Hello i have a galaxy dx 2547 base i noticed my clarifier light is dim even i took the face off still dim any ideas? thanks.
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Galaxy Dx 2547
- Thread starter kaos513
- Start date
Try this link.
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/galaxy/dx2547/dx2547_ept254740z_display_pcb.htm
Not schematic yet, but the "Clarifier" LED is on the bottom right corner of the panel.
This is a dual LED - so considering - maybe one of the LED "lights" has failed.
PDF of a similar KM-23 device attached.
:+> Andy <+:
http://www.cbtricks.com/radios/galaxy/dx2547/dx2547_ept254740z_display_pcb.htm
Not schematic yet, but the "Clarifier" LED is on the bottom right corner of the panel.
This is a dual LED - so considering - maybe one of the LED "lights" has failed.
PDF of a similar KM-23 device attached.
:+> Andy <+:
The link shows that a dropping resistor of a value of 1K is used. Might be a bit steep (too much ohmic) in value for that part. but you also have a way out - you may be able to adjust the LED brightness let alone the color by changing the LED itself - PITA of course, but possible.
Cobras' like the 19 Plus - use a "dual LED" lamp with a common cathode. - the KM 23 SOT unit uses a Common Anode. - so if you wish, you can locate SOT 23 style lamps with dual LED design - in this fashion though, the LED's will usually use up all the current available for powering it thru one LED. This means you'll have to LOWER the value of the resistor to about 680 ohms. This may help with the brightness as well as load balancing - or one LED will "suck it all in" no guarantees.
When dealing with tiny things like these LED's - it is not clear on how they do up the "Branch network" to feed power to the LED chips welded to their "cups". May be better to install an LED lamp that uses a KNOWN voltage to feed it and just remove the resistor and install a jumper - this way the LED's you replace - would have their own internal dropping resistor and power feed network so you get a true drop in versus trying to figure
You can always view the voltage drop by using the Resistors' Feed side to ground - for if the Display board is having a current draw issue, with all those LED's - that would affect brightness of all the LED's in all parts of the display - channel selector - frequency counter - so if there is a resistive "element" creeping into the harness or the display board - the LED's with the longest runs usually start showing it. So as you would have 1's in the display taking less current than )'s or 8's - these "external" or perimeter LED's start to reflect changes in brightness. Even Audio volume and TX modes of heavy modulation would also cause the LED's to fluctuate.
If you're not seeing that, just a dim LED, then more than likely it's aging - or check the DIM switch function - that too is a big indicator (SIC) of the condition of the voltage regulation in the unit.
:+> Andy <+:
Cobras' like the 19 Plus - use a "dual LED" lamp with a common cathode. - the KM 23 SOT unit uses a Common Anode. - so if you wish, you can locate SOT 23 style lamps with dual LED design - in this fashion though, the LED's will usually use up all the current available for powering it thru one LED. This means you'll have to LOWER the value of the resistor to about 680 ohms. This may help with the brightness as well as load balancing - or one LED will "suck it all in" no guarantees.
When dealing with tiny things like these LED's - it is not clear on how they do up the "Branch network" to feed power to the LED chips welded to their "cups". May be better to install an LED lamp that uses a KNOWN voltage to feed it and just remove the resistor and install a jumper - this way the LED's you replace - would have their own internal dropping resistor and power feed network so you get a true drop in versus trying to figure
You can always view the voltage drop by using the Resistors' Feed side to ground - for if the Display board is having a current draw issue, with all those LED's - that would affect brightness of all the LED's in all parts of the display - channel selector - frequency counter - so if there is a resistive "element" creeping into the harness or the display board - the LED's with the longest runs usually start showing it. So as you would have 1's in the display taking less current than )'s or 8's - these "external" or perimeter LED's start to reflect changes in brightness. Even Audio volume and TX modes of heavy modulation would also cause the LED's to fluctuate.
If you're not seeing that, just a dim LED, then more than likely it's aging - or check the DIM switch function - that too is a big indicator (SIC) of the condition of the voltage regulation in the unit.
:+> Andy <+:
On a secondary note:
How is the operation of the Clarifier - Fine.
Any mods? Curious about the voltage across it.
J410 mounts FROM Clarifier board, it's PC board wiring goes to J411 ON Display (GN, F1 and F2) TO Main PCB (GN, F2 and F1) to J9 Main PCB. from that display board.
Might not be a bad idea to check the harness routings.
:+> Andy <+:
How is the operation of the Clarifier - Fine.
Any mods? Curious about the voltage across it.
J410 mounts FROM Clarifier board, it's PC board wiring goes to J411 ON Display (GN, F1 and F2) TO Main PCB (GN, F2 and F1) to J9 Main PCB. from that display board.
Might not be a bad idea to check the harness routings.
:+> Andy <+:
Well, may not hurt to measure Voltages if you can, that way you can make a baseline for comparisons.
One thing many miss in the LED display nomenclature (a.k.a - Datasheet) is the Lumens rating in CANDELA or in this case, mcd - milicandela.
A Lumen can also be described as Candela
You can read it here if you wish
So these lamps are not exactly glaringly bright - they are posted as 4 to 15 mcd in brightness and that is a considerable amount of variance and not too impressive for use in anything more than a "guiding light" in the darkest of rooms.
But if it were me, I'd be more into the VERIFICATION of my radios' power supply health - as in - double check the connections as well as look for ripple in the DC. You may not always hear the ripple, for there is plenty of RF and noise bypass in the audio line - but to cause the lamp to fail is my concern.
These are GaSp type lights - Gallium is a rare metal that melts at low temperature, they are sensitive to heat - so to have the chip dim or seem dimmer, may be related to a power supply regulation issue you may need to look into.
:+> Andy <+:
One thing many miss in the LED display nomenclature (a.k.a - Datasheet) is the Lumens rating in CANDELA or in this case, mcd - milicandela.
A Lumen can also be described as Candela
You can read it here if you wish
So these lamps are not exactly glaringly bright - they are posted as 4 to 15 mcd in brightness and that is a considerable amount of variance and not too impressive for use in anything more than a "guiding light" in the darkest of rooms.
But if it were me, I'd be more into the VERIFICATION of my radios' power supply health - as in - double check the connections as well as look for ripple in the DC. You may not always hear the ripple, for there is plenty of RF and noise bypass in the audio line - but to cause the lamp to fail is my concern.
These are GaSp type lights - Gallium is a rare metal that melts at low temperature, they are sensitive to heat - so to have the chip dim or seem dimmer, may be related to a power supply regulation issue you may need to look into.
:+> Andy <+:
So? If the lite isn't any dimmer? The consider the problem a "Feature" more than a "Quirk" or "Bug".
I will take notice to the light issue on the radio I just purchased will be picking it up in the morning. Got it all for less than 150.00 so it was a pretty good deal.Galaxy President DX 2547 Base
SWR Meter,
20 Amp Pyramid Power Supply
100 watt mobile amp
Antron 99 with Ground Plane kit
chrome D-104
30 ft tower
