Those are factory ground. You may need to add bonding. Many times those factory straps are not adequate.
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RADIO NOISE? High pitch whine!!!
- Thread starter Buzzard78945
- Start date
Those are factory ground. You may need to add bonding. Many times those factory straps are not adequate.
exhaust...? I do have an aftermarket 5inch exhaust nothing a quick jumper couldn't handle... can’t hurt to try I guess
I can always jumper anything back to the ground post on the battery and see if noise changes
bed, engine block, ECM, cab
I can take a pair of jumper cables and hook to negative post on battery and out it on a bare spot on any of those... but I’m still not understanding why it would put noise into my radio...?
Is it because that component is not properly grounded and putting its ground through somewhere else like back feeding? And that is some how getting to my radio???
Defiantly Worth a try!
stupid question why the exhaust?
I know these turbos have shaft bushings instead of bearings.. could shaft to bushing be causing noise???
Bonding is going from body parts to frame. You are missing the point. If you just go back to neg side of battery, which should be bonded to frame and block, there are other locations you are missing. Read the link on bonding. It's work. I've gone the same route, until I bonded everything my noise continued.
I’m not understanding the pocket radio thing??? Looking for loss of signal in a certain area? Like play the radio put it up to my alternator see if signal fades???
I’m a diesel technician I work on trucks all day chase ground issues... may be different than what your explaining... but I know all components of the vehicle are grounded properly to battery negative terminal on the battery
Please repost the link thanks...
No. By taking an AM handheld radio and putting it on a station with no transmission but static, you can snoop around listening to the noise. Gets louder or stronger as get closer. Works in neighborhoods where transformers are failing. Or beating on the pole with sledge hammer and listening to your radio, slam the pole....noise changes, you probably got the right one.I’m not understanding the pocket radio thing??? Looking for loss of signal in a certain area? Like play the radio put it up to my alternator see if signal fades???
and by “bond” you mean... ensure a good connection. In my world any connection to ground that can carry a large load is a good connection...
help me understand in do apologize
I read the “signal to noise ratio” link on that page I needed to scroll down a little farther and hit the “wiring and grounding” link
Will check it out THANKS!
So, the noise is a high whine while the engine is running, & only when the engine is running? Not a clicking/ buzzing??
I wonder if it is the alternator, have you pulled the belt & started the truck to see if the noise is still there? I drive something similar, & have no issues myself... had a Toyota that had a nasty alternator whine. The ONLY thing that did anything to remedy that was a VERY large capacitor inline from the battery. Nothing else helped.
I wonder if it is the alternator, have you pulled the belt & started the truck to see if the noise is still there? I drive something similar, & have no issues myself... had a Toyota that had a nasty alternator whine. The ONLY thing that did anything to remedy that was a VERY large capacitor inline from the battery. Nothing else helped.
Those braided ground straps that always get in the way. Those are bonding straps. You may need to add more.
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Basics
A vehicle is not a ground plane, but rather acts like a capacitor between the antenna and the surface under the vehicle which acts as the ground plane. Since the surface in question is a poor conductor of RF, ground losses occur. If we wish to maximize the system efficiency (the mobile station as a whole), we need to maximize the RF continuity of the vehicle, hence proper bonding. Obviously, proper antenna mounting, and placement are important too. Remember, it is the metal mass directly under the antenna, not what's along side, that counts. And a ground strap is not a replacement for proper mounting!
Bonding also minimizes the leakage of RFI into (ingress) and out of (egress) the various bolted on parts of the vehicle. The exhaust and tail pipes are good examples of RFI egress. Bonding horizontal surfaces (trunk lid, hood, etc.) will have a greater effect than bonding vertical ones like doors, and hatches. It is not uncommon to see a 20 to 30 dB drop in received noise levels once they're properly grounded. Bonding is especially important for body-on-framevehicles, like pickup trucks. In these cases, the bed and cabin should be bonded to the main frame as well as between the bed and the cabin to prevent ground loops.
Remember that RF must return to its source. Low mounting forces a larger portion of this return current to flow through the lossy surface under the vehicle, rather than through the (less lossy) vehicle's superstructure. Therefore, it is easy to see why proper mounting, and proper bondingare requirements to maximize radiation efficiency.
There are a few pundits who are under the misguided belief, that running a braided bonding strap along the frame of a body-on-frame vehicle, bonded every few inches, will drastically improve the less than perfect ground plane a vehicle represents. It won't!
There is one important item to keep in mind about bonding specifically, and noise abatement in general; you can't always tell there has been an improvement by just listening! The reason centers around the AGC circuitry. That issue is covered in the high-lighted article.
From this link....
http://www.k0bg.com/bonding.html
The main link is this.....
http://www.k0bg.com
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