When I got my wizard built amp the main reason I got it was due to the fact I could run a 400 or 500 watt dk. Most Ham amps are made for ssb and wont handle much dk. I always hear others say get an ameritron or compareable amp but dont talk about the deadkey issue on AM. Is there a ham grade amp out there that will take a decent dk and if so what is it. What will the bigger ameritrons handle as far as dk goes? Thanks and remember im a chicken bander so dont go too high tech LOL.
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Name brand amateur amp
- Thread starter Mr Clean
- Start date
B
BOOTY MONSTER
Guest
is there a dead key issue with ham amps ???
or is there just an issue with some folks not knowing how to operate a real amp ?
or is there just an issue with some folks not knowing how to operate a real amp ?
Give http://www.ameritron.com/Product.php?productid=AL-1500 a try.
1/2 hour continuous carrier: 1500 watts
30 second continuous carrier: 2500 watts
1/2 hour PEP two-tone test: 2500 watts plus
30 second PEP two-tone test: 2500 watts plus
1/2 hour continuous carrier: 1500 watts
30 second continuous carrier: 2500 watts
1/2 hour PEP two-tone test: 2500 watts plus
30 second PEP two-tone test: 2500 watts plus
I know how to use real amps booty and it takes alitte more than throwing the switch to on like yours so this question may be over your head unless you ask somebody else. Seeing how you wanted to add nothing to the post more than telling me how dumb I am.. I didnt post this for a post in how stupid I am im asking about amps. And I have ran them off and on for 37 years and only smoked one when I was much younger
. It dosent mater how you tune it if its not built to run that way. I was really wanting to know how much dk I could run with a ameritron AL-1200 and be on the safe side running it that way every day. PS ive had a Heathkit SB200 and havent tore it up in about 10 years booty do I pass your test?
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Mr. Clean,
I'll apologize to start with because you won't like this answer.
There are a couple of things that I take for granted as an amplifier user. One of those things is that the signal fed to that amplifier has to be constructed properly. In the case of AM mode, that means about a 4:1 modulation to carrier ratio. Which 'translates' to about a 2:1 power ratio. I also don't try tuning an amplifier with a less than 'normal' input signal. For AM, that means that the input signal isn't just the carrier, it's the carrier and modulation. I also use an input signal to the mic input of the radio that's a constant level (mini-signal generator). That means that I'm tuning that amplifier at full input power levels for maximum output power. That's not really true unless I've done it before on that particular antenna and frequency, so that I know it will take it. If I haven't 'been there' before, I'll start off at lower input power and work up to normal, or maximum power input. That procedure will work well for any combination I can think of (radio/amplifier/antenna/etc.).
So how do you know when you get to the 'max' point? On an amplifier such as that 'AL-1200' it's pretty easy, you pay attention to the meters on that amplifier, NOT just the watt meter measuring output power! Those meters will tell you plate voltage (fairly constant), and grid current (the biggy!). A 3CX1200(A7?) has definite limits for grid current and you do NOT want to exceed them! All tubes have those limits, it helps a huge lot if you know what they are for the particular tube(s) you are using. It's an even better idea to never get close to those limits, thing last a lot longer that way.
There are some 'catches' in all that. I'm not using a typical CB radio. Once the proper modulation level is set, I don't mess with it to try to get 'more' signal, it stays put at probably 85% modulation. It takes a little time if you have to 'work up' to full power for the first time, but not all that much time at all. It ain't, and never will be "plug-n-play". Having found out the hard way about those 'limits' for grid currents, etc, I do pay attention to them. (Want a few 'dead' tubes?? I got some. A '3cx1200' won't work, but '3-500's make real nice decorative patio lights.) That "mini-signal generator" is just a tone generator, nothing very expensive. They are very nice thingys to have around. If you really wanna get 'fancy', try a 'two-tone' generator. Or if you're as cheap as me, a telephone dial-tone will work.
Don't want to run full power? Drop the input power and re-tune.
A 3cx1200 is a pretty 'forgiving' tube. The '3cx1500' is not forgiving at all. And there are gobs of other tubes that I have no experience with that fall all around those two.
You can take 'short cuts', but only after you are familiar with the behavior of your particular set up. Taking one of those 'short cuts' before becoming familiar with things is a sure way of adding to that string of decorative patio lights, you know?
- 'Doc
I'll apologize to start with because you won't like this answer.
