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Kl203 amp
- Thread starter Slim304
- Start date
I do not know the jumper settings off hand. You can Google the jumper settings. If I remember its either just moving a jumper or de-soldering a resistor. They were build to be converted. Watch the deadkey on your radio. The recommended deadkey is 1 1/2 to 2 watts only. It should sound well. CBradiomagizine did good review on the amp a while back.
Shadetree Mechanic
Delaware Base Station 808
I think the 203 should be ready to go right out of the box. I have two of them and did not need to change anything. I have heard of people changing jumpers but I'm not sure which RM amp it was.
The KL200P I think the old version had to have a jumper moved. Not sure on the new KL203P, BUT on the KL203's I never had one that had to be converted.
From a truck driver perspective:
No changes other than having the power-pair up-sized at Rays’ CB Shop (Memphis) on a KL203p. I installed Anderson PowerPole ends a few months later. That was a few years ago. 200k miles?
Related:
Note: The best way to mod one of these is as I’ve described; so that:
1). A DC power distribution panel can be used (SotaBeam, RigRunner, etc); no splicing into Radio power leads as might be tempting in mobile installs. Both Radio and Amp use APP ends to run from DC panel.
2). And that the Amp (and Radio) power pair is long enough to get a number of wraps on a ferrite toroid or snap-on bead (of appropriate mix).
3). A few patches of industrial Velcro (10 or 20#; whatever’s handy) to affix to Radio case-top. Think “location” more than tight securement.
4). Where, when other COAX in-line devices may be in use (bandpass or cube filters),
the relation of DC panel, radio, plus amp coax & wiring are the ones to have secured to (and from) each other. It’s all as one, now.
5). Radio & Amp are subject to operating adjustment. Getting down the road (or at a base) means the trio is going to get jostled by the operator. (Where the set goes INTO a vehicle space; a slipseater box would be a different, less worrisome “install”).
Get the fixed distance relation problem done first.
I know it seems obvious.
The central unit isn’t the radio any longer, it’s
Radio + Amplifier + DC Panel, now.
Whatever else may draw panel power (remote meter, tuner, DSP speaker) is in an outlying circle. Further coax jumpers, same.
Thus,
6). Power among these three, first.
Then Coax within this set.
Everything else secondary.
(I’ve had to — or chosen to — install and remove and replace plus swap and repair the radio rig in a big truck many more times than I can count).
7). Well, why not just a BIG RADIO (no external amp)? No real benefit as
the rig must have DC power and being short one power lead set isn’t any game-changer.
a). Radios have tiny speakers. An external one is needed.
b). An amplified speaker is almost a prerequisite in a noisy environment.
c). An inexpensive AM/SSB radio plus an external amplified speaker with integrated DSP or an inline module whups ANY big radio.
d). A mobile install without a DC distribution panel is harder to deal with and NOT worth the hassle. (Add USB or other charger abilities if RF can be tamed)
So,
8). One of these drives the installation, so to speak.
In order to run these without any cares.
9). All together, the next step is why I find the TAC COMM TRC MODELS ONE or TWO to be the “best” way of making a Rig portable.
Go from base station to mobile and back again as the Radio, Amp & DC Panel are in fixed relation. Always.
.
No changes other than having the power-pair up-sized at Rays’ CB Shop (Memphis) on a KL203p. I installed Anderson PowerPole ends a few months later. That was a few years ago. 200k miles?
Related:
Note: The best way to mod one of these is as I’ve described; so that:
1). A DC power distribution panel can be used (SotaBeam, RigRunner, etc); no splicing into Radio power leads as might be tempting in mobile installs. Both Radio and Amp use APP ends to run from DC panel.
2). And that the Amp (and Radio) power pair is long enough to get a number of wraps on a ferrite toroid or snap-on bead (of appropriate mix).
3). A few patches of industrial Velcro (10 or 20#; whatever’s handy) to affix to Radio case-top. Think “location” more than tight securement.
4). Where, when other COAX in-line devices may be in use (bandpass or cube filters),
the relation of DC panel, radio, plus amp coax & wiring are the ones to have secured to (and from) each other. It’s all as one, now.
5). Radio & Amp are subject to operating adjustment. Getting down the road (or at a base) means the trio is going to get jostled by the operator. (Where the set goes INTO a vehicle space; a slipseater box would be a different, less worrisome “install”).
Get the fixed distance relation problem done first.
I know it seems obvious.
The central unit isn’t the radio any longer, it’s
Radio + Amplifier + DC Panel, now.
Whatever else may draw panel power (remote meter, tuner, DSP speaker) is in an outlying circle. Further coax jumpers, same.
Thus,
6). Power among these three, first.
Then Coax within this set.
Everything else secondary.
(I’ve had to — or chosen to — install and remove and replace plus swap and repair the radio rig in a big truck many more times than I can count).
7). Well, why not just a BIG RADIO (no external amp)? No real benefit as
the rig must have DC power and being short one power lead set isn’t any game-changer.
a). Radios have tiny speakers. An external one is needed.
b). An amplified speaker is almost a prerequisite in a noisy environment.
c). An inexpensive AM/SSB radio plus an external amplified speaker with integrated DSP or an inline module whups ANY big radio.
d). A mobile install without a DC distribution panel is harder to deal with and NOT worth the hassle. (Add USB or other charger abilities if RF can be tamed)
So,
8). One of these drives the installation, so to speak.
In order to run these without any cares.
9). All together, the next step is why I find the TAC COMM TRC MODELS ONE or TWO to be the “best” way of making a Rig portable.
Go from base station to mobile and back again as the Radio, Amp & DC Panel are in fixed relation. Always.
.
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