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My latest project.

G-Golly Wally

WDX 719 SE Oklahoma
I Support WorldwideDX.com!
Nov 5, 2008
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Southeastern Oklahoma
I've had a wood stove that belonged to my dad for about 5 years. I finally decided to hook it up and get some heat going in the shop. Turns out to be more work than I planned and a lot more money. My chimney ended up being 7 inches short ( story of my life ) and I wasn't about to pay $150 for another 36 inch extension so after a little thinking (my weakness) I decided to make my own extension. I took single wall stove pipe and added it to the Duravent chimney to make the chimney taller. I had to modify the chimney cap a little and and use two pieces of 6 inch stove pipe to make the home brew double wall extension. I think it turned out pretty decent and it should work.
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I woulda put the fire on stand made of a couple of cinder blocks, but yeah!
If I'm stepping in what you're laying down, that would put my double wall chimney starting almost even with the roof. Because about 8 inches of that stainless steel chimney is below the roof line, and me thinking i had enough chimney i already had myself locked in needing to buy an extension. But i enjoyed modifying some things to accommodate my need. It's not the prettiest chimney, but I'm satisfied with the outcome. And those supports are from the scrap I've kept around just incase. I also used those for the supports on my co phased ground plane. They wanted an arm and leg for store bought supports also.
 
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The indoors portion of the pipe to the stove, I assume, is single wall that doesn't lock together. If so, I suggest adding a few screws to hold them together.

Throughout a lifetime of wood burning, I've had about 5 backfires. Lets say you left the draft open too far for too long and you get the stove really hot. If you then shut it down too fast (setting draft to normal or closing ash drawer), the wood is still hot enough to break down at the same rate it was before, but now with limited oxygen. This causes incomplete combustion and carbon monoxide buildup and creates an explosion hazard. As the starved mixture cools, it will draw fresh air down the chimney and mix with the carbon monoxide, and when the ratio is right, BOOM! If you don't have your pipes screwed together, you'll get a house full of smoke and embers when they fly apart. You'll have a raging fire and no chimney connected. I've never gotten sick from carbon monoxide leaking out of the stove, but it will definitely cause a backfire under the right conditions.

There might be a small issue with your modified pipe. I see an air gap at the bottom of the outer layer where the sizes don't match. You might want to seal this up somehow. The top is the coldest part and will therefore condense the most creosote. An air gap will accelerate this by not allowing the top section to stay warm. The brush might have a hard time cleaning this section if not cleaned regularly.

When you do sweep your chimney, that black creosote crap is cancerous, so try not to breathe it in.
 
The indoors portion of the pipe to the stove, I assume, is single wall that doesn't lock together. If so, I suggest adding a few screws to hold them together.

Throughout a lifetime of wood burning, I've had about 5 backfires. Lets say you left the draft open too far for too long and you get the stove really hot. If you then shut it down too fast (setting draft to normal or closing ash drawer), the wood is still hot enough to break down at the same rate it was before, but now with limited oxygen. This causes incomplete combustion and carbon monoxide buildup and creates an explosion hazard. As the starved mixture cools, it will draw fresh air down the chimney and mix with the carbon monoxide, and when the ratio is right, BOOM! If you don't have your pipes screwed together, you'll get a house full of smoke and embers when they fly apart. You'll have a raging fire and no chimney connected. I've never gotten sick from carbon monoxide leaking out of the stove, but it will definitely cause a backfire under the right conditions.

There might be a small issue with your modified pipe. I see an air gap at the bottom of the outer layer where the sizes don't match. You might want to seal this up somehow. The top is the coldest part and will therefore condense the most creosote. An air gap will accelerate this by not allowing the top section to stay warm. The brush might have a hard time cleaning this section if not cleaned regularly.

When you do sweep your chimney, that black creosote crap is cancerous, so try not to breathe it in.
Yes, it's single wall . And thanks for the heads up. I was thinking about using screws on the stove pipe just because it's a pretty good run up to the ceiling in my shop and I thought it may make me feel better about the stability of it. But now I'll definitely use some screws in the stove pipe. Yes there is a gap there, I think I can get it alittle tighter and sealed. My weather conditions were a little windy and cold yesterday . I still have some work to do on the stove before I can use it .
 
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