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Texas Ranger 696 Freedom One

jsj72

jsj72

Member
Apr 13, 2008
28
1
13
The Bluegrass State
I was wondering where I can get the components in the following posts to upgrade my 696.If possible,I'd like to get them from the same place to save on shipping.Thanks for any help.

''Power Amp Improvement - Q54

This is the best improvement you can make to this chassis. The stock device is a 2SB754, which is a 60-watt, 7A power amp device. This does fine for stock radios. However, in order to stabilize the voltage on the board after improving the RF output and boosting the modulation, the 2SB817 becomes the better choice. The 2SB817 is a 100-watt, 12A device which allows greater voltage stability for the entire radio as a whole. I ran my test DX959 with the stock device and noticed quite a bit of wobble and light dimming. After replacement, the radio responded with almost no blinking, zero wobble and a healthy increase in RF output as well as swing. Replacing this device also allows you to increase the input voltage to 14.5VDC, provided you also replace all the 10V caps in this section of the board to 16V ones.

AM AF Amplifier Improvement - Q55

This is another improvement, which has previously been published for the EPT690010Z. The stock AF Amplifier is the 2SA473. Replacing this with the 2SA1012-0 or the ECG153 will improve the clarity and volume of the modulation. It will also run much cooler which provides stability for the device. If you plan to use the DX959 or DX949 with the provided stock microphone, this upgrade is highly suggested for maximum AM modulation.''
 

RF PARTS has both of them in stock.

I've also had success with eBay, but you'll need to wait for them to come from places like Hong Kong, Thailand, Macau, etc..... and BEWARE of counterfeits.

For the 2SA1012, NTE makes an acceptable equivalent: NTE153, but I haven't found an acceptable sub for the 2SB817.

Also, the 2SB754 has gone out of production and Galaxy/Ranger have been subbing the 2SB827. The 827 is NOT an upgrade to the 754; it too is only a 60W device. You will need to upgrade the 827 with the 2SB817, a true 100W device. Again: BEWARE COUNTERFEITS, because a knock-off 817 will probably be an 827 (or equivalent lesser 60W device). Get the real-deal 2SB817 from a reputable place like RF Parts and you can't go wrong.

P.S.: RF Parts has (I believe) a $25.00 minimum order, so stock up.
 
jsj72 said:
Thanks stallion.I found the 817 but I couldn't find the 153.Do you happen to have a link.Thanks
Click to expand...

Cables & Connectors, Inc is where I go whenever I'm coming home from Hartford, CT. They carry the complete line of NTE, and they do quite a bit of internet business.

Now that I'm traveling to NYC I rarely get up there anymore, as I am in Southern CT.

Hope that helps. You could always do a google search on the NTE part number and you'll come up w/hundreds of sites, maybe one locally to you.

TandyCorp (RadioShack) used to offer a service in the store whereby they could order just about any part u wanted, albeit at an (often) outrageous price. Dunno if they do that anymore. Heck, at my local RadioShack, if it's NOT a cell phone, seems like they aren't too keen about helping us anymore. In fact, I know more about their parts bins than THEY do.... it's funny.

Lemme know if you find what you're looking for. BTW: You're gonna LIKE the 696, FINE RIG!!!
 
Thanks stallion.The 1969 final shot and tomorrow I should have the parts to convert to mosfet.I'm adding a 2030 mosfet.I can't hardly wait to get it up and running again.
 
jsj72 said:
I know that the factory driver can be used but I was wondering.What would be a better driver for the 2030 final?
Click to expand...

As far as I know, most 696's I've seen have a 2SC2166 driving a single 2SC1969.

I've never done a MOSFET mod on a Galaxy Chassis, just the Cobra 25/29 (and Uniden equivalents), although I've seen the newer Galaxy's with the MOSFETS already in them.

I'd say "follow the instructions". If you're worried about developing enough power to drive the MOSFET, the 2166 is MORE than adequate.

