President Richard stock mic substitute

[Slowmover]

Rather listen to one a ol’ Dicks speech’s any day versus what’s come since.

At least TRIED to sound “Presidential”.

Hey, there ya go, RWB, you can do your sound checks reading a script of the (infamous) “Checkers” speech (from his VP days under Ike).

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[Slowmover]

Not really sure why those pictures multiplied like that...

Shoot, really? Riverman, Redbeard & I gotta remind you what a double snoz -full of Mercaptan-laced NG will do? (Ha!)

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[Handy Andy]

Shoot, really?

(Ha!)

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Why do you post my initials like that?

 

[Eldorado828]

So maybe a resistor swap in the location the video shows? I remember doing that in the old connex 4300hp to get more range in the modulation potentiometer.

 

[Eldorado828]

For those whom may need to know...

View attachment 35171

Hope this clears up the Modulation Secrets that radio USED to have...

View attachment 35172​

Mr Ha no pun intended lol, thank you sir!

 

[Handy Andy]

Not a SWAP - you remove the resistor - that tiny chip is a 0.040 size - so if you can even remove it, is quite a feat...

 

[Eldorado828]

Not a SWAP - you remove the resistor - that tiny chip is a 0.040 size - so if you can even remove it, is quite a feat...

I brought the radio in with me so I'll have to take a look tonight and decide if it's within my capabilities.

 

[Eldorado828]

Handy Andy, it's like a sesame seed! Here's what I found and even set an 1/8 watt thru hole resistor there for reference. I don't know if I'm brave enough, very little room for error.

 

[Redbeard U812]

Nowhere as of yet for the gearkeeper as you can see.

Try a thin piece of metal. Maybe 1"x4". Bend it 90 deg at 1 inch. Drill a hole in bent over piece. Slide the 3" section between headliner and the overhead storage. Attach gearkeeper. No drilling into overhead console, and you can slide it wherever you need it.

Wish I had an overhead console like that in my Ram 3500.

 

[Slowmover]

Try a thin piece of metal. Maybe 1"x4". Bend it 90 deg at 1 inch. Drill a hole in bent over piece. Slide the 3" section between headliner and the overhead storage. Attach gearkeeper. No drilling into overhead console, and you can slide it wherever you need it.

Wish I had an overhead console like that in my Ram 3500.

I recently did a search for one. Pillar to pillar. No luck.
Gotta drive a MaxiPad to have one.

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[Redbeard U812]

I recently did a search for one. Pillar to pillar. No luck.
Gotta drive a MaxiPad to have one.

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I found couple but they don't fit a Ram. Could find some aluminum and build one. I started some drawings. But have many other projects going on.

 

[snippits75]

When checking it over on the bench and after turning up the modulation in the service menu you'll can see it start to swing when the limiter catches it and brings it back down.

Same thing the Ronald does. Turn down the RF power low to drive an amp, and the limiter slams the brakes.

 

[Handy Andy]

If you can read that chip and it says 102 - then you've got the one they claim IS THE ONE TO REMOVE...

To me, the MOD circuit is similar to the ones used by PC-122 and others where a Difference signal is generated then applied to a differential amplifier - and hence your clamping problem

Galaxy does similar but use it for their Envelope Control - when you change carrier - the drive level output from the Sense circuit is also reduced, so to compensate, they simply "rebias" the comparator input with the new power level and you still have the same level of scale.

To solve that problem we have to remove that Envelope Control transistor...

On these - it may not be as easy - for they did set these up with circuits that "hang up" if they have no place to go - so if you remove a part - that may make matters worse and the radio won't even work at all.



But I did find the AM Regulator in the schematic - Note the AMMOD line - it's the output side of this circuit and so the line is labeled as such in the schematic over by where the Mod Amp is.

As part of that "fool-resistant" design - the Mod clamp circuit simply uses the diode a lot like the PC-122 and Cobra designs using the Diode to clamp - by flowing into the Transistor that operates the limiter AMC control higher up (relative term - towards the center of the page) in the Schematic. There isn't a true variable applied here - just the bias setting for DC-level and then when you modulate the AVG DC bias level drops because the Audio is mixing in with it, making it unsteady and so the power appears to drop - so that is where it gets the "power" to drop so quickly it's clamping - the AVG power detect that the diode sees in comparison to normal DC bias.

IT may be easier to force a recovery of the limiter action by placing a low-value resistor ACROSS the diode instead...that way the clamping ACTION is not one-way all the time - you can recover to AVG faster if you provide a path for the power to be recouped before the next clamping action occurs.

 

[Eldorado828]

If you can read that chip and it says 102 - then you've got the one they claim IS THE ONE TO REMOVE...

To me, the MOD circuit is similar to the ones used by PC-122 and others where a Difference signal is generated then applied to a differential amplifier - and hence your clamping problem

Galaxy does similar but use it for their Envelope Control - when you change carrier - the drive level output from the Sense circuit is also reduced, so to compensate, they simply "rebias" the comparator input with the new power level and you still have the same level of scale.

To solve that problem we have to remove that Envelope Control transistor...

On these - it may not be as easy - for they did set these up with circuits that "hang up" if they have no place to go - so if you remove a part - that may make matters worse and the radio won't even work at all.

View attachment 35196

But I did find the AM Regulator in the schematic - Note the AMMOD line - it's the output side of this circuit and so the line is labeled as such in the schematic over by where the Mod Amp is.

As part of that "fool-resistant" design - the Mod clamp circuit simply uses the diode a lot like the PC-122 and Cobra designs using the Diode to clamp - by flowing into the Transistor that operates the limiter AMC control higher up (relative term - towards the center of the page) in the Schematic. There isn't a true variable applied here - just the bias setting for DC-level and then when you modulate the AVG DC bias level drops because the Audio is mixing in with it, making it unsteady and so the power appears to drop - so that is where it gets the "power" to drop so quickly it's clamping - the AVG power detect that the diode sees in comparison to normal DC bias.

IT may be easier to force a recovery of the limiter action by placing a low-value resistor ACROSS the diode instead...that way the clamping ACTION is not one-way all the time - you can recover to AVG faster if you provide a path for the power to be recouped before the next clamping action occurs.

Ok Andy, so I can't read it but I'm sure it's the one going off of the diagram and schematic but before I remove it are you referring to diode d300 almost like some do the "swing mod" on the rci boards?

I think I can tackle the resistor removal but once it's done I'm not so sure that I could replace it if this doesn't work. Can anyone else confirm not the location but that the removal will in fact only remove the limiters function. What got me was when you said "On these - it may not be as easy - for they did set these up with circuits that "hang up" if they have no place to go - so if you remove a part - that may make matters worse and the radio won't even work at all."

 

[Eldorado828]

Try a thin piece of metal. Maybe 1"x4". Bend it 90 deg at 1 inch. Drill a hole in bent over piece. Slide the 3" section between headliner and the overhead storage. Attach gearkeeper. No drilling into overhead console, and you can slide it wherever you need it.

Wish I had an overhead console like that in my Ram 3500.

That's kind of what I was dreaming up. When removing the overhead console front panel there are some screws underneath it that hold other puzzle pieces in place. I was thinking of doing some steel bending so that it passes through the gap using one of those screws to anchor it and the other end sticking out once the panel is back on having a hole drilled for the gear keeper to hook onto. I think it might make for a clean installation if my bending skills are good enough.