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Great little amp for SSB use. Bought one new in 1997 from Thomas Distributing for $89 lol. I'd buy 50 at that price today. Mine had the SRF3749 finals. Just don't overdrive it and if your a long talker add a fan on the top. Nice clean looking amp.
I would plug in an external speaker to test the radio speaker. After that double check the radio settings, maybe the squelch is wide open or something simple.
Nice amp. Assuming you have a true peak reading watt meter on SSB I would run 8-12 watts PEP into it. It will loaf along at that drive level and run perfectly.
Actually these "new fangled things" are all mosfet finals. Mosfets do not like high SWR and will blow easily, I would set that SWR protection at 1.8-2.0. As far as your amplifier, they make two versions.
https://truckscbsales.com/cb-radio-products/kl503-mobile-amplifier...
The KL300p is a class C amplifier. It will do fine on AM but on SSB it might sound a little crunchy or harsh. The older red KL300p amplifiers had two sd1446 finals, not sure what the newer black versions run these days.
The best option would be to have amplifiers built with the older finals because they were actually designed for transmitting. Examples would be the Toshiba 2sc2290 and 2sc2879. I think this also applies to others like the sd1446, mrf454, and mrf455. These have been discontinued now, HG is...
A sharper person then I can chime in here and let us know. That white square part to the left of the finals that says PCD might be some kind of a bias part. Pics of class B X-Force and Carl built have a similar component. You have a nice little amp there.
E-Bay is definitely not what it used to be. Hope that works out for you.
With Texas Star the ones with a SