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Volting a Cobra 148 GTL final?

Robb

Honorary Member Silent Key
Dec 18, 2008
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Silicon Valley CA, Storm Lake IA
How is this done?
Gains/disadvantages?
Are there different ways to do it?

I have a few 148's, and I heard that it works better on AM when this mod is done.
Does it affect SSB too?

Also, one of the 148's has the bias wire cut from TP8 and is soldered to the cathode of D44.
There is a resistor to one of the legs of the bias regulator TR37/2SC486 TO GROUND.
Is this the volting mod?
 
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This was sent to me - thanks!

"I found this on web.
148/Grant/2000/Madison etc. (MB8719 single final, dual conversion) transmitter modification package including NPC and final to linear mods.
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NOTE: When I do this I see the radio as having two sides; the solder side of the main board, and the parts side of the main board. The most efficient way to get this done is to do all the solder side work first, then do the parts side work. The following steps are presented in that manner.
1. Remove TR24

This deactivates the modulation limiters in all modes. Use the front panel mic gain (aka dynamic) control to set the modulation percentage.
2. Add a solder bridge to the solder side of the board that effectively jumpers out R196. This is a quick way of replacing R196 with a jumper (reducing its value to zero ohms).
This increases the range of VR10 (AM dead-key power) so that the dead-key can be set to 1.5 to 2 watts later on.
3. Add a 10 uF 25 or higher volt electrolytic cap to these points: the positive leg goes to the trace that connects to pin 9 of the IC6 (the audio IC), and the negative leg goes to the R194/D63/R228 junction.
This is the mod that compresses the negative modulation peaks and allows the average power to increase based on the modulation percentage (aka the NPC mod).
(This is the end of the solder side work. The rest of the work is done on the parts side of the board.)
4. Set the driver bias to 50 mA. (Power up the radio, put it in LSB or USB, set the mic gain to minimum, remove the wire from test point 8, insert a milliamp meter in series between the test point (which is positive) and the wire, key the mic, and adjust VR9 until the meter reads 50 mA.)
5. Set the final bias to 100 mA. (Same instructions as in step 4 except the test point is test point 7, and the adjustment is VR8).
NOTE: On some of the newer radios the final bias can't be set higher than about 50 mA. The reason is that the value of R179 has been increased in order to decrease the effective range of VR8. To solve the problem, replace R179 with a 500 to 1000 ohm resistor.
6. Once the final bias has been set, unplug the DC power cord, put the final bias wire back on the test point, cut the final bias wire 1/4 inch above the connector, strip and tin 1/8 inch of the wire, tin the cathode (banded) leg of D55 (the reverse polarity diode), and solder the wire to D55. This assumes the test point connector is at the end of the wire that is furthest from the final transistor. On some of the newer models the test point connector is at the end of the wire closest to the final transistor. On those models, completely unsolder the wire at the end opposite the test point connector and solder it to D55.
This is the mod that converts the RF final stage to linear in all modes.
7. Power up the radio, put it in the AM mode, key the mic, and set VR10 (AM dead-key power adjustment) for about 1.5 watts.
8. Tune the RF chain coils (L38 and L45 through L48) for maximum peak (modulated) output power in the center of the band (that would be Channel 19 on a stock radio and Channel 40 on one that has the popular expanded frequency range of 26.815 to 28.045).
If you have a favorite channel that is more than 30 channels from 19 or 40, do your tuning on that channel.
9. Double check the dead-key power. It should be around 2 watts. If it is higher than 2 watts, use VR10 to cut it back to between 1.5 and 2 watts. Don't overdo it. Keep in mind that the carrier (aka dead-key) power increases up to 10+ watts with modulation, so there's absolutely no point in having the dead-key power any higher than is required to reliably key an amplifier. Most amps will key reliably with as little as 1/2 watt of dead-key power. If you overdo the dead-key, the transmitted audio will sound weak because the negative modulation peaks will not reach 100%.
The following numbers are what you should expect. However, since there is a lot of variation in CB test equipment setups, don't be alarmed if you don't see these exact numbers. These numbers are provided as a guideline to make sure you did the mods properly.
The dead-key wattage should be 1.5 to 2 watts. The maximum average power should be 10 to 12 watts. And the maximum peak power should be around 25 watts
 
I don't understand why people don't like volting finals on a 148/Grants? Side band the finals get 12 volts, on AM it only gets 6 volts. All you do is move TP7 to a 12 volt source. Most people recommend adjusting the final bias for 100ma instead of 50ma. Easy mod for a few more watts without doing the NPC-RC.

