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Yeah I kept on with replacing the caps. Only found one I didn't have. But have more on the way. I found my modulation problem, a solder joint on the board. Still keys at 9 watts and has an outrageous swing. 27 pep. I didn't think this 2092 would do that. D92 was the culprit for the power loss...

I've got one as well that can be used for a guinea pig!

Ok new development. I now have power back on everything. Buuuut, the on air light is on until I key up and I've got a deadkey of 10 watts with zero modulation

Wellllllll, I did that in my Dwight D and that's when I had to start using the 13.8 plug in the back. I'm glad you said that tho, I actually started to do that and replaced the 220uf then for some reason I plugged it back up and had nothing. No power at all on the board. And it popped the fuse...

Bought a cobra 1000 today. Had been sitting for who knows how long in an outdoor building. When I got it home and took the covers off, about a pound of dead cockroaches feel out, smh. Anyway, at first it powered up. Meters were stuck, meter lights burnt as well as the receive light. Had great...

Does anyone know where I can get new or used covers for a Maco 750. An older hand that's getting out of cb gave me one, it's reasonably clean inside but some joker decided to re-paint it and make it his own. I need a new meter and covers of anyone knows of anything, I would appreciate it

I will be first in line to buy one. I'm still having issues with mine. After ordering the correct transistors for the key up and pre amp, my recieve is all or nothing. Meaning, pre amp operates as it should, but with it off, the rx is so diminished I have to run the preamp. Thinking about just...

I I just finished all the caps Monday and have it back in line. Modulation increased slightly, not an appreciable difference but improved. Cost more to replace the electrolytics and time invested than the radio is probably worth lol. But I sure like the look of it and the speaker together. Wish...

Sorry I skipped this post, but yes it does. The transistor I was having problems with is behind it. Well the emitter attaches to one of them. The pre amp and keying relay work now, replaced a 4005 diode, 2905 transistor and a 47uf cap. Without the preamp, it kills A LOT of ambient noise but I...

Yeah, you mentioned recapping, I've ordered all the caps in this amp. Along with the 2905 keying transistors, diodes and most of the resistors. The problem in the pre amp and keying I was having turned out to be a 4005 diode and a 47uf cap. All the other stuff should be in by Friday so I will...

Yeah I've discovered that. I tried numerous times last night to wire it up and got nothing. The one with the dn50 head I have, I would love to be able to use it. Just looks so cool. I guess short of replacing the element and re wiring the entire thing, it will just be a cool piece in the shack.

i hope this is in the right forum. I've got a couple d104's that are unamplified, one from '75 and one from '62 with the DN-50 head. I've been trying to wire these to a four pin plug but can't seem to get the wiring right. On both o have red, blue, with the shield having the black and white...

I'd like to work on the audio section more. Although the diodes worked, it seems like it could use more. I had another hand record my audio using several different mics and while they all sounded clean, it still sounded "thin". Not saying I want splatter loud, just a more robust audio.

On a side note, @nomadradio, I tried the shielding trick you showed me on my Maco 200. It helped dramatically. I had crazy swr problems before and now it barely moves the needle. I have it inline now and everyone says it's much cleaner sounding. Thanks for the advice

@Tallman ive tried the replacement transistor for that 2905 in that particular pattern, When I switch from stand by to operate, my recieve is gone. I get key up but have to flip the switch to get recieve again. @nomadradio i just ordered all of the caps and transistors for this unit. The...

It might be enough, yes. But when tested, the original transistors showed less than half the gain of the new ones. Why not start there? I may play around some more in there.

In that thread, I think it was recommended to use 4001 diodes. I used 3 in series and got a 2.5 watt dk. That what I wanted. But the pep was slow. I swapped for zenier diodes and the action was much peppier. I swapped the driver and final for a 1957 and my last new 1969 and have a good 17 watt...

I'm not real good with schematics, but the keying transistor pinout looks like emitter, collector and base by the schematic. I'm sure I've read that wrong tho. I've tried that transistor in so many variations and I can't get the relay to kick in. I can get key up in operate, but it kills my recieve.

lol I never said I ran them at the voltages of a 520. The ones I put in this base were all set at 1.5 v. They are the L suffix. The ones I put in galaxy cb's 919-979 are all the gets without the L suffix. They do better at 2.5 as you said

All of the Galaxy cb's I've made dual final, I only had a few to blow up and that was when I was just starting doing it. But they were mosfet to begin with and I swapped the 520's for 13n10's. after this 11b fiasco, I'm done with "upgrading" older boards to be mosfet. Yesterday I replaced to...