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Mobile Power Question

I didn’t find fuse spec for this radio.

So I opened the guide on the 500W KL703 I have.

60A

Look at chart above for

70A

Call it 6-AWG (which would be fine) or 4-AWG (overkill bullseye).
That’s the divisor.

The KL-7405 is fused at 20A (5W driven = 125A)
The KL-7505 is fused at 30A (10W driven = 225A)

Turn down the power and he “could” run it on 14-AWG (conditions apply)

Is he really ever going to use more than 20-30A?
With a 50A fuse it’s still 6 or 4.

I’ve nothing against 2-AWG, except it starts to be a bear to install (terminations, bends, securement, etc).
4 is hard enough.
6 is where E-Z ends

I sure can’t see the benefit of 2-AWG

(This ends my barking-while-at-the-end-of-the-chain).

OP “sees” to pay attention via posts’ debate, problem solved.

.
 
Last edited:
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I was just stating what I would do. What other people do might be different. And that's ok too.


It’s true that most under-size versus over-size.

It’ll be interesting the OP comes back with:

— I fried my antenna and scorched the paint.

— GEICO said the salvage value is X

— Why does my meter swing backwards?

— What’s that waterfall sound?

— My wife said she could hear me across the kitchen toaster

— I got pulled over for lamps going dim-bright, dim-bright . . .

— My wipers come on when I engage cruise control.

— (what’d I miss?)

I’d say the OP is a pretty bright guy, so he’ll understand one of his legs growing longer.
 
It’s true that most under-size versus over-size.

It’ll be interesting the OP comes back with:

— I fried my antenna and scorched the paint.

— GEICO said the salvage value is X

— Why does my meter swing backwards?

— What’s that waterfall sound?

— My wife said she could hear me across the kitchen toaster

— I got pulled over for lamps going dim-bright, dim-bright . . .

— My wipers come on when I engage cruise control.

— (what’d I miss?)

I’d say the OP is a pretty bright guy, so he’ll understand one of his legs growing longer.

Slowmover you are cracking me up. I don't think my antenna would like a generator in the trunk propping it up HA! Radio is fused at 60A. Looks like I am going to step the wire size up to 4awg not SAE into a distribution block, then Ill go 8 awg from there. Should be less than two feet. Also got a crimper and lugs on the way! I feel like the distribution block is going to make me want to put more goodies in there but I digress. One thing at a time. Also, I hope I don't come back with any of those. I might on the salvage value, this car doesn't have ABS and that LA traffic is rough.
 
Figured I would give an update here as it’s been a few days. Haven’t made too much headway as I’ve been working a ton and was out sick this weekend. Today before work I pulled out the excess power cable I had and busted out the new strippers, crimping tool and ends I picked up off Amazon. I moved the ground to the nearest seat bolt. Took it off cleaned it up with a wire brush and gave it a coat of dielectric grease. The power line got shortened up at the fuse. Take a look at how much was removed. I don’t get the lugging in the engine nearly as bad as I used to.

In other news,
Got my pops cobra 142 GTL back from Chris out in Ontario. I installed a Sirio new tornado on his garage. Was getting a ton of common mode noise back at the radio. Used palomar engineering’s method to verify. After picking up some line isolators from them we dropped the noise from a S5-7 down to a S1! I wasn’t sure we would see that much of an improvement but I am more than pleased. Next step for that project is to get it off the temporary mount and onto the 40ft crank up tower that has been sitting in storage. But that’s a story for another thread.
 

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My apologies,
I just realized it was your install we saw the other day. It's been crazy and my mind isn't all there.

Looking at that above answers most questions Iasked. I'd be in line with Mtrushmore.
The BIG 3 upgrade as we call it in the car audio world. Look it up on YouTube. Battery(ies), cable, and alternator upgrade are a must.
Just talking to my son a couple of days ago. He has had big audio in his cars, yep he mentioned the big three.
He showed me a cable crimper tool he has, got me thinking hmmm
 
I would use 1 or 2 quage from battery positive and negative to power distributing block under dash. I would run 4ga from the block to the radio if I could. Space matters.

I install separate fuses on positive and negative line at them power block. As system grows I fuse at the battery for total on the distribution block.

I always upgrde power regulator transistor as well if it is a weak link I do not know your modern 2970N3 well enough to know if that is an issue.

If the radio was not set up by a moron and was properly aligned not CB golden screwdrivered you should consider setting the RF power at 12 O'Clock and letting the radio swing. Easier on the radio, your poor little Carola's power system and your overall talk power.

An analogy buff types like to break up workouts into things like "Legs and Back Day" "Chest and Arms Day" etc....They never stop to think though that every day is kidney day, liver day, sllen day etc......Likewise CB'er's never stop and think that every day is starter day, headlight day, coil on plug day, fuel pump day etc...... Eccono cars never get beefy alternators that trucks and sports cars and SUV's get. Engineers never say " You know what I bet guys buying our entry level car are going to be installing 5000 watt car audio system, twoing package, power inverter to run welder, tons of PIAA lights, a winch oh and 200w rf amplifer and CB!". AS my sisister in-law would say " I am not saying I am just saying!".....LOL
 

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