Anytone at-6666 v3

Eldorado828 said:

Who knows man, it's like everything else for the last year or so.... There's a lot we just don't know....

But check this out. Old news but interesting nonetheless
https://simonthewizard.com/2019/04/08/new-detachable-front-ssb-radio/

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Handy Andy said:

Wanted to compliment you on your thinking about how to properly re-set a radio - may not be perfect, but if all else is equal (parts not missing or changed aside from the trimming of the pots) you should be ok.

Sorry to know that you have to purchase an original and use it to help re-align your Second Hand radio - don't worry. With Radios and their complexity these days, if you can just get the thing to work like the original one next to it - is a feat in itself...The lack of documentation from "overseas" has made alignments and repairs of these radios' difficult for even the experienced techs.

You asked about Finals - they did away with Bi-polar and are now using- LD-MOS Linear Device - MOS - FET designs - making them more like their Bipolar counterparts in power curve but less ohmic losses incurred thru their junctions - for they did away with the "direct PN" junction interaction that makes the Bi-polar a current muncher, with the Voltage Driven "Field Proximity" effects taking over, as the way to switch these on or off - they do a pretty good job of being faithful in providing output from the original input signal.

In the newer radios - they are doing away with "bias pots" and going with pre-set values.

The only problem with that is the drop in replacements are going to have a different bias trigger voltage even in tenths of a volt...

- which can make big differences in how the radio with work​

• - staying "in stock operation (fine)"
  • Being - Good to go...
• - or go off on a tangent and either "latch up" until it blows up the replacement final...
• - or work more like a Kraco Emergency Channel 9 HELP radio from the late 80's - getting you nowhere...
  • (both bad)

So yes, the replacements may need to be exact to the number, you should not mix IRF520 and 13N10s' or something exotic - into whatever they are using - they need to be identical in numbering assignment to at least be triggered "properly" and exhibit the right power curve to stay stock and original tuning like you wanted.

So you need to operate the radio within it's original set parameters (your re-alignment using a another OEM one as a template can help immensely in this...) else if you blow a Final - you may have to replace not just the bad final - but the ENTIRE strip. Why? Because the "lots" purchased by the manufacturer have made them pre-set their radios bias' levels for that particular MOSFET design. While you - being in the field and needing a replacement asap - may be out of luck in getting the OEM back out of the radio unless you are willing to delve and dive into the quandary of BIAS proper settings and drive levels per stage to restore the radio back to OEM operation.

The AT-6666 runs the Mic it has wired up for it to enable features and is programmed for it - if you need a replacement mic for it - unless you are willing to lose a lot of features and can tolerate the audio audible differences the filtering the radio uses - it is set up specifically for their mics, not power mics.- remember that the connector pins need to go somewhere - so be aware that to even make it key up - you may need to take it to a shop unless you're comfortable with how the manual shows you what to wire to where and do it yourself...

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