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Do I really need two alternators

I'm not trying to shoot skip I just want monster audio no one can talk over and blows the doors off
WHY?
I don't want to sound like an a** hole.....
Most of the folks here will tell you this if asked, "don't blow your money on amps when what you NEED to look at is the best antenna set up you can put up. I think you would fair well to read, and reread k0bg.com , and do so meany times. After that you can work on your antenna, if you still think you need an amp a amp with 4 trains. is your first, and last stop. That is all you need, really.
If you don't want someone to walk on you then give the guy a brake, let them talk or go to another channel.
I do not understand why someone would not want to let someone else talk.
Are I think (JMHI) or "pro" must not be much of a pro if you need to ask here about your install. Why don't you ask your "pro"?
Ok I'm off my high horse....I got to put 100 watts out on .555 and with luck I'll hear someone come back,I am board to death...got to do more work on my Gen. Test prep too.
Oh....I almost forgot......I just got down....:whistle:
 
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Replace the wire from the alternator to the battery with BIG gauge wire. I personally would do at least 4 gauge.
This is a "MUST"...You will need to up-grade the charge wire from the alternator to the battery...

And, may end up having to do some re-routing of the charge wire...On some cars and trucks, the charge wire comes off the alternator, then go's to the computer before going back to the battery...in this case, do away with the wire going to the computer and run your larger gauge charge wire directly to the battery from the alternator...You will still have the original factory wire coming off the battery going to the computer anyway so the computer will still see voltage.

I had to do this on my 97 Suburban...You can either cut off that wire going to the computer, or just tape it up and tuck it behind something out of the way if you think you may decide later to put it back stock.
 
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You clearly have not been around the 1/10 corridor in El Paso San Antonio Houston or 35 in Austin you're talking radios doing 500+ all Spanish all the time. And they won't let a guy get a word in to ask for local directions to save his ever loving life. So when I hear someone ask I'd like to be able to answer them. I'd also like to be able to hold conversations with other bigboxes who speak English my radio does about 175 watts barefoot and I can't even get out of my talk back with these yapping so hard non stop
 
You clearly have not been around the 1/10 corridor in El Paso San Antonio Houston or 35 in Austin you're talking radios doing 500+ all Spanish all the time. And they won't let a guy get a word in to ask for local directions to save his ever loving life. So when I hear someone ask I'd like to be able to answer them. I'd also like to be able to hold conversations with other bigboxes who speak English my radio does about 175 watts barefoot and I can't even get out of my talk back with these yapping so hard non stop
We have a few of those here in the Dallas area too...Luckily here most of them stay down on channel 2, or a few on 22...We try and keep them run-off channel 19, 15 and 28... Anytime a Spanish speaking radio get's on those channels it usually turns into a slug-fest with no one getting herd.:D
 
Out in El Paso the one that burns me up the most is the Cadillac man. He shuts down everything and everyone around for 3-4 miles and he sits at the petrochemical so no one can get directions or say anything at all. My last set up was just like this one and I used to mosh on him every time he keyed up. Yes sir I got a bunch of "thank you much" every time I'd do it
 
Rescue,

There is a lot of good info at k0bg.com like stated above. Plus like Jesse said, increase the size wire from battery to alt. I used 0 ga. fine strand. I run a connex 4300-300 and a Ranger N2 with a sweet 16. Everything under the hood is factory original except the wiring hook up for the radios and 16. '10 Chevy Pick up with the 5.3L
The most I can get out of the 16 at highway speed is 950 watts. At night the headlights wink on key up and fluctuate when talking. SO, like stated, depends on what you want and how much money you can spend. My next step is a larger alt. and another battery.
 
If it were me, I would run dual alternators. Yes, you can add batteries and maybe a big cap (no where near the capacity of a battery, but much faster response) to smooth out the rough edges, but remember, power in (should) equal power out. If you ask an alternator to run at 110% all the time, it's going to burn out all that much faster. Not to mention the electronics on the car really don't like big changes in available power. For example, (and probably the least of your worries) the Mass Air flow Sensor will give false readings if the voltage drops down due to lack of available current and that can will cause the motor to run rich ect. ect. ect....
 
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For example, (and probably the least of your worries) the Mass Air flow Sensor will give false readings if the voltage drops down due to lack of available current and that can will cause the motor to run rich ect. ect. ect....
Most computerized cars have a low voltage shutdown (10.8 volts) so the engine doesn't go too lean and burn up the motor. The fuel solenoids can't activate long enough to supply enough fuel.
But that's my take on it.
 
Most computerized cars have a low voltage shutdown (10.8 volts) so the engine doesn't go too lean and burn up the motor. The fuel solenoids can't activate long enough to supply enough fuel.
But that's my take on it.
Your right, there are shut downs (the car goes in to "limp home" mode) and regulators (buck/boost?), but it would, best case scenario, cause the check engine light to go on. Either way, IMHO, dual alternators would be the way to go. The way I look at it, batteries are not a source of power, but rather a power bank. Too many withdrawals and not enough deposits and your going to get problems ;)
 
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You would be surprised at how much abuse a alternator can take before burning out...My Route Van has a 135 amp alt., and battery bank of 4 regular Walmart car batterys, and that battery bank is enough to run my refrigerator, and 2x6 DM, plus the Van without so much as dimming the lights...There's a power inverter that the refrigerator plugs into, so the frig is running all day off the battery bank.

