There are a couple of other threads about this radio, and I've posted in at least one of them. But I guess I'll start a new one.
The primary reason for this thread is to report that I bought the programming cable, downloaded the free software, and it works. I put it on an old laptop running XP that I use for programming commercial VHF/UHF radios. Had to connect it to the Internet for a few minutes so it could find and load the driver for the cable. Once I did that it was smooth sailing.
It will accept up to 60 channels per bank. I put 28 MHz frequencies in Bank E for 10M SSB, CW and beacon frequencies. Bank F got 29 MHz freqs for AM, FM simplex, and FM repeater pairs.
D remains CB, but I added some frequencies above the 40 US CB channels. You know, for listening.
Anyway, the bottom line is that this does indeed work so that I have the full 10M band and all the 11M stuff without needing to do the power up sequence to switch between them. And, repeater offsets to boot.
I'll probably add a universal CTCSS tone board so I can get into the 10M repeaters.
I'm liking it. Contrary to popular opinion by some who don't own one, this is a real ham radio.
Now I'm thinking about internally adjusting the output power. Specifically, turning the AM and FM carriers down to perhaps 5 watts with the front-panel control set to full. That is both to protect the finals in this Southern summer heat, and to protect a low-input amplifier. Thoughts?
The primary reason for this thread is to report that I bought the programming cable, downloaded the free software, and it works. I put it on an old laptop running XP that I use for programming commercial VHF/UHF radios. Had to connect it to the Internet for a few minutes so it could find and load the driver for the cable. Once I did that it was smooth sailing.
It will accept up to 60 channels per bank. I put 28 MHz frequencies in Bank E for 10M SSB, CW and beacon frequencies. Bank F got 29 MHz freqs for AM, FM simplex, and FM repeater pairs.
D remains CB, but I added some frequencies above the 40 US CB channels. You know, for listening.
Anyway, the bottom line is that this does indeed work so that I have the full 10M band and all the 11M stuff without needing to do the power up sequence to switch between them. And, repeater offsets to boot.
I'll probably add a universal CTCSS tone board so I can get into the 10M repeaters.
I'm liking it. Contrary to popular opinion by some who don't own one, this is a real ham radio.
Now I'm thinking about internally adjusting the output power. Specifically, turning the AM and FM carriers down to perhaps 5 watts with the front-panel control set to full. That is both to protect the finals in this Southern summer heat, and to protect a low-input amplifier. Thoughts?
