• You can now help support WorldwideDX when you shop on Amazon at no additional cost to you! Simply follow this Shop on Amazon link first and a portion of any purchase is sent to WorldwideDX to help with site costs.

Cobra 142 gtl meter light upgrade?

Turbogus

Member
Oct 17, 2010
31
0
16
62
I've got this classic Cobra 142 GTL,
5090917602_5b699f4f7a.jpg
what with the A 99 on the roof of the building and a modest brick this radio gets out well. Looking over EBay the other day I noticed a guy selling LED's for meters and such. I thought this a brilliant (pardon the pun) idea. So went down to the Rat Shack and purchased a couple of 5mm white LEDs Cat no. 276-0320. Verified polarity then soldered in, trouble was they lit only for a short while. I'm thinking these 3.6 volt LEDs are under rated for that circuit. Any ideas?
Thanks and a lift of the lynch lid!

Gus
 

Just go through ur junk box subbing resistors in circuit and measure with the voltmeter to be sure the led is getting less than 3.6 volts. Thats what i do anyway. The other day i desoldered the glass from a bulb and put in a led and resistor instead. It was a complete waste of time but at least it was something to do
 
Im on a mobile so i cant sketch any diagrams but just cut the wires of the old meter bulb and hook one wire to a daisy chain of resistors and then to one probe of the VOM. hook the other probe to the other wire and if it gives a negative reading swap the probes around. It's not that difficult keep trying combinations and you'll figure it out. If u want to try the led's out of circuit u need a pair of AA batteries in series. Just open the back of a tv remote and run 2 wires to the end of the pair. There is a nice website i think called ladyada.net that does a beginners tutorial to led's and resistors and microcontrollers if ur really intrested
 
If your light supply is 12v you'll need a 420 ohm drop resistor for that Rat Shack LED to keep from burning them out. At $5.49 a pop that's an expensive way to learn. You can buy 12v LED's in any color on eBay for about a dollar each...no resistor required.
 
I think loosecannon advised ages ago to use a string of diodes to drive led's also. Each diode gives a drop of 0.6 volts so u would need 14 in series to drive that at 12 volts
 
i dont think it was me about the diode thing, but i guess it would work.


there is a bit more to it than just replacing the lamps with LEDs.
its always a good idea to look at the schematic first.
here is a link:

http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/cobra/142gtl/graphics/cobra_142gtl_main_sch_a_size.pdf

look in the lower left hand corner just above the antenna socket (labeled ANT).

you will see the two meter lamp symbols. you will notice that they are wired in parallel, which means that one wire of each lamp goes to the 13.8 volts, and one wire from each lamp goes to ground.

you will also notice that the wires that go to the 13.8 volt source go through a resistor R162. instead of trying to account for this 22 ohm resistor in figuring your LED voltage, its easier just to replace it with a jumper wire.


sometimes ill just find my own voltage and ground points and just heat shrink the stock wires.


for now lets do it using the stock lamp wiring.

ok, first step, cut the wires to remove the old lamp. finish one lamp before you start the other. (they are all the same color usually)
cut it within a 1/2 inch or so of the lamps to make sure you have enough length left. (usually there is plenty extra)

be sure to carefully remove the rubber holders from the lamps, as you will need to use them again. if you ruin them, you will have to devise your own mounting system, and that can get "hacky". LOL

now strip off just enough insulation from one wire to allow you to touch a multimeter probe to it. (if you dont have a voltmeter you will have to trace the wires back to their sources, one will go to ground, and one will go to R162. the one that goes to R162 is your positive wire)

ok, with the radio on, (be careful not to let the wire touch the chassis or the board) touch the negative lead of the voltmeter (set to read DC volts) to any of the metal tuning cans you see on the board. they are all grounded to PC board ground.

touch the positive lead of the voltmeter to the wire you just stripped.
you will either get a reading of somewhere around 13-14 volts, or you will get no reading at all.
label the wire accordingly. (the no-reading wire is negative)

time to turn the radio off and unplug it from the wall.

now that you know which wire is positive, and you have placed a jumper across R162; you need to make sure that the negative wire is actually connected directly to PC board ground, and not through any other components. (its different on different radios)

if you are not sure, just remove it from where its source was, and solder it to any convenient metal tuning can. you will notice that all of these metal cans have two tabs on them that, when soldered, secure them to the PC board.
all of these tabs are connected to the main PC board ground foil, and will make a fine place to solder your negative wire to.

ok, time to actually solder the new LED to the wires. BE SURE TO SLIDE THE RUBBER HOLDER ON FIRST!
you will need a 1/2 watt 560 ohm resistor for each LED. (its easier to just tell you the value instead of showing you how to figure it out for now)
the resistors need to be 1/2 watt, and no, 1/4 watt will not work. it would heat up.

