well, i could only find a schematic for the PRO 510e, but the AMC is D14 in both the XL and the E models, so, im assuming the chassis are the same in other respects. (they most likely are the same on the inside)
to lower the deadkey, you need to lower the voltage to the driver and final transistors.
the way to do this is to add resistance in series with the voltage path to them.
in almost ALL AM only radios, this voltage is fed through the modulation transformer, then through an "anti spiking diode" and on to the driver and final collectors. (in the 510e, it is D7)
you can look at almost any schematic for an AM only CB radio, and find this voltage line without too much trouble.
first, find the audio chip. most likely, there will be a symbol for a transformer next to it.
find the line going from the transformer, through a rectifier diode (the black ones with the silver stripe on one end. usually labeled 1N4003 or something like that on the schematic), and follow this line all the way to the driver and final collectors to confirm that you have the right line.
the rectifier diode should never be removed and replaced with a resistor or a wire jumper, as this can cause a large voltage spike to reach the transformer and burn through the insulation.
to lower the voltage going to the driver and final transistors and thus, lower the deadkey, you can add more of these diodes in series with eachother, or add 1/2 watt resistors in series with this diode.
the resistor values will have to be determined experimentally, but i would start low, like around 47 ohms, and work up from there.
the higher the resistance, the lower the deadkey.
if you choose to go the diode route; be sure they are all facing the same way as the original diode.
if you choose to go with the resistor route, add the resistor(s) to the banded end of the diode.
the modulation will not be lowered because it is already being coupled through 1:1 because the diode is already conducting.
this technique can be applied to many radios that dont have a convenient way to lower the deadkey to match an amplifier input.
for the KL60, i would go for a 1 to 1.5 watt deadkey.
as for removing the AMC diode, D14; i would be careful with that.
some of these radios use condenser microphone elements and dont take well at all to overmodulation.
i would try it with the AMC intact first, and if it works decent, i would live with it.
good luck with it,
LC