Since the 696 is the same chassis as the DX-949, here's all u need to do for the ERF-2030: http://www.cbtricks.com/miscellaneo.../galaxy_dx949_959_2547_erf2030_mod_rev1-2.pdf

I'd say leave the driver alone for now. Later (if u wanna get 'fancy') you can try a dual finals mod. But, based upon what I've seen w/the factory mosfetted Galaxy's, you should have no trouble developing 30W SSB and over 20W Peak on AM (from a 5-7 W deadkey) with a single ERF-2030.

Keep us posted; can't wait to hear your results!
 
Sorry for the long delay.I got the 2030 and components installed.I keyed up and was showing a 2 watt dead key.As soon as I started to modulate I lost everything again:eek:I checked everything and come to find out it wasn't the final it was the driver that was bad.I had one laying around;put it in and 18 watts am & 22 ssb.I think it should do a little more but I'm just happy it's working right now.One more question.The vr18 pot is missing and their is a resistor in it's place(this adjusts the deadkey watts).I was wondering if this is factory and can I switch it out and put a pot out of another radio in its place?Thanks again
 
jsj72 said:
Sorry for the long delay.I got the 2030 and components installed.I keyed up and was showing a 2 watt dead key.As soon as I started to modulate I lost everything again:eek:I checked everything and come to find out it wasn't the final it was the driver that was bad.I had one laying around;put it in and 18 watts am & 22 ssb.I think it should do a little more but I'm just happy it's working right now.One more question.The vr18 pot is missing and their is a resistor in it's place(this adjusts the deadkey watts).I was wondering if this is factory and can I switch it out and put a pot out of another radio in its place?Thanks again
Click to expand...

On the Freedom One there is NO variable RF power output, so there is no need for a VR18, which would be AM LOW POWER OUT setting. In the TR696 there is merely an AM HIGH POWER OUT setting: VR14. So, no need to change that fixed resistor for a variable, as it won't do anything.

If you want to put variable AM output power on your rig, you would have to remove VR18 and run wires from it to an external (through the rig casing) potentiometer.

Hope that helps.

BTW: CONGRATS on getting your mod to work! Have fun with it!!!
 
Thanks stallion.I'm glad the 696 is up and running but one thing has me stumped.I'm not getting any more power with the 2030 than I was with the stock 1969.I know that this radio wasn't designed to be a pwer house but it looks like it should be doing more with the Fet installed.:confused:
 
jsj72 said:
Thanks stallion.I'm glad the 696 is up and running but one thing has me stumped.I'm not getting any more power with the 2030 than I was with the stock 1969.I know that this radio wasn't designed to be a pwer house but it looks like it should be doing more with the Fet installed.:confused:
Click to expand...

18W AM and 22 SSB on a single final'ed MOSFET is pretty respectable, considering it was set up from the factory with NPN bipolars.

The new Galaxy's, which come from the factory with a MOSFET already installed, have had circuit redesigns to accomodate the MOSFET; circuit changes which help to more fully take advantage of the MOSFET & are therefore more capable (slightly) of developing more power.

For example, the new Galaxys, instead of running a 2166 driver are using an IRF520 driver, driving an IRF520 single final. They have designed the driver and the PREdriver stages to accomodate the MOSFETS.

When we perform the MOSFET mod in the field on this chassis however, we are only changing the FINAL, and therefore are limited by the predriver/driver stages (set up for NPN Bipolars.) That's WHY the new radios, when turned up, develop slightly more power (i.e.: 25W AM / 35W SSB) than the MOSFET conversions.

If more power is absolutely necessary, one can either perform a DUAL FINAL (MOSFET or NPN) mod, or go ALL MOSFETs, to include the driver plus dual FINALS; all IRF520's. For dual finals mods you will have to remove the factory riveted serial number tag and install a heat sink in that approx. location. It's alot of work for only slightly more gain.

Sounds like you got your radio working good; I wouldn't change a thing.
 

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