Hi, I've been looking at schematics from all of rangers radios including the 959, and every model uses a 220pf cap as a coupling cap from the pre driver to the first mosfet. My radio has a100pf cap.. why is this? Is this different from radio to radio? What happens if I raise this value?
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galaxy 959 c220
- Thread starter 9Lives
- Start date
Because you have failed to see the bigger picture. So what? You are not going to get anything more out of the radio that the engineers didn't already consider. You are beating 'a dead horse'.
:bdh:
Peak the TX coils, turn up the ALC and AMC a little bit, don't clip the limiter, and that MOSFET radio will do ~25-30 watts PEP on a peak reading meter right out of the box. What more could you ask for? Any more than that will cause the failure of the radio's output. So; why bother? Why do you want to possibly mod the radio that may well affect it adversely somewhere down the line? Sorry; I don't get it . . .
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If your radio is not yielding the wattage numbers that ROBB published then just to satisfy your curiosity you could tack another 100pf cap across the exising cap and see if that brings your output up to those numbers.
If your radio is already doing those numbers then why bother and why take a chance that something goes horribly wrong and you sit there with an anguished look on your face and then have to replace parts to get it working again.
If you can't double your power as easy as falling down it ain't worth the trouble.
And if you do double your power, well, you still ain't done squat.
Doubling your power sounds like a lot; Makes the wattmeter go but it don't make the Smeter go.
I guess every one on these forums must be so use to people begging they're radios for more power. Every one responds in this manner. I ask these questions out of curiosity yeesh. I didn't come out the womb knowing this stuff.the only way I found out anything was by asking, plundering through people's bs answers about power and keep asking.. the answers are almost just as cliche as the questions some people ask about watts. Guys I just like to pick at this stuff. I enjoy tinkering with them more than I do talking on them.
Fact of the matter is it does seem a little off to me. But I'm not sure if it's off bc no one will shoot me a strait answer wo lecturing me.
After adding tg compressor it's KILLING it on ssb. Looks beautiful on scope and doing almost 25 BIRD watts. On am it's doing about 8.. that's a little odd to me, but it might not be. I don't really need it higher than that but I'm in search of knowledge. Not power.. sorry if I made that unclear.
Fact of the matter is it does seem a little off to me. But I'm not sure if it's off bc no one will shoot me a strait answer wo lecturing me.
After adding tg compressor it's KILLING it on ssb. Looks beautiful on scope and doing almost 25 BIRD watts. On am it's doing about 8.. that's a little odd to me, but it might not be. I don't really need it higher than that but I'm in search of knowledge. Not power.. sorry if I made that unclear.
Didn't mean to come off harsh; sorry about that.
People often want what they just can't have - too.
You or I cannot beat the engineers who designed it - is all. The devices they chose and the way they are set up on the board is optimal in most cases. Your willingness to discover and try is duly noted and appreciated. But it really is 'chasing after the wind' in most cases - like this one.
If you want to play with cap values and get better TX/RX audio; then you might try the 'GoldFinger audio mod' for this chassis:
Hi Fi mod for ept6900 series board
Galaxy 900 series radios 919 through 979
Receive
Remove C39
Change C78, C40 and C185 to 2.2uF non-polarized electrolytic
To add more highs change C184 to a .001uF ceramic disc
Transmit
Need more gain for running a stock mic or noise cancelling mic?
Change R-176 from a 270K stock, to a 470K.
Want more Bass?
Change C-154, a .22uF 16V tantalum, to a 3.3uF 16V tantalum.
Change C-171 and C-235 to .47uF 50-100 volt Mylar.
For even more Bass:.
Change C-154, a .22uF 16V tantalum, to a 10uF 16V tantalum.
Change C-171 and C-235 to 2.2uF, 50-100 volt Mylar.
(the 2.2uF non-polarized and the 10uF tantalum available at Radio Shack)
(Copied from the 'DeepSouthRadioForum')
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Actually that may well be explained as a change made by the engineers in a particular production run when they found out that when they changed to a different vendor for the driver or final devices that they were not exactly as the previous devices that were being used and a 'tweak' to some of the component values were in order.
I am not an engineer, so I just concentrate on repairing/aligning, I leave the engineer stuff to the engineers that designed the radio.
All good Rob. You've helped me out ahelluva lot mo're than offended me. I just know my questions appear to be about power. I just like tweaking things to be there best.. it's like my thing. did those mods to my first galaxy.. didn't work like the cobras. To me at least.
Do those numbers match up to you? Seems like my ssb it's to high or am to low..
Do those numbers match up to you? Seems like my ssb it's to high or am to low..
The TG comp can and will give you more average watts on AM and SSB modes. That isn't the problem - IMO. Did you peak the TX coils as per the Service Manual?
Ok, so im good? I've got all this bad ass equip yet I don't have a cheap peak meter lol. It was weird seeing the bird climb on side band and just bumping on am.. doubted myself for a sec.
When setting the pots for the carrier is it ok to set off avg watts? Or is that not safe for the input of the amp? I have it set to 1-4 bird watts.
When setting the pots for the carrier is it ok to set off avg watts? Or is that not safe for the input of the amp? I have it set to 1-4 bird watts.
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There is a method by which you can make an average responding meter read very close to what a PEP meter will read when on SSB. (this will not work for AM)
If you do this test then do it at a frequency where the SWR is the lowest on the antenna or better is to use a dummy load if you have one.
(Your wattmeter will be more accurate when the standing wave is the lowest)
Put the 1 kc tone in and turn the mic gain up till the wattmeter indication starts to drop. (depending upon how the radio is adjusted the wattmeter might not indicate a drop in power, this is ok, just take the highest reading that you see)
If don't over drive the audio your SSB will generate a carrier with no apparent modulation. (as viewed on the oscilloscope)
This will allow the average responding wattmeter to indicate very closely to what a PEP meter will indicate.
A PEP wattmeter will read slightly higher due to the effect of unburdoning the power supply and its voltage will be higher momentarily which will produce slightly more output power.
This will produce a reading that will be almost equal to what a PEP meter will indicate.
Hey Rob you might appreciate this.. the guy that sent me the cp1 also sent a 47k resistor. Said for better performance use in series with yellow lead. At first I didn't use it and the comp did not impress me. Looked horrible on scope. I added the resistor, cleaned it up on the scope big time
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