Van has over 380,000 miles on it now, and I'm on my second alternator...

There's not much of a chance draining 4 batterys (5 if you count the battery under the hood) down talking on a CB and running a Amp, since your only drawing off the battery's when you key the Mic...Unless your just a bucket-mouth or playing Pink Floyd's "The Wall" album over the air, your not going to drain the bank...As long as the motors running, those battery's are getting re-charged.
 
Well, I don't want to sound like a smart-ass, but I've seen similar problems with kids running big car stereo amps. The conversations have gone something like this; "I don't understand, I got a 165 amp alternator." Me: "Sonny, your stereo is pulling 200+ amps. All the big caps and batteries aren't going to make up for the lack of power... for long, heh." Then you get the ones that know a little about calculating watts/voltage /current but fail to realize that amplifiers aren't 100% efficient.
 
Monster Audio

High pass & low pass filter at the Audio out lead of the mic element.

The filters will dampen audio peaks at the source. Especially the vowels/base voice

sounds.

Noise canceling mobile mic The best bar non and heap of lies for many decades.

Shure 557B.

Compressor audio circuit. Fallowed by a Audio clipping circuit.

Adjust everything on an ocilliscope. 4 watts will sound like 100 watts at close to

100% modulation. Now feed this into a linear.

Alternatively. Turner + 3 compression desk mic (with high pass low pass mod.)

+ 858 based CB radio that already has a built in clipping audio circuit

Best 73s
I never heard of a Shure 557b.
Could you be referring to the 175 ohm 577b?
vendorimages3398._CB346280286_.jpg
 
Well, I don't want to sound like a smart-ass, but I've seen similar problems with kids running big car stereo amps. The conversations have gone something like this; "I don't understand, I got a 165 amp alternator." Me: "Sonny, your stereo is pulling 200+ amps. All the big caps and batteries aren't going to make up for the lack of power... for long, heh." Then you get the ones that know a little about calculating watts/voltage /current but fail to realize that amplifiers aren't 100% efficient.
Difference is, car stereo amps are constantly pulling power as long as the radio is turned on...In a CB set up, the only time your pulling amps is when the button on the microphone is pushed...Most people only talk for a few seconds at a time, maybe a minute at the most before letting off the key...There's no way you can drain down a battery bank in that length of time specially with the motor running so the alternator is sending a charge to the battery's...
 
This is why I hate people with more money than brains. So it never occurred to you that you might need to think about what you want versus what you can actually use or power?

Where do you guys come from that you never stop to think about your electrical system and what it can support?

It is like that guy that puts a huge engine in a car or truck with a 10-gallon fuel tank.

A little bit research on this thing called the internet before you blow your paycheck on something might be useful?

This what our public school system produces in America.

Ok so how many amps is your stock OEM alternator rated for? At what RPM? How many amps does your amp draw under full load? Do you plan on running at full load most for the time? What rpm is the replacement alternator designed for?

So while I am asking the questions you should have asked what are you feeding it with? What size wire are you using and how long is the wire? Are you wired directly to the battery? How much power are you driving it with? How much power is your radio drawing? How many other amps are you running in this vehicle?

Any idea how much current your vehicle needs to operate with all lights turned on and stock gear like AM/FM radio etc?

What coax and antenna are you using? How long of a run is it?


Yes, you could prob. get a 340amp+ alternator and bolt it up so you only have one alternator. Depends on year make and model.

.

For the record few alternators put out much power at idle so even with more powerful alternators or adding 2+ alternators, you have to be well above idle to make much power.

Why do you think so many knuckleheads that are into big power drive old Chevy Suburbans and other large old pre=serpintine belt vehicles??? There is a reason these guys do not drive Porsche 911 Turbo's and other modern vehicles.

This is why I am always shaking my head and laughing at key down types. It is not practical to put anything larger or more powerful than a 667 or solid 4 pill in a modern vehicle.

I especially love how so many alternators and other bolts-on's under hood bolt directly to the block or heads with no added bracketry.

For the records boys do some research before you go spending money. It is not the 1980's anymore.

You should have bought the alternator and wiring before you bought the amp! Better yet by a system that fits the application so no modification is needed,

This is also why I think so many men are fools for buying these huge radio's that do not fit well in today's vehicles. If you keep buying the junk they keep pumping out they will never give us what we need!
 
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2011 Chevy Tahoe installing a Mechman 270 alternator


I do not know how to say this without offending you but I think you're a clown! Go back to school. Really loud audio no one can talk over......LOL That is idiotic on so many different levels!

A 270amp alternator is not enough 340A would barely cover it and 500A would be even better.You are driving a 7-8 year old General Motors vehicle so no excuses really not like you are driving a Toyota Camry or Volkswagon Passat and do not have any aftermarket options! LOL.....

A TS Sweet 16 is not going to help you shoot skip. If you want to dominate local talking than yes a TS Sweet 16 would help.

Your rf amp has NOTHING to do with your audio? You can toss a 1000W carrier which has no audio at all.
 
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