly pan front & rear to install RF Bonds across the isolators between steel stringers and aluminum wall ribs as insurance. (Hopefully only a few).

Truth is I’m in uncharted waters as this trailer IS NOT a riveted creation, it has enormous panels glued together like modern aircraft. What rivets exist are in the chicago-crimped roof seams. (Airstreams leak. So do Avions. Both need annual inspection & re-seal. Silver Streaks don’t except every ten years inspection past appliance & plumbing penetrations).

So my “ground” — so to speak — will be as much or more the aluminum structure as the skin itself.


Re Part Two stuff:

Memory being what it is, I’ll have to go re-read the electrical engineer HAMS on AIR where they like to accuse each other of being off-frequency and chase Clarifier settings re understanding RV electrical. (I’m tentative at present, but an under 20A draw ought to be okay, I’m thinking.)


Since the last post I’ve been looking at the 6x6 backing plate accompanied the puck mount. I’ll have to measure and figure, but I may be able to do some inletting on that welded enclosure to fit to both the longitudinal sides between skin and that rib-scrap welded to frame this opening. A nice tight fit where the heavy puck mount isn’t ONLY supported by the skin, but that the plate is wedged INTO the bracing.

Besides (maybe) fitting an Alpha MOTO 6-40 to this mount no larger (wind load) antenna is expected. As the antenna will only be upright when parked long-term, I “think” I’ll be okay with this in extra high winds.

Also realized I can get about (3’) of Thermold flat electrical conduit to run the coax forward on the interior side into the overhead cabinetry. And then another short run to the radio mount after securing it to the interior rear and run down the port-side wall. (The hell with that first post idea).

I’m feeling better about this as it starts to come together as a plan.

Galaxy on a swivel-base radio mount (wood reinforcement on cabinet underside) and KL-203 plus a KES-5 atop the radio to keep things compact. E-Z to remove and store once on the road.

Power to/from BATT is under 8’ each way. I can cut the NEG a little shorter to use the frame-mounted NEG lug the power panel ties with.

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Well, I’ve kinda run around all over the place and nothing new quite grabbed my attention except cautions. The ones that tell you this plan is (potentially) going to be noise-plagued. Which I’m going to consider as challenge versus closed-road.

Location Related:

A) Too near circuit-breaker panel (affects radio plus antenna coax).

B) RV electrical service entrance is at the other end of the trailer (where earlier models had panel plus converter); these, the extra run past the vehicle entrance is easily 31’ of heavy gauge 30A line coward to port bow. Just below desired radio rack. That’s a big antenna.

C). C-B Panel may introduce noise and Converter may/may not do the same.

D). Coax would run partly parallels roof-run 12V for lighting. (Skin separated).

E). While 75-100W may/may not introduce RF problems on TX; 250W is likelier.

F). I’m not a TV owner (lifelong), but the system aboard the TT (travel trailer) is complete and in working order. I need to rebuild the crank-up antenna plus R&R coax run to make new. Test pre-amp and replace if required.

— The TV antenna is NEXT TO the proposed CB antenna location. Maybe two feet once things are finalized. (Stays in down position).

G). The stereo AM/FM antenna is forward of that antenna pair on the port bow. Current radio unit not working, but it’ll get replaced. The antenna itself is a quality (undamaged) side-mount telescoping unit.

H). The Uniden weather radio unit is on the starboard-side, a good distance from the TX, etc. Glass-mount antenna.

I). Forward of the W-R is The Campground Radio a re-furbed ROBYN from the late 1970s (and substitute U-PC76 circa 1997). Glass-mount antenna also.

— The MIDLAND thru-glass antennas don’t extend above the glass for awning roll-out clearance.

So, the area is already busy.

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Alternatives:

1. To alleviate (A) would be to locate the radio stack elsewhere. Rely upon a 120V Power Supply.

— Two choices are possible.

a). One is to re-locate to the dinette. (Starboard-side, about 15’ back). Another flush -mount light fixture identical to the first is easily accessed.

b). Second is in repairing to the aft (stern) bedroom altogether. Island queen bed. As with the first two choices, cabinetry and ceiling light fixtures make for the same ease with puck mount & coax run.

