Uniden PRO510XL tune and peak how to

[psycho]

Strange. Never thought I'd see advice like this on these (of all) forums. Clipping the limiter while, yes, will make you sound louder, will also make you sound like garbage, and bleed across mulitiple channels.

And don't even get me started on the fact that your neighbors are about to get to know you well. Add an amp, and the men in black might even pay a visit to your door.

Clip the limiter? EPIC FAIL.

And you know clipping the limiter on a 510 or 520 will make it sound like garbage because why? Because you said so? Let's not be so anal retentive...relax and breathe, it's a $50 radio.

 

[jimbr1]

Just an observation- from many posts that I've read on here and other website forums I was to believe that "clipping the limiter" would not be good for the uniden 510/520. Well I also read on a website by "screwdriver" from a reputable cb shop, if I read correctly that it was his opinion that it was ok to cut the limiter (no brands mentioned) and then adjust for appropriate modulation with a power mic so as not to overmodulate). This seemed to make the most sense to me. Well, again from my observation, a stock 4 watt dead key on a Uniden 520 (at least from my experimentation) will swing to about 10 watts pep according to my Radio Shack meter. With the limiter removed, it will swing to about 15-18 watts. I used a water dummy load and a scanner to listen to modulation- kept the power mic at level of 2-4 out of 10. also used the stock mic as well with good results. Neither sounded anything like a lot of the over-modulated super wack pack units that I sometimes hear. Also of note, the stock mic sounds very good with this unit- there was no detectable increase in pep with the power mic. The limiter on the newer 520 is a pain to access... there is a shield that must be removed and the diode is surface mounted beneath this shield...again...just my own observation....

 

[binrat]

I ran a 520 for awhile without clipping anything and found it to be very good for what it is. I did this " Locate the 2.7 ohm resistor in front of the final bias resistor(15 Ohm w/RF bead) and change it to a .47 Ohm. (DO NOT change the 15 Ohm resistor!!) " and used a DM452 mic on it. I saw about 16 watts pep out of it.

 

[Turbo T]

Picked up another 510, it was only doing like 2.5 watts dk/5-6 watt modulation.

Turned L6 until I got 4 watts, then unsoldered D14. Now it modulates to 10 watts. Did a check with the radio using another radio as a receive mule, didn't sound distorted. That was using a stock mic.

 

[Weasel78]

Is there a way to clip the modulation in the newer Pro 510 xl

 

[dave457]

How were you measuring your modulation?

 

[dave457]

As I said, how are you measuring your modulation?

 

[dave457]

You need a scope to do it properly

 

[9C1Driver]

Is there a way to clip the modulation in the newer Pro 510 xl

Not sure on the newer radio's. Your best bet might be to get a good power mic for it and be done.

 

[tecnicoloco]

As I said, how are you measuring your modulation?

Maybe he was using this to measure the modulation

AMM-SD1 Amplitude Modulation Monitor

 

[Bigboytoy]

Ok so what one is the final bias resistor what number is it on the board?

 

[Illahe]

Uniden Pro510xl

Okay, not much information out there. Recently modified the dead key by clipping the input of L204 (double check me). The coil is wound to the right of the final and its ferrite core. Next to it is a resistor and to the right is you power adjustment pot. Clip the wire coming up from the board about 1/4" and bend the loop feeding the winding. Place a 22ouF cap- leg on the wire you just bent up. solder a 100ohm for 1/2 watt dead key or less 60 ohm for a stronger dead key.

Flip the radio over and double check continuity to the center pin of your final and the leg your going to cut. Cary on...

Caution! Tight space, take the cam and put some shrink tubing on the body of the 220uF cap. Place the resistor body parallel to the cap + leg facing way from your joint. Wrap the resistor leg in a loop and solder it to the - leg. now take some shrink tubing and cover the other wire of the resistor leg 2/3 of the length. Bend it 180* and wrap it around the +. Make two loops in the cap legs tight and close to the body. If you place the back of the cap in the corner next to the final you can just squeeze it into the body without touching the final or the screws coming in on the case over. Swings hard! 73's!