Crimp PL-259

[secret squirrel]

Are crimp on PL-259 for rg8x and rg58u, rg8, rg213 ok if applied correctly? I had Veteran, Army, Air Force radio operators tell me that's all that was ever used was crimp connectors. I am asking because learning to solder well is on the to do list. the two local CB shops will not solder the shield on the reducer for rg 8x, claiming its not necessary. I have had coax from them go bad, at the connectors. Learning to solder worth anything is on my to do list for future. back when I installed my own rg6 for TV, I always used a hex type crimp connector with good success, just stopped doing it since Comcast will run the drops for free. I would conclude that a proper installed crimp connector is fine, but just like the solder connectors should not be abused.

 

[The DB]

There are people that will disagree, but a well made and properly crimped crimp on connector works just as well as a solder connection.

Use what you like, just stay away from the cheap stuff, and use a proper crimping tool if that is the route you take.


The DB

 

[Shadetree Mechanic]

The connectors designed for solder need to be soldered. The crimp connectors are the industry standard now days. Done correctly, a connector should last a lifetime either crimp or solder. NASA uses crimp connections for a reason.

 

[Tokin]

Honestly i agree with the shop. I dont try to solder mine either . Those holes are for inspection. You’ll have a tough time heating the fitting to where the solder will stick properly. As long as i see braid in all the holes im happy.
Im lucky that my roomie worked in the aerospace industry for many years and holds several certifications in building cables for the cell tower industry. Hes shown me a few simple techniques, tools and products thats made cutting and soldering coax pretty easy. Sweating copper as a plumber for a few years didnt hurt either. Believe me when i say if i can do it you can too. Scratch that off your list and you'll wonder why you waited lol.
Im not a fan of crimping but others here may feel different and know of some tools and techniques to do it well.

 

[543_Dallas]

I soldered them for years and have started crimping. What's important is that the shield has a good electrical connection to the pl259 body and you don't melt the coax trying to do it.

 

[Handy Andy]

I'm not a big fan of Crimping, but also know well the issues around RG-6 and RG-59 stuff, they don't use solder - I my "household cable" they use F connections which is mostly what I had to deal with either at home or even as part of the job helping as a "lumper" a few times to get extra $$$ back in the days...

But, you if you need to use connectors that use Crimp - don't expect them to take solder.

There used to be several types of coax connectors that allow for Crimp and Solder; you stripped off sheath, exposed shield - peeled then exposed center sleeve and strip it as well. - but to install; the Crimp was done first to the outer shield to "seal" you then held the tool like a wrench and turned the outer shield sleeve assembly over the sealed sleeve portion - seating it forcing the shield folding it back over the threaded end towards the opposite end - after all that you soldered the braid and center internally. They used silver plated sleeves and the crimp fitting - if overdone - usually tore the protective sheath. (One for RG-58 and RG-59 - were different sizes - wrong tool ruined your day) The process has been automated to a degree where nearly 100% success rates are possible thru a machine - took away all the fun. (No, I don't miss it a bit)

Another similar type used the tool to crimp to seal, but left the braid open to solder to the other outer mating sleeve - so those the steps were; drop ring (PL-259 outer knurl) thru, strip - push on outer seal crimp ring - cut off sheath expose shield spread, expose and strip center and press on the inner assembly - seat - crimp and run ring up to complete. (The seal side was longer - so the coax braid peeled and shoved into and towards the seal but not far enough into it so when you tightened down the inner assembly - the braid folded back and thru into that outer crimp ring then - when you crimped the seal - the braid pressed into the outer sheath - the seal was only to the sheath.

In any case, your strip lengths had to be exact - else too short, not enough "bite" to the sleeves for the shield to hold - too long, and your seal allowed water entry - the braid extended out past it. Several places would offer coax trimming tools and stripping knifes for the DIY - even Kmart offered their versions for the home cable crowd.

They - in a way, kinda kept the multi use connectors - but due to the different sleeve (outer protective) materials they use now, they did away with these special crimps because of the sleeve clearance, toughness and it's thickness made these obsolete. I think Radio Shack had similar coax end assemblies long sleeve threaded ends, and the mating ring - they were able to make PL-259 and SO-239's repair kits.

 

[Tokin]

I soldered them for years and have started crimping. What's important is that the shield has a good electrical connection to the pl259 body and you don't melt the coax trying to do it.

Ive learned to use blob of hot solder on my iron tip to heat the pl259 initially then touch it with the iron. Just a drop of Kesters rosin before i put solder to it. Too much iron heat will create hot gasses behind the solder and cause it to blow out and leave a void or worse yet melt the foam insulation and/or coax inside. Too much solder will do the same. Sometimes its best to let it cool off and come back to it. I use a multi meter to test them after for shorts and check the inspection holes for braid.

 

[sunbulls]

During initial trimming, I leave a substantial amount of coax center conductor, especially if it's foam. It will be cut and soldered as my last step. I always solder the braid to the reducer. That way I can inspect my job before going further. Without being soldered you risk a stray strand or two that could poke into the center conductor. Granted, it’s a little tricky to apply the right amount of solder and heat. Extra flux and quality solder is a must. Foam shielding melts easily. My solution, while it’s hot, I push some of that foam up into the reducer for a solid support before it cools. That’s why I leave my coax center conductor long. Don’t forget to run the outer sleeve up the coax before screwing in the reducer. I never solder the holes afterwards. If the reducer is tight, that’s all you need, plus it’s easier to take apart for later use someday.