There are a couple of things that I take for granted as an amplifier user. One of those things is that the signal fed to that amplifier has to be constructed properly. In the case of AM mode, that means about a 4:1 modulation to carrier ratio. Which 'translates' to about a 2:1 power ratio. I also don't try tuning an amplifier with a less than 'normal' input signal. For AM, that means that the input signal isn't just the carrier, it's the carrier and modulation. I also use an input signal to the mic input of the radio that's a constant level (mini-signal generator). That means that I'm tuning that amplifier at full input power levels for maximum output power. That's not really true unless I've done it before on that particular antenna and frequency, so that I know it will take it. If I haven't 'been there' before, I'll start off at lower input power and work up to normal, or maximum power input. That procedure will work well for any combination I can think of (radio/amplifier/antenna/etc.).
So how do you know when you get to the 'max' point? On an amplifier such as that 'AL-1200' it's pretty easy, you pay attention to the meters on that amplifier, NOT just the watt meter measuring output power! Those meters will tell you plate voltage (fairly constant), and grid current (the biggy!). A 3CX1200(A7?) has definite limits for grid current and you do NOT want to exceed them! All tubes have those limits, it helps a huge lot if you know what they are for the particular tube(s) you are using. It's an even better idea to never get close to those limits, thing last a lot longer that way.
There are some 'catches' in all that. I'm not using a typical CB radio. Once the proper modulation level is set, I don't mess with it to try to get 'more' signal, it stays put at probably 85% modulation. It takes a little time if you have to 'work up' to full power for the first time, but not all that much time at all. It ain't, and never will be "plug-n-play". Having found out the hard way about those 'limits' for grid currents, etc, I do pay attention to them. (Want a few 'dead' tubes?? I got some. A '3cx1200' won't work, but '3-500's make real nice decorative patio lights.
) That "mini-signal generator" is just a tone generator, nothing very expensive. They are very nice thingys to have around. If you really wanna get 'fancy', try a 'two-tone' generator. Or if you're as cheap as me, a telephone dial-tone will work. Don't want to run full power? Drop the input power and re-tune.
A 3cx1200 is a pretty 'forgiving' tube. The '3cx1500' is not forgiving at all. And there are gobs of other tubes that I have no experience with that fall all around those two.
You can take 'short cuts', but only after you are familiar with the behavior of your particular set up. Taking one of those 'short cuts' before becoming familiar with things is a sure way of adding to that string of decorative patio lights, you know?
- 'Doc
Its not something I see me getting real soon but I have started saving for something. I have been running a wizard as you might already know and it has worked well for this old chicken bander. Hooked to the beam 150 mile plus surface wave contacts are now getting alot more of a normal thing and I know the antenna is most of it but would like to try a ameritron. I really dont need more but I do like trying different things but this small wizard is really all I need. I know some dont think these are real amps but mine has served me well. Thanks for your help and I dont know it all for sure but do know enough to know not to run things on the ragged edge. Thanks W5LZ. I run the wizard at a 500 watt dk and 1800 or do pep on a diawa meter with true pep. On avg is doing 350 dk. 550 or so under mod.
i dont have any patio lights
i been using mine in this modified heathkit220 since 85 and still going strong
maybe one day i get me a patio then i can get some 3-500zg patio lights
i would put my patio light case up against that 1200 and the 1500
i been using mine in this modified heathkit220 since 85 and still going strong
maybe one day i get me a patio then i can get some 3-500zg patio lights
i would put my patio light case up against that 1200 and the 1500
Mr. Clean,
The average legal limit ham amplifier you can buy today won't run on AM with much more carrier then you have now. The "big" ham amps commercially available are centered around power supplies that can make about 2.5 KW PEP intermittently. That means about 625 watts maximum carrier in these applications. With normal AM the ham legal limit keeps you at about 375 watts carrier so the amps do have headroom when run like this. If you want more carrier from a ham amp you'll be looking at some pricey exports, custom builds, or older "boat anchor" AM gear built before the AM 1500 watt PEP limit.
If I get one it may not run like W5LZ would run it but bet it will sound good just the same. I dont take radio as serious as some but do like to sound good. The hobby is different to everyone and im in it for the fun of it all and to make contacts. 888 im running a Maco 105 H/V with Davis Buryflex 9914f. 58 ft to the boom. 67 ft to tip of antenna. Peace!
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