looking at your LED, you will notice that one side has a flattened edge.
this is the negative side.
this is also the side where you will solder your resistor on.
i always put the resistor on the negative lead, and again, its just simpler to tell you to do it than to explain why.
ok, you have soldered the 560 ohm 1/2 watt resistor to the negative lead of the LED, and it looks nice and neat and shiny right?

slide some heat shrink tubing down over the negative wire, solder the negative wire to the other end of the resistor, and cover the connection with the heat shrink tubing. (shrink it with a cigarette lighter or whatever)

now slide some shrink tubing down over the positive wire and solder it to the positive lead of the LED. heat shrink the connection.
(never use electrical tape, again, its "hacky")

time to check your work by turning on the radio.
if all went well you should be looking at a nicely lit LED.
(white is my favorite color for the cobra style meters)

if you dont like the brightness, you can add or subract 100 ohms from the 560 value, but dont go crazy. less resistance is brighter.

before you decide that its too bright, try sanding or filing the face of the LED.
this will diffuse the light and it will illuminate the whole meter instead of just one "hot spot".

just repeat the whole process for the other lamp.


there ya go. yes, its seems like ive over complicated things, but once you do it, it will get easier.

i went into such detail because i want others to be able to benefit from this post in the future.

good luck,
LC
 
Thanks so very much for taking the time to post this! Step by step is just what I'm needin'

This is where I went wrong; (I guess I should've known by the sellers spelling error) :blink:

Cobra 1000, 2000 GtL X2 Meter lights, guarnteed best. | eBay
Could it be that actual 12v LED's don't need the resistor?

Then I went to the Rat Shack and the guy said these were 12v, only after the abortive install did I see these were 3.6v :oops:

Looking at the LED's Rat Shack sold me, both sides are flat, however one is shorter than the other.
 
Last edited:
never, ever trust a radio shack employee. unless your question has to do with cell phone contracts that is. LOL

the lights on ebay seem to be perfect.
the seller sounds like he knows what he's talking about, and his LEDs probably are 12 volt LEDs.

just follow his instructions and you should be fine.
no need to do the resistor thing and tracing the wires if he is right.
i think he is.

good luck with them,
LC
 
I just found out from another forum (although I like this one the best) that Rolling Radios has the 12v LEDs. Given my limited experience with circuitry (primarily automotive) I'm thinking this is a way to go.
Thanks so much for sharing your experience and knowledge. (y) LC
 
if you have him do the work, dont let him talk you into all the mods he'll want to offer you.
tell him this, "install the LEDs, do the 2999 receive mod, and align the radio."

ill bet you could do as good of a job on the LED install as he could.
just go slow, but the things required for the job, and just like when you havent welded anything for a while, do a few soldering practice runs.

hey jazzsinger, here is the one i like to use, i think its more fun! (y)

LED series parallel array wizard

LC
 
hey jazzsinger, here is the one i like to use, i think its more fun! (y)

LED series parallel array wizard

LC

yeah LC, no doubt there is plenty of others too, a nifty programme i found back a few years ago for helping beginners in electronics was electronic assistant.

Electronics 2000 - Hobby Electronics - Software, Calculators, Technical Data, Pin-outs, Beginners Guide, Forum, Links...

you can use all the individual calculators online from it or download it as a standalone programme (my preferred option) which is ideal if your in a situation with no net access, it runs great on xp, haven't tried it on any other o/s as i'm a dinosaur,lol,apparently its now upgraded to win 7 too.its only a 500kb exe file so hardly going to eat up your hdd.

it includes capacitance (ideal for those that can't get their heads round capacitor coding),resistance,inductance,power and frequency calculators and also led dropping resistance calculator.
 
I was undaunted to give this another try and got some 12v LED's w/resistors coming from Washington State, but will the jumper for R162 be required when using true with these? Since this is my first work on a PC board I may have to farm it out to a reputable shop if this is the case.
 
i would just replace the lamps with the LEDs as is, and see how you like the brightness.

if you want them a bit brighter, you just solder a small jumper across R162.
you dont have to remove the resistor to add the jumper.

just use a small flashlight to see what the traces going to R162 look like on the solder side of the PC board, and solder a small jumper wire (such as a component lead)across these two points.

this is the same as removing the resistor and replacing it with a jumper wire.
(electricity always takes the path of least resistance)

you will probably be happy with the way they look with R162 in place.
LC
 

dxChat
Help Users
  • No one is chatting at the moment.