 

[loosecannon]

truth is they are both harder than people give the processes credit for.

crimping is more than controlled squeezing.
there is a heat friction bonding that takes place and essentially fuses the metals together mechanically.
Thing is, everything has to be calibrated properly for this to take place.
you're not going to get that result from the ebay TV coax kit everyone buys.

there is a certain size die for a specific connector, and the quality control of PL-259's aint that great these days.
dont get me started on the argument over how long to hold the connection before releasing the crimpers!
people actually argue about this type of thing LOL.

so, in that sense, crimping is definitely inferior to soldering unless the right tools and techniques are used. if they are, the difference is negligible.

you have to remember how many millions of dollars are at play in the industries that have relied on crimping for decades and longer. They've done the studies, and they can back up their claims.


Now for soldering, the biggest mistake everyone makes is that they don't have a high enough wattage soldering iron. I was taken to task over this many years ago right here on this forum and was shown the error of my ways by someone i knew had a much better handle on it then i did.
yes, i can solder a PL-259 onto some RG8x including the holes for the shield using my trusty hako 936 and a big chisel tip.

can i make cables like that all day long and have them all come out just as high quality as when i started?
heck no.
and every once in a while i would flub one and have to cut it off and start over.

the right way to do it, and if it's going outside, the holes HAVE to be soldered or at least sealed up with something, is to use a 60 watt or higher soldering iron/gun, and good technique.

what is good technique?
well here is what i was shown that always works VERY well for me.
get yourself a junk chunk of whatever coax you have lying around, and put the UG-176 reducer on it.
now get it secured so it won't move around on you, and melt some solder all the way around the ring of that reducer. being careful not to get any on the threads.
the junk cable on the inside is sacrificial and will help keep solder from melting down the top to the inside of the ring.

don't make it too thick. now brush on a LIGHT! smear of soldering flux. i mean the smallest amount..

now put that reducer on the coax you have stripped and ready, (dont forget the shell! LOL)

i could go on and on about making sure that the dielectric is pushing up on the bottom of the hole for the center conductor so solder cant get through there, but that's another subject.

once you screw the PL259 on, do the center conductor first!
get it soldered, and completely cooled. like all the way cool. all the way.
the "should the center conductor hole get completely filled in with solder" is another argument i'll leave to others.
I try to fill it, but i can't say i get it all the way full every time, as i am a bit unsure of my dielectric spacing.

once everything is nice and cool again, get a cool wet paper towel or rag and wrap it around the coax right at the base of the connector to help keep this area cool.

get the connector secured and heat the hole and the reducer ring at the same time with your iron tip. keep trying to tack your solder on to that connection so that you'll know the moment it gets hot enough to flow.
once it flows push some solder in, and then take that wet rag and give the connector a quick sizzle.
rinse and repeat.

hope this helps people.
LC

 

[Justme]

Soldering 259 plugs is easy.
i use a 100 watt soldering iron with very large copper tip, which is needed to get as much heat as quick as possible on the spot.
Most mistakes are a too low wattage soldering iron, or one with a small tip.
Clean your stuff, i use a file to clean the holes in the PL259's and tin them in advance.
Be very secure in cutting the coax to size see several instuctions on the net.
Pre tin center conductor of coax, use file to remove excess if needed., thinly.

Mount coax in plug, using the big copper tip it is a question of seconds to get the braid thinned with the connector, once the solder has flowed, wait a few seconds, cool off plug with dampcloth, solder center conductor, done.
I keep that old trusty 100 watt soldering iron just for that since 30+ years, never failed.
Even doing aircom plus aircore insulated coax for 2/70 which melts even faster as full polyethylene RG213 etc.
The game is to get as much as heat possible as fast as you can to the braid and connector for a reliable solder connection and after setting, cool off a.s.a.p.

That way the isolation cannot melt, the center conductor wil stay in it's place and you won't get an impedance bump.
as soon the center conductor gets out of it's place in respect to the outer copper layer you have an impedance bump there, which you won't like.

Do it right, and an good connection is worth the effort.
Specially running expensive radio's or amplifiers.
You want a good connection there before blowing anything expensive up....
Though my ham radio is protected for it, my Heathkit SB-1000 would not like a bad connector..
P.S. use only the best connectors money can buy, not the chinese junk.
Mine are the old silvered ones, i have a lot of them spare, good quality pays off.
Not sensible to spend big bucks on expensive low loss coax to screw it up with el cheapo connectors is it...
One reason on 2 meters and up i only use N connectors, pressure fit, no soldering needed, but the cost 15 bucks a piece......

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

I have been soldering connectors for over 40 years. No big deal if you use a BIG iron or as I prefer...my 325 watt Weller soldering GUN. It has large tips and makes really short work of soldering the shield connections. I have been thinking about switching to all crimp connectors but haven't quite made the commitment yet. I prefer to solder the centre pin however.

 

[Low_Boy]

I soldered them for years and have started crimping. What's important is that the shield has a good electrical connection to the pl259 body and you don't melt the coax trying to do it.

I sometimes have trouble not melting the outer case of the coax. I use a Weller 100W iron and big tip. I have the best luck using a drop of liquid flux. Is that acceptable?

 

[Captain Kilowatt]

I sometimes have trouble not melting the outer case of the coax. I use a Weller 100W iron and big tip. I have the best luck using a drop of liquid flux. Is that acceptable?

As long as it is not acid based flux there should be no problem.

 

[543_Dallas]

Ditto. Flux is good. Use the biggest iron you can. I used to use a torch. After the solder solidifies I use a damp rag to cool the connector before it has a chance to melt the coax too badly. I leave it straight and don't move it until it's cool.

 

[Tokin]

Ditto. Flux is good. Use the biggest iron you can. I used to use a torch. After the solder solidifies I use a damp rag to cool the connector before it has a chance to melt the coax too badly. I leave it straight and don't move it until it's cool.

I like to use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel.