You going to run this on the rear cowl fairing?
I hope so, otherwise you'll poke the DOT Inspector eyes out...if you decide to run it out on the sides, on the front, it'll make you look like you've got eyelashes...
This is a variant of the "Hand rail" or outdoors railing method of use. This is the mobile variant of a workaround for an HOA issue.
- If you want to skip the rest of this message, I'll just say, you're throwing money away - that Trailer is your problem. The Flatbed doesn't have the issues you've got because they don't have that near field effective signal killer the trailer really is so their setup is far easier to breathe their signal out to the ether than yours.
I had discussed this to some length in coffee klatches with other drivers I got together with, and talked about a method of using a rain visor of some type, to make the 8 foot space between the doors more useful.
Some cabs use a metal box framework with such a rounded metal ring already up there to attach the aero-sleeper 2nd story up there, but above that there is very little present to protect or otherwise reinforce the upper portion of that sleeper cab.
Newer ones seem to be all one piece, which then takes away your ability to use your 8 foot distance as a space for your stuff and your counterpoise.
You may have a metal support ring, but you need to bond your antennas and your shelf to them. Each any every one of the cabs I've had the pleasure to yank cables thru, all of them, the drivers pretty much used the inner cubby center shelf. The one in the upper console, as their resting spot, not a mounted bracket it just rested there with velcro or sticky dual sided (ugh) tape- just to raise the knobs past the plastic trim to gain and have access to the radio - the bracket in many were never mounted to bond the RF to that deck.
You say you've done that, well then there's more
- - so if they riveted, well then there's the bolt you can use once the rivets' drilled out, but if you say you have a strong seam, then the problem is more of the antennas outward position away from the ring - tends to force the signal to front and back from the cab, but the trailer is the biggest reflection a problem with sleepers, they put the whips at a "resonate" 8 - 10 foot rear reflector dead spot - works for some, but not all.
- Since load constraints take precedence over CB SWR, the main saddle as well as the tandems being able to slide, don't provide much room for length, and for many, the load pretty much forces them to keep their antennas close to the sweet spot of resonance on the trailer - and the enemy is just that - your trailer.
- Flatbeds - you have the trailer, but it's BELOW the main image, think of this as a raised ground effect kit and ground skirt
So some are looking into using those stainless steel rain / shade visors to help their image, although looks fancy, not a simple nor cheap way to use them - especially if you rent the cab. It's more for the dedicated and self purchased. They can take the cost and expense and have the real-estate expanse to have it permanently added to their truck.
If you're thinking about running that "duck vane" - not the best option - you'll look like a pincushion. What the Visor does, allow the RF floating about in the frame and cab to work on the visor as a metal element added to the elements still radiating in the cab - which may not be in the most ideal spots to direct your signal nor are they the QUIETEST because -they too- support the electrical returns much of your faraday cage of a cab, has embedded in it.
It's amazing those PC - Emission, and DTC diagnostic agnostics that equipment is, can still function and not conflict with each other.
I just wish nearly everyone that owns one, didn't destroy their limiter in their Galaxy's radios just to chat - for the limiter can be "fixed" and yet take out your noise picked up by that cord, from getting tangled up and mixed in, with the rest of the receive.
