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Here we go again.:bored:

I've got a Golden Falcon 1000 and it has 6LF6's in it. I have seen them with different ones however. Whichever one was cheapest at the time is what went in them from what I have heard.

Realistic TRC-52, SBE Sidebander II

Leave the mast pole where it is. Just add a little extra weight to the light end of the boom. I usually insert a piece of pipe (thinwall) into the boom to balance the antenna. I know some folks who have used PVC also.

I've always used these types of bearings to take the suspended weight off the rotor. You can use a standard rotor plate to mount them on. This link just gives an idea of how the bearing looks. The ones I usually get look like this but cost around $35-40 bucks. Look at item number: 00598428...

100% correct. I missed that the first time I looked at it.

Wouldn't you need an air socket to get the full benefit of forced air cooling?

Especially if they could not get over you.:whistle:

Working great!!!! Thanks MOLE!!!!! You da' man!!!:thumbup1:

Looks like the forum is under attack from Ebay. Danger Will Robinson...Danger:lol::biggrin:

Pull the tubes out and then power it up and key it. If the fuse still blows you have a HV problem. Either with the supply itself or the transformer. Rebuilding the supply is not a major issue and probably should be done if it is the original one......but the transformer can be another issue...

Check the troubleshooting info on page 11 and 12 of the manual I attached in the previous post. You can run the problem down without much trouble that way. If the meter does not work at all the cal switch could be pushed in or the meter itself is bad. You should have 13 vdc between 3 and 7 on...

Check the internal 1/8th amp fuse to see if it is bad. This will cause the symptoms you have.

I see in the thread of the posted link it is a Stam Comm.......I always thought they were made by the same company that built the Snake Charmer wattmeters.......logo looked the same.

The Silver Eagle amps were made in North Mississippi by the same person who built the TNT amps. You might also find them labeled as Comet. Probably not any info available or that I have seen on them. The 350 should have 4 MRF 455's or something equivilant.

A good idea will be NOT to have the sweep tube amp inline with the Mini Scout. That will save a BOO BOO. I've messed up many amps whilst letting Budweiser run the show but was lucky I could fix them when it happened. A switchbox might be a good solution to that problem for you. But you...

That will be a perfect setup. I'd set the dead key around 6-7 watts and let it swing. You might find you have to turn your mike gain or mike down just a bit when using it as it will increase your transmitted audio. Keep watch on the tube to make sure the plates (metal part inside tube) do not...

You are correct. When new both toggle switches would have been the same. They should have been short metal toggles. Depending on what type of wattmeter you use peak wattage should be between 75 to 90 watts. Set the dead key from 6 to 15 watts max. If you use this amp to drive a larger amp...

The left switch should be for power, the right for Standby. Red lamp for power, green lamp for power output. The 6CA7 is an acceptable replacement for the original 8417 tube with a few changes. Yours will be an earlier version of the tan ones.

Bad link. Take a photo of the amp and post it. Most probably it is a Mini Scout or regular Scout....how many tubes and what kind will answer the question. If the light you are referring to is behind a screw on lens it will show output. A #47 bulb is what it uses in both cases.