It does NOT affect sideband! Volting the final is not in the same category as the NPC mod.

Volt Final and cut R131, Thats all that ever needs to be done to a 148/Grant!

I usually get 20+ watts out on AM without the NPC crap! The 148/Grant swings way better than a cobra 25 or 29!
 
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what kind of difference can be had on TX doing this mod ?
does it help the radio sound better or TX farther ?
or just allow folks to over modulate more ?
 
what kind of difference can be had on TX doing this mod ?
does it help the radio sound better or TX farther ?
or just allow folks to over modulate more ?

Just gives the finals 12 volts instead of 6, Just more watts out that's it.

EDIT: Grant XL is TP8 and the 148/2000 is TP7
 
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I have a 29LTD Classic. I sent it out and it has a variable, and modulation done by a pro. On my 25amp supply @ 12V I see it d/k 3W and swing to 7pep...on 15V however it d/k 3W and swings to +30Wpep..I use an MTA-20 Rat Shack digital meter on the peak setting. With my Silver Eagle D-104 I'm told it's also very loud and punchy.
you might find that if you give your 148 a little more voltage with a supply that has more than 8 amps it will perform better for you than some of those mods. I can't compare my 148GTL-DX
to a 148GTL/Grant because they're different rigs, although when I volt mine it performs better than when it only gets 12V.



3's
 
smackdown, they are talking about something else.
its not like volting an amp where you supply it with more voltage from the power supply, its an internal mod where the final transistor gets the full supply voltage on its collector instead of about 6 volts.


there is absolutely nothing wrong with volting the final in the 142/148 style chassis.
it does not affect SSB at all. the voltage takes a different path in AM than it does in SSB, and the final already gets the full supply voltage in SSB in stock form.

it will not make your radio sound like crap unless it already does.

it will not stress your radio out unless you keep the deadkey higher than about 4 or 5 watts.

it will actually make the AM modulator transistor run cooler because now it only has to modulate the driver.

what kind of power gains are we talking about? on average, the difference between about 17 watts PEP to about 25 watts PEP.

not really a noticeable gain, but it can wake a sluggish amplifier up.
again, we're not even talking about a .5 S unit increase, so the answer is no; its not really needed, unless you just want to increase your PEP for the fun of it.

i dont run my radios with that mod, but its just because it doesnt really do all that much, but i have done it in the past, and had no problems with SSB or anything else.

i also agree that a good alignment/peaking of the TX coils and cutting R131 is all these radios need to sound amazing.
LC
 
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I think doing mods to learn more about radios or to see the results first hand is always fun but before attempting any mod I think people always need to ask themselves some questions regarding what they hope to accomplish.

In most cases when people analyze what it is they want (louder audio, more watts, etc) they'll find that they can accomplish most of the results without having to replace 10 different parts and retuning an entire radio. Especially if they spend a week messing with the radio only to match it up with a crappy antenna.

True story: When I lived in Canada there were two friends who both bought the same radios brand new from a local. The one guy spent a bunch of time working on his radio doing all the mods he could find listed online, swapping out all the parts for the different values and then got on the air and he was bragging about the swing and output (granted he was pretty loud and nasty sounding). His buddy got on the air and sounded almost as loud but with cleaner audio and a local says what did you do to your radio and the friend replied, "I turned up the modulation pot and switched out the stock mike for a power mike" :)

Of course there are some mods out there that are worth doing so never say never.
 

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