The antenna feed point is the point where the Coax connects to the antenna in this case that would be where the Pl 259 screws into the snug little hole on the SO 239 at the bottom. The RF choke should be as close to the feed point as possible adn it don't hurt to slap a couple of Ferrite’s on the line just below it. A good choke uses 25' of Coax wrapped on a piece of 6" Dia PVC drain pipe. A small Folgers Plastic coffee container is perfect size. Don't use Metal!
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Direct TV Box Reboots
- Thread starter iiiquaziii
- Start date
So I tried switching the boxes today. Problem stays in the same room as my radio....no matter what box I'm using. 20 feet away from the radio in one of the adjacent walled off rooms, this box doesn't reboot either. So its definitely proximity to the radio itself causing the issue. Hmmm....also tried wrapping the wires thru the chokes.
No change. Going to try the coffee can coil trick next.
I had a semi major home plumbing project/problem I'm working on today and probably tomorrow that is slowing me down. Pipes got plugged and when I tried to remove the trap covers and elbows I had some old pipes split down the side and are useless now. Old metal pipes.....*sigh*
No change. Going to try the coffee can coil trick next.
I had a semi major home plumbing project/problem I'm working on today and probably tomorrow that is slowing me down. Pipes got plugged and when I tried to remove the trap covers and elbows I had some old pipes split down the side and are useless now. Old metal pipes.....*sigh*
If you are running any CB amp with that radio with an A99 antenna that doesn't have radials or any kind of choke on it; then you are going to have problems that you cannot fix. Even a choke is not a guarantee. Take the amp out of line and run that Drake radio alone. Otherwise, you are asking for trouble you aren't prepared to handle nor to correct . . .
Don't know of any Ham radio that would be the cause of the problems you are having. So it has to be anything but the radio. That is a pretty sure bet.
Don't know of any Ham radio that would be the cause of the problems you are having. So it has to be anything but the radio. That is a pretty sure bet.
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I deleted this post earlier, but then decided that it might be relevant. Our DTV box always went into the reboot mode whenever I used my arc welder, and sometimes, when I used it at highest power, our microwave would indicate a power failure. Since the welder was connected directly to the service mains at the fuse box, whenever I struck an arc the line voltage would drop very low for an instant and the box would see it as a power failure and would reboot. In fact all of the lights in the house would dim whenever I was welding. The Electric Company finally upgraded our service which eliminated the problem.
Since your DTV box is on the same circuit as your radio equipment, this may be your problem too. Try using an extension cord to connect the DTV box to a circuit in another room and see if the problem goes away. Good luck and 73s.
- 399
Since your DTV box is on the same circuit as your radio equipment, this may be your problem too. Try using an extension cord to connect the DTV box to a circuit in another room and see if the problem goes away. Good luck and 73s.
- 399
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Well, to answer some questions. I'm using an Antron A99 antenna, mounted to my chimney, like this.
Its grounded to that huge crapper vent pipe with a couple pieces of romex I pulled out of a electrical wire and twisted together. The a99 is mounted on the top of that pole you see.
I haven't been transmitting on 10m much, just a few quick tests to see if it would reboot the box...it does. I'm taking my test on the 25th, I'm excited.
I have used ferrite chokes, but I didn't know there were different kinds. The ones I'm using I got off of old telephone systems as I install PBXs for a living. I could try putting some more wraps thru them.....some different ones.
Just a note about your grounding. First it appears the wire is a little small for the job as it should be equivalent to #6 at a minimum and it should never be twisted like that. It adds inductance and that is what you do NOT want in a ground cable in the event of a lightning strike. In fact the main idea is to provide a low resistance and low inductance path to ground.Straight parallel pieces would be better and a single LARGE wire is best. I would also be suspect of the pipe. At first I thought it was ABS but I see in another post you said it was iron. Most iron pipe fittings had pipe dope on the threads that will make for a poor electrical connection when pressed to handle thousands of amps of current. Besides that it is connected to the toilet. I wouldn't want to be sitting there during a lightning strike......even if it might be an appropriate place to be.
lol...
Not to mention the likelihood of igniting all of that explosive methane/sewer gas - too . . .
Not to mention the likelihood of igniting all of that explosive methane/sewer gas - too . . .
It's actually worse that that. That is a Cast Iron vent stack, not galvanized or black natural gas line pipe. Each 6' length is coated in tar. The connection fittings are stuffed with okum then molten lead is pour in. There is almost no metal to metal contact at the joints.
Cable is crappy Rg-58. No amp except the one in the drake itself....I have to turn down the output sooooooooo low to have it not reboot...prob like 5 watts. Also, I've tried plugging the cable box into different circuits with an extension cord, no change.
