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TS-700A - proper use of the all those knobs and other newb questions

K

kd0fx

W9WDX Amateur Radio Club Member
Aug 16, 2009
160
2
28
EN10bt
This is my first experience with any kind of older rig, and the manual seems to assume that I should know certain things.

It dawned on me that the drive knob isn't some kind of power control, but a tuning control that is used in conjunction with the Final knob. I'm not sure exactly how to use it.
If I wanted to hit the 146.94 local repeater, I think I should tune the final to 146, and then the drive to 900? Or should I try to adjust the drive to 940?

I also do not grasp what the RF Gain knob does. It has some relationship to the S-meter. If the RF Gain is turned fully clockwise, the s-meter decreases. The farther I turn it to counter-clockwise, the farther the s-meter deflects. Is the RF Gain knob attenuating or amplifing the received signals? To complicate my thinking, the s-meter hovers around 3-4 units even while the RF Gain is fully clockwise. Does this mean I am receiving some signal that is causing the s-meter to deflect (random noise)? Is that normal behavior? Or is something malfunctioning? I'm using home built feed lines and antenna, so I could be introducing signal there - first attempt at building either. Should I purchase some retail feedline and antenna to see if that clears up or could that have no bearing on the matter?

Is there any place to source the tone crystals still?

If I managed to calibrate my diamond sx-400 correctly, I'm only putting out 4 watts. Is there a way to bring this back to its 10 watt spec? Or is that all I'm gonna get out of it?

Thanks,
:confused:Dave:confused:
 

You have the manual?
If not here you go.
http://www.repeater-builder.com/kenwood/pdfs/ts-700-op-man.pdf

Turn the RF gain fully clock-wise. When you rotate the RF gain CCW it (so to speak) turns the receiver down. Makes strong stations weaker.

I suggest reading through that manual and get your self familiar with the functions. It will help you out in the long run. I can not say I have ever ran one of these but it looks similar with other transceivers of this era.

Let us know.
 
Yes, I've got a copy of the manual. I just don't understand everything it says.
You're saying the RF Gain does function like an attenuator. OK, that makes sense then. Is it normal for the s-meter to show some units if the gain is turned fully ccw? I would expect that to kill any kind of signal coming in.
Edit, wait , I think I got it backwards. It's working in conjuction with the s-meter. It's like the RF Squelch on my FT-60. When I turn it ccw and the s-meter advances, it's not actually showing receiving signals, it's showing the squelch threshold I am setting?
 
Yup, When turning it down the s meter climbs. Standard on a lot of rigs.
If no one else chimes in I will read through the manual tonight when I get home and see if I can answer your other questions.

Some of those manuals are like reading stereo instructions in Japanese
 
Would appreciate it.
I'm still wondering why I show a level of 3 or 4 s units even with the RF Gain fully CW. I would expect it to be @ 0 units, to mirror the extreme travel the knob is set at. Maybe that's all the farther it can go. I'll examine my other settings to see if something else is effecting it.
 
kd0fqx said:
Would appreciate it.
I'm still wondering why I show a level of 3 or 4 s units even with the RF Gain fully CW. I would expect it to be @ 0 units, to mirror the extreme travel the knob is set at. Maybe that's all the farther it can go. I'll examine my other settings to see if something else is effecting it.
Click to expand...

It that with an antenna connected or disconected?
Disconnect the antenna and see if it drops.
 
Ha, that's exactly what I thought of when I got home. With the antenna disconnected, I get 0 deflection @ full CW, which is what I want. That should mean I have no internal problems, 3 possibilities left:
1) I really am receiving spurious signals. Not likely, but possible.
2) Bad connector(s) on the feed line. Possible.
3) Built a nasty ass antenna. Possible.
What would be a decent way to test the feed lines short of buying a replacement? Can a multi tester do that kind of work?
 
What is your swr on the antenna? If it is low that your feed line should be fine.
Then again what type of feed line are you using?

As far as the final knob set it to center. once you hear a station tune it a bit and you will see it affects the receive. The drive works on transmit so set it to correspond to the frequency you are on. It does not deviate power out put from what I read.
Looks like a good old rig but be careful with the vfo. Since it is analog and adjustable you can get out of frequency easy.
 
I'm using 50 ohm RG-8x with Pl259 connectors.
I took my feed line to Cert last night and cornered the guy who runs a telecommunications company. He thinks my cables look great, and I figure he's put enough of them together he should know :)
I did manage to bugger up one of the ends while I was showing him, so I need to redo that end tonight before I can play with this anymore. However, I'm much more confident about them now.
I'll remeasure the SWR tonight after I repair the feed line.
I did manage to figure out the FM Calibration tool last night. It's pretty slick and if it is still within spec, I was off by a few hertz.
 
The SO239 on my home made antenna had already let me down, won't stay attached (I blame myself). I ordered a retail antenna so I don't have to worry about my shoddy build quality while I'm trying to evaluate the radio. It's stupid to try to do something like this with so many variables unknown. So, guess I'll have to put this away till it comes in the mail. :mad:
 
I haven't given up on it, but I do want to make sure I have a known good unit. I'll be getting my soldering weapon out again this weekend to spif it up some.
It's just a simple wire J Pole made out of 450 ohm ladder line, supposedly 5/8 wave. It was fairly easy to make except soldering the so239, and just the center conductor at that. The negative had a nice little ring for me to take advantage of, but that damn center pin was just this short little barrel that barely had room for anything. Anyway, I think it was a cold solder joint, easily broke. I'll fix it.
 
I'll look at that. The other problem I see is that I have no strain relief for it, so any time I fiddled with the antenna/cable, it transmitted force directly to that joint.
I think I may strip the center conductor out of a piece of coax and try that.
 

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