— Both locations would require NEW power cords to be installed and run thru trailer bottom as a second line to the RV Park 120/240V pedestal. I’m not willing to run high amperage thru household circuits in an RV and would recommend against anyone attempting same.

— Items in an RV with high electrical demand are on their own circuits. Follow suit, I say.

2). In these alternatives the CB antenna is better removed from other noise sources, and itself being a problem to other devices.

3). Downside is that those locations don’t fit the desire to sit in the usual places in the forward lounge and yakkety-yak.

— Dinette is where I’ve thought to install an HF/All Mode base station. The overhead cabinetry and table-top make for a working space. Believe I might have coax and power to Radio on long enough leads to — when done— simply place it back into the overhead. (Coax would enter roof thru refrigerator vent just aft). A layover Tarheel mount is the ideal assuming yet “more” radio is contemplated.

In short, the Dinette location is already reserved.

— Bedroom: I suppose I could use a Uniden or President with wireless mic to wander around wherever. But (like most of you) the radio face present front & center is part of the necessary illusion. Fiddle with this, and apply some English to faddle that.

How’m I gonna win the old fart Clarifier foot race round & round on Sideband, huh?

So as of tonight, forward lounge device problems, here we come.

Meaning,
looks like prototyping and hex-perimenting gonna commence before permanent changes made.

.
 
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Gone back and forth over it.

Forward lounge gets the nod.

So, today am bolting & gluing metal rack together to hold the radio + amp.

— Found a good overhead spot for the external speaker.

— Filling a nylon bag with supplies I need and already own. Mainly, power-related.

— Have a section of “shelf” (stained cabinet grade) previous owner left and I saved. To go in from underneath once cut to fit (glued). Will use the remainder atop the cabinet; thru-bolted, thus three layers. Rack to mount on it.

— Rack is such that I can remove radio stack and leave base in place.

— Wiring conduit and coax need purchase. Better fuses.

If I have lists readied and gear ready to install prior to hitting the road, the first stage is done.

Here are some contemporary sales brochure pics to illustrate:

Silver Streak Sterling

1). A 29’ shown. (Mines 35’ but otherwise same. Antenna will be where — on this shorter TT — you can see a roof vent raised. 9’ SS whip).

2). Forward lounge. (Radio on window cabinet shelf next to sleeper sofa).

3). From bow towards stern. Dinette shown. (Cabinet overhead for ft450d Yaesu someday; coax out reefer wall). Bedroom farthest. (Note flush light fixture in ceiling; forward one is to be for antenna backplate).

FBBE85E8-22AB-4657-885F-3BEA6B2D446C.jpeg 0D70A17B-114A-4B32-8590-074660AD0294.jpeg 825406E4-94FE-439F-A683-36C43F9CEA31.jpeg

The big bow window drives some considerations. Very neat set of cables to disappear straight down into cabinet. Radio Rack may get some sort of aesthetic treatment, maybe stained wood (quarter-sawn oak) in a complementary shape. Backplate. As if factory had done it.

At campgrounds this is a view those walking past have of and into your rig. One normally waves, etc. ”Friendly”, is the byword. Relaxed.

There’ll be the normal set of books kept there towards centerline. Radio seen as addition to existing. Not hidden so much as minimized.

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Travel Trailers are always in short supply of more. Especially counter-surfaces. Thus, a mobile swivel rack. But what amp/radio. So, a large-case AM/SSB Radio with three amp choices.

Advertised Spec:

1). RM Italy KL-7405v
20A fused, 5W Input, 120W Rated (AM)

2). RM Italy KL-7505v
30A fused, 5W Input, 225W Rated (AM)

3). RM Italy KL-203
12A fused, .5-10W Input, 100W Rated (AM)


FDAC397E-DA85-4B31-B2C5-21512F9F4011.jpeg

In the event you hadn’t seen a size comparison. (Obviously, add to scale shown for coax + power strain relief clearance at rear).

