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Discussion in 'General CB Services Discussion' started by Tweetybird, Sep 30, 2019.
What's a good starter one? I have a 30 to 60 watt is this suitable?
for actual PC Board use 30 watts could be okay... you will always have to use care, especially in desoldering... to avoid lifting traces.
I'm going to try to put in a photo link of what I bought earlier this year. As I recall this was about $160 maybe a bit more....but after having this.... I don't know how I ever lived without it.
Even if you can't get one like this, a temperature controlled iron is such a blessing. It maintains proper heat to melt the solder so you won't have QUITE so bad temp swings causing your iron to lose heat and not melt the solder well.
If you can get something like this... and you intend to do much of it....I WOULD. That desoldering side..... how can I put it.... once you locate the capacitor holes on the foil side of the PCB..... that desoldering iron turns a capacitor change into a 20 - 30 second exercise. That quick.... that easy.... and is somewhat easier on the board than 1) rubbing desoldering braid all over it or 2) using trigger release solder suckers which can vibrate when you release and cause pads to lift.
And here is an ad... looks like $175...... if you can go that much.... it is great.
That looks nice. Let's see how the brain cooperates on fixing stuff I have a cheap adjustable for now and have experienced trace lifting so I know what you meaN about that
I have used a cheap (disposable) 10$ walmart soldering iron for almost two years, I kept the tip as clean as possible (had to replace it a few times); learned to be delicate and use just enough heat.
Fight any urge to use the iron to push component leads out, don't apply pressure, you want to make contact but not destroy traces. Only keep the iron on as long as you need to.
Working with lead-free solder can be a real pain, as it takes more heat for the lead-free mixture to become liquid.
This combined with the fact that newer electronics/radios use thinner traces compared to the old stuff means you have to baby the newer PCB's, or traces will peel.
A Hakko 955B-02 works well for tip cleaning and as a discharge tray for excess solder.
Quality solder is important, I can get by with hardware store 60/40 solid rosin core, but
eutectic solder is where it's at for consistency.
199 can I see the rest of your bench?
It would be my pleasure. Let's see if this works....
I've been using a cheap weller station like this for about 10 years. I'm not building spaceships.
I use the small iron that comes with the kit for radio work and have larger irons for amp work.
I burned up three of those. NEVER again will I purchase one of those.
I have been running the same Hakko 936 since 2005 and it's still going strong.
keep the tips clean and use the right tip for the job and it will last you a very long time.
be careful though, there are a lot of hakko clones out there.
I must have got a good one. I'll just pick up a light switch/dimmer from home depot if this one fails.
I have an Xytronics jobby for about 7 years now. Does everything I need it to do.
Light dimmers work great. They make a small one that's attached to an extension cord. I made a Sharpie mark on it to indicate the lower desired heat level. Coupled with an old 30w iron that's too hot otherwise, it's my go box alternative instead of taking my solder station with me.
The desolder iron is what I need. These r52 relays look tricky for a newbie. On my 300a project.
Any good desoldering vacuum guns that are stand alone? I'm starting to get sick of using so much braid. Don't mean to hijack just curious.
I’m using a Hakko FR-301 Desoldering Tool and love it.