TSB 1232 says the factory included this resistor/cap mod from serial number 83012001 and up. Says to me they caught this design booboo before the end of 1978, if that's really what the radio serial number's first digit '8' is supposed to indicate.
I misspoke when I said I had never seen this symptom. I pulled this derelict clock/counter module off the shelf to see if this mod was present. Not so as it turns out. Does say "Reads 32 MHz" on it. Not 33, but close. Might be the same fault causing it, maybe? Just forgot seeing it before this went onto the junk shelf.
Date codes visible on several chips say 1978.
This unit is old enough it did not have the added disc cap and two resistors shown in the TSB.The foil trace with the gap cut into it leads to IC512 pin 3 on the left of the cut. The right-hand side of the cut leads to IC507 pin 1. The suggested physical placement of the two resistors looks a bit clumsy. Since they connect to IC507 pin 1, I arranged them as seen. Not so clumsy and crowded looking as the drawing in the TSB.
Clearly a small disc capacitor is best to fit in this tiny space. Bought a batch of this blue monolithic ceramic cap at the Dayton Hamvention flea market. Used them in all sorts of stuff.
Fits across the gap perfectly. Now to recap this module. Don't know if that will fix it, but the idea is to have a working clock/counter module on hand for the next repair customer who needs one. Or it will turn out to have more gremlins than just the TSB and electrolytic caps. Only one way to find out.
My favorite method for caps on a small double-sided board like this has been to "walk" a capacitor out, melting the solder on one lead, and leaning it over. Doesn't pull that lead out all the way, but repeating this for the other lead usually gets it out altogether. One more touch of the iron tip the the first one releases the cap altogether. Leaves only solder in the two holes. I have traditionally used our Hakko FR300 to suck the solder and leave two empty holes for the new cap. One drawback. Some caps have a foil trace on only the top side of the board. The "solder" side lead has only a copper doughnut on that lead. Doughnuts want to just slide off and be gone. Tonight my idiot light came on I touched the iron tip to the solder-only pad and just slapped the module against the silicone bench pad. Popped out the solder leaving a clean, empty hole. And NO damage to the doughnut pad. Shoulda thought of that decades ago.
One exception seems to be C527. It filters the unregulated input from the power supply.
The brown circle is where the doughnut pad came away.
But this pad has top-side foil connected to the cathode of the power-input diode D530. C527's positive lead gets bent over and around the cathode lead of D530. We call this patch the "combover".
C525 is a 1uf cap at the front-right corner of the board. Has a doughnut pad under the negative lead. My preferred way to remedy this is to just stand it up enough to solder the top side foil directly.
There are other caps on this pc board with a doughnut pad on one lead. The combover trick works for those. Now to replace the rest of them and find a 'test' radio to try it in.
Yeah, I know his counter was already re-capped. Just couldn't resist. Now we'll find out if this fixes the "32 MHz" fault scribbled in sharpie on the side of mine. If not, maybe I'll get that fixed on this one. If so, that fix might help with the counter reading "33". The TC5032 is spectacularly tricky to troubleshoot with a 'scope. Hope that's not the root of his problem.
Film at 11.
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