The DX-99v2 radio is between these in length.

So, with first the KL-203 mounted in a small footprint swivel radio rack, and second with the KL-7405 which also “centers” pretty easily in the rack bottom, either needs no additional fabrication (ideally, bigger amp above radio; use spacer). The 7505v would need additional support, thus one loses the compact nature and two-plane swivel-capable aspect.

F41EFBFB-9B5F-4AE6-A8DB-131C6C21031A.jpeg BF5156EE-1D72-4934-931E-ECF6D101500D.jpeg

I’m pleased with the centered, balanced stability of the rack as shown. Not naturally off-balance. Other choices involve separate amp location, etc. Can’t then remove Radio Rig as a single-unit.

A narrower radio is the alternative. Adapt a different rack to swivel base. But only the KL-203 then fits easily. Have to fab up support for 7405.

WOOD CASE COVER: Think of radio rig as the fireplace where a wood slip case is a mantel with surrounds (open-front with finished top and sides and a partial back) just drops down over the whole. Enough clearance where Radio Rig can be swiveled somewhat (probable 2/3-depth of rig, first guess).

— From first a seated position. Or, remove “case” and swivel to face trailer interior or even opposite wall (replace case). Rack base remains bolted in place.

— Though this is a fairly tall cube, the Radio Rig has coherence with the rest of the living area. The same way televisions were once wood-cased. Using other racks or cases just take up more room than I want to allot (for this rig).

Meters and other ephemera can sit in front of the base on the cabinet shelf.

The above is good enough for a start. Other radios or amps are not ruled out. A clean factory-complementary installation is the desire.

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A Part Two Note (Power):

Leaving aside “noise” as a factor for this note, the reports I’ve found on PROGRESSIVE DYNAMICS PD9145 (Charge Wizard installed) is that 45A should provide the momentary headroom assuming the KL-203 is used (and maybe the KL-7405v); that these units — though not marketed for ham radio — are decent enough to get by in overall performance. Mine runs the trailer batteries (T-106).

Assumptions for this thread include that I am connected to shore power for operation.

I expect that a future power supply marketed to the ham radio crowd will be installed, but probably not with the Radio Rack as shown above. I have options to install it underneath the cabinet shelf (outside access door).

Re “noise”, everything will be in mock-up until what noise problems can be identified and treated reveals this location okay . . hopefully not terrible.

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Something I haven’t mentioned — but plays into how this install is planned — is that in most states of our Union it is not legal for passengers to occupy the trailer while underway.

Nevertheless, never say never.

While I’m happy with the stability of the rack shown above, vendor BELLS CB recommends replacing the wing-nut style machine screws with more substantial locking fasteners. The normal use of the rack (several sizes plus universal kits) is as a mobile installation.

The rack will be thru-bolted on the cabinet shelf and the support underneath will be substantial to the point that paved road travel is possible.

This note is to inform, that: travel trailers are not simply uncomfortable to travel within, you’ll be on the horn telling the driver to SLOW DOWN! Even the best road performing trailer (Airstream) is unnerving to ride within.

So let’s call it necessary on a day cell service is kaput and other two-way not available. This radio rack needs an installation up to that job where — with a shorter antenna installed — vehicle-to-vehicle comms are assured.

My pictures above don’t show that the back of the base has metal folded over to accept bolts thru a vertical brace.

A). Bolts horizontal thru vertical back-brace not shown.
B). Bolts vertical thru horizontal feet as shown.

My plan is to store away the Radio Rig for travel.
Until a day I can’t.

1). Then I swap radio rack wing-bolts for longer locking type.
2). Disable amp.
3). Re-check power draw from tow vehicle is good.
4). Install 4’ antenna on spring (13’ clearance).
5). (I plan to already have a mobile mic on a GearKeeper as standard).

