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Heathkit Cantenna Model HN-31 Question???

Phil501

CDX-501 back in da mix!!
Apr 6, 2005
217
1
28
55
Western Nevada
Hey gang, I just scored a "Cantenna".........I've never used one. I've played around with dry dummy loads, but always burn them up. hehe......for it's age, it's in good shape....Inside is good and clean, outside is a little tatered....Hard to read writing on it.....What kind of oil do I use, and also how much do I fill it.......I'm not going to be pumpiing a 1kw or anything, just around 300 to 500w.......Any input from you guys would be great........73's
 

Phil501,
See if your local power company stocks transformer oil. Mine does, offered to sell it to me, found out how little I wanted and gave it to me instead (I do get lucky now and then - lol). mineral oil also works okay. Told my pharmacist I wanted a gallon of the stuff. He wanted to know why, and I told him I had this constipated elephant. Had to find another pharmacist, that one doesn't even want to see me in his place any more....
- 'Doc

PS - Oh, just as a hint, keep the pressure relief valve (little screw in a hole) on the can's lid clean. And if you ever set it out in the weather, it'll take in water like you wouldn't believe. Cover it.
 
Shell Diala-X (transformer oil) would be the logical choice if you can get it. Arbitrarily filling to a certain point would be ok assuming all dummy loads have identical resistor placement. I would look to be sure that the resistor was at least covered completely by a few inches. Chemical activity, ignition temperature, specific heat, among other things are criteria needed for the proper choice of filling agent. Additives are a really bad idea, typically they have large polar moments, to cause them to stick to metal surfaces as an aid to lubrication, as such any automotive oil is not good, they may eventually attack chemically the resistor and the can. Type F Ford transmission fluid has particles added for friction, since the clutch packs have no material facings. In say a Chrysler product, the clutches and bands have friction linings so these friction agents are not added. The friction agents may sludge out into the bottom of the can after time in the type F fluids, and like I stated all other automotive lubricants may have chemical activity that is detrimental to the resistor. On another site I posted that I put a gallon of vegetable oil in mine in 1988, and the can is still under my bench just as happy as can be, little chemical activity for what it's worth, and no odors. The poster on the other site didn't realize in his rancid oil theory that you first have to cook for a long time with the oil, something not applicable to brand new oil. But in truth even this is not the best choice, the Diala-X is better, and probably pure mineral oil is better for many reasons, but way too expensive in my mind to be worth using. If you cannot buy mineral oil or get the Diala-X, I would use vegetable oil, much cheaper. Never use old or used transformer oil, it is likely to contain polychlorinated biphenyls (PCB's), a super dangerous thing to have around.
 
Hey there FreeCell.......Very interesting post you gave me......Very informative for sure.......A big thanks to ya bud...I have some buddy's that work for the local power company in Reno.......I'll try to get in touch with them. For now, I'll try the Vegie oil......Thanks again Freecell, and the rest of ya's for insight on my new Dummy Load.........73's all :D
 
I lucked out when we toasted a 10Kw Dielectric dummy load at work.I drained the 5 gallons of silicone load oil and brought it home.It is meant for use in high powered dummy loads.I have a dummy load made from ten 500 ohm 50 watt Globar resistors.It was either military surpluss or broadcast in origin and just fits nicely in a gallon paint can.With 500 watts open air dissipation I have no idea what it would handle in the silicone load oil bath. :shock:
 
I did that Doc.I made up a small pressure relief valve from a rubber grommet,a small spring,and a small bolt.The thought of exploding a gallon of hot oil all over the shack and me just did not sit too well with me. :shock: The most I have put into it was just shy of a kilowatt.
 
How do the MFJ versions compare to the heathkits? I was looking at the MFJ snd they dont look to bad but for the price I dont know? Probly just get a heathkit for cheaper.
 
Cheech,
I've never set the two side by side for comparison but I honestly don't see where there's enough difference to make any difference. Then again, since Heathkit isn't around anymore, what's wrong with the MFJ one?
- 'Doc
 
Cheech said:
How do the MFJ versions compare to the heathkits? I was looking at the MFJ snd they dont look to bad but for the price I dont know? Probly just get a heathkit for cheaper.

How much are the MFJ's going for???????
Just curious
 

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