As for lightening, lets be honest here....if that antenna takes a lightning strike its going to turn it into slag, as well as probably vaporizing any cable I use to ground it with....perhaps even starting my roof on fire in the process. I've worked on phone systems that have taken lightning damage, and even the industrial lightning protectors we install on the phone lines usually don't save the equipment or anything and the lines usually incinerate completely.
I'd probably need like 6 zero or 00 gauge copper cables going into half a dozen copper grounding rods to protect against lightening completely, and I bet it'd STILL slag the antenna itself.
KNOCK ON WOOD.
As for lightening, lets be honest here....if that antenna takes a lightning strike its going to turn it into slag, as well as probably vaporizing any cable I use to ground it with....perhaps even starting my roof on fire in the process. I've worked on phone systems that have taken lightning damage, and even the industrial lightning protectors we install on the phone lines usually don't save the equipment or anything and the lines usually incinerate completely.
I'd probably need like 6 zero or 00 gauge copper cables going into half a dozen copper grounding rods to protect against lightening completely, and I bet it'd STILL slag the antenna itself.
KNOCK ON WOOD.
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Your right on a direct lightning strike, There really is nothing you can do that will give complete protection. Since your antenna may be the highest object on top of your house, it will probably be stuck if a strike did happen there. Best thing to do is when thunderstorms are predicted in your area is unplug the coax to your radio equipment. Better yet, you should have a disconnect setup outside your house and have that attached to an 8 ft. ground rod which will protect you from static discharge from a nearby strike which is just as deadly to your electronic devices.
this is what I use, expensive but worth it. ( Ground clamps and static arrestors sold separately). http://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/AlphaDeltaClampPic.html
this is what I use, expensive but worth it. ( Ground clamps and static arrestors sold separately). http://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/AlphaDeltaClampPic.html
Back to your main issue, You should using better coax cable preferably LMR 400 (RG8) by Times microwave. This coax has some of the best ratings for velocity factor, shielding , and power ratings. This is becoming the standard in both Ham and CB communications.
You can get by just fine with LMR 240 which is RG8X if your using less than 70ft. or so. But at the very least, you should be using any brand of RG8X coax.
Your problem still sounds like your coax is radiating. This is called common mode which is RF currents traveling on the outside of the coax and can be solved by the advice that was given.
Commercially made baluns or available ranging from $30 up to $80 dollars or more. Make sure they are listed as 1:1 transformer baluns not 4:1 or higher ratios which are used on dipole antennas and balanced feedlines.
Making your own is the best bet because the coffee can version isn't prone to saturation and overheating like ferrite transformer types especially if you operate continuous duty modes like A.M. But as a another poster noted that I left out was you do need to use a non- metal coffee can or something similar. You need 18 feet of coax and wrap it evenly and snug without any overlapping then tape it up to secure it and install it as close to the antenna feed point as possible.
Snap on Ferrite beads are for your household electronic devices that are picking up RFI. These work well on stereo speakers and other devices after your common mode problem is taken care of. However like a posted earlier you must use the right mix and properly install them.
You can get by just fine with LMR 240 which is RG8X if your using less than 70ft. or so. But at the very least, you should be using any brand of RG8X coax.
Your problem still sounds like your coax is radiating. This is called common mode which is RF currents traveling on the outside of the coax and can be solved by the advice that was given.
Commercially made baluns or available ranging from $30 up to $80 dollars or more. Make sure they are listed as 1:1 transformer baluns not 4:1 or higher ratios which are used on dipole antennas and balanced feedlines.
Making your own is the best bet because the coffee can version isn't prone to saturation and overheating like ferrite transformer types especially if you operate continuous duty modes like A.M. But as a another poster noted that I left out was you do need to use a non- metal coffee can or something similar. You need 18 feet of coax and wrap it evenly and snug without any overlapping then tape it up to secure it and install it as close to the antenna feed point as possible.
Snap on Ferrite beads are for your household electronic devices that are picking up RFI. These work well on stereo speakers and other devices after your common mode problem is taken care of. However like a posted earlier you must use the right mix and properly install them.
My concern has never been about having an antenna destroyed by lightning but rather not having all my gear in the shack destroyed as well as having a hole blown in my roof and my house caught on fire. I won't get into proper grounding as it has been beaten to death here and can be found with a simple search but it IS entirely possible to fully protect a station including the antennas with a little effort and not a great expense. It is more about HOW it is done rather than the expense to get it done. Commercial installations and a lot of hams take direct hits all the time and do not suffer any damage even while staying on the air during a strike. Again, F the antenna I just don't want to be homeless until my home is rebuilt.
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