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In my opinion, since its a trailer and you are only going to operate in there when its parked. I wouldn't waste my time, blood sweat and tears trying to puck mount something. I would mount a half wave vertical on the back on a push up/tilt over mast system. Tilts over and Lay's flat on the roof for safe travels and when you park, tilt it up, push it up and drop the hammer. Plus it will keep the need for amplifiers down. 100w, your golden
 
In my opinion, since its a trailer and you are only going to operate in there when its parked. I wouldn't waste my time, blood sweat and tears trying to puck mount something. I would mount a half wave vertical on the back on a push up/tilt over mast system. Tilts over and Lay's flat on the roof for safe travels and when you park, tilt it up, push it up and drop the hammer. Plus it will keep the need for amplifiers down. 100w, your golden


Yours is the type of response I’ve hoped to get. Thx!
I’m willing to explore what’s best.

Half-Wave Vertical

An IMAX 2000? (Low price is not a limit).

On a Tar-Heel (other design type)? There’s no roof access ladder for which to mount and I’ve no interest in anything doesn’t utilize this half-acre of anodized to best effect.

OAL with 18’ on 9’ TT roof is 27’ +/-


1). There are those campsites where that TTL height might be a problem both to use and to deploy (trees).

2). There are some parks where restrictions on antennas exist (a vertical isn’t going to attract huge attention; plus no guy wires, coax or RF burns from ground-mount tripod).

3). 18’ is a little more than one-half the TT length, and the roof is several feet shorter (flat portion, not radiused edges), so the lay-over device would mount alongside the A/C, maybe closer to the bow. Ballpark guess is a coax length of 30’. Unlatch and tilt/raise.

— This contemplates antenna at full length stored + raised. What other options —if any — am I ignorant about? I’ve no obstructions to this.

4). Coax can exit roof from almost anywhere given the use of a marine cable gland for weather-tightness. I could use the refrigerator vent for this and for the future HF/All Mode Radio where that separate layover with a screwdriver could be on the starboard side of the A/C unit (relative; might not actually be athwart).

I’m open to the idea. But have zero experience with the antenna type (have read around on type, but hadn’t considered it for this application).

— Let’s leave aside for now the park rules compliance problem (potential), and talk brand, model, wind load and other considerations, ANY & ALL kind enough to offer speculation and experience.

I know there’s already experience I haven’t recorded as to particulars of attaching a stainless mount to aluminum (Airstream ham operators) so that is sidelined as an issue for now. Several of the motorized L&L Tarheel mounts are out there.

ON A STOUT MANUAL LAYOVER . . . . ?

85E667E0-0A0F-4227-A0D2-A2076EA5E535.jpeg

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Jo Gunn Super Sinner RV Antenna

5’ W x 6’ L (IIRC)

I’ve never ruled this one out, FWIW. More than one antenna isn’t a restriction. Can mount at far rear of trailer on open real estate.

Just never found any blazing hot recommendations for it. (How well it performs versus other types).

Maybe it’s not “serious” (I get that), but it is applicable per designs’ clearance whether mobile or stationary.

(See threads on same by brand name and on DDRR design antennas).

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Silicone = acetic acid, IIRC. Would have to go back and look it up. Bad juju with aluminum (anodized 5005 in this case). Airstream-specific suppliers have the range of sealants available (factory; Vintage Trailer Supply; Outdoors Mart


Polyurethane sealant was what we used in the marine industry in my boat building days.
3M marine adhesive was used extensively in aluminium boats like the 26 foot Dive Master and other Bayrunner boats.
I don't recall using any silicone sealants, I think they were all polyurethane based.

73
Jeff
 
Polyurethane sealant was what we used in the marine industry in my boat building days.
3M marine adhesive was used extensively in aluminium boats like the 26 foot Dive Master and other Bayrunner boats.
I don't recall using any silicone sealants, I think they were all polyurethane based.

73
Jeff


You are correct. I’ve a few tubes of SIKAFLEX around here, just can’t recall the # designation. (Edit: I’ve got 221 & 715).

GP sealants for conventional composite-body trailers & Moho are of a different base stock & formula. I don’t know if restrictions apply to those (never owned one) as they do with Aluminum.

1A2DE05E-7BF2-4E20-BD21-0CC081D138D1.jpeg
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