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"Obviously it surprised you enough to Post about my humanity, which is really none of your buisness" Nope it didn't suprise me at all....just made an observation. You post you pre-concieved notions about groups of good people in a "better than they are" attitude......I will make it my bussiness...

Your post dosen't suprise me at all.....now it's "southern hicks"......your humanity is shining through. I thought you just disliked CBers, but now southern people is on the list. :roll: I bet Archie Bunker was your role model. Now I'm starting to understand why you like CW so much.....is there...

"Then THE WORLD (thar) is OUR'N!!!!!! MERCY ME, GRE'T DAY 'LIVE THAR AN A-BLOWIN' SMOKE! HA! And everyday those folks wonder why they get disrespected and mocked by licensed hams. Above sits the answer." Yep....I'll get my license the first chance I get, so I can have the...

If I remember right the final output tube is an 8950 and I think ~80-100 PEP AM and ~100-180 PEP SSB depending on how good the tube is. Those numbers are from memory and not carved in stone :wink: One way to find out about the fan is....after the radio reaches operating temp. go to sideband and...

Also if you use the D-104 on the 1011C (or D), you might want to turn it down some (if not alot) on the bottom if it's amplified. Those radios don't need much audio input to get alot out, and if you turn up a amplified mic on it, the radio will sound "raspy" and some will tell you that it's off...

Thanks, that makes sence on both. I've replaced the ceramics before on different radios with mica and didn't see that problem, but I always un-solderd and removed the transistor(s) and after cleaning off the old compound, replaced them with fresh, the re-soldering after mounting and checking for...

That's pretty neat.....while I was moving my mouse around, the song "Ina Gata Da'vida" popped into my mind. 8)

This is what I was asking about, I'm not implying that is wrong...just trying to understand how the mica insulators would cause the problem.

Yeah.....what he said :D

Ok...I have to ask, how would the mica cause the problem? The only thing I can think of is if the insulating washers (on the bolt) that were used with the ceramics, being longer, were used on the thinner mica and not allowing the transistors to tighten to the heatsink. But that would be a heat...

Interesting read :)

That was good :rknrl

If I remember right the boom is ~11' 7". The M-105 might be a bit too much....not so much weight, but length. Alot of stress on the gears starting and especally stopping (rotor stops, beam wants to keep going due to momentum) I tried a Moonraker 4 with it one time just to see if it would work...

That's what I use to turn my Maco Comet, still working good after close to a year.

That was good :rknrl

"3- Be real careful with the Moonraker Hubs, that attach the elements to the Boom. As their are around 40 years old, they are fragile and will eaisly crack and break. If you don't have to unbolt them, I wouldn't" I agree 100%, what I have done (and still do) is drill a small hole in the hubs...

8) I'd like to hear "Tilt A Whirl" on that system, 197. Even this 48 yr.(I had to edit this from 58 to 48..that 4&5 key too close :oops: ) old likes a little ICP now and then along with: POD,Linkin Park,korn,Limp Bizkit. I've always said that I like everything from Bill Monroe to Metallica, but...

I still use my Yaesu FC-902, an oldie...but goodie.

I use CRC as well.....just make sure it's the QD (quick dry) type and make it's safe for plastics. I learned that the hard way....thought I'd save a few bucks and bought some CRC in the red can (for cleaning electric motors) at an auto parts store. Sprayed out the pots in my "Galaxy" Pluto, a...

I agree, and if you don't already know....if you do go with the wire, don't go with the "rejection" kit. It's just a gimmick and in my opinion, does more harm than good....sorta confuses the driven element to which is the front or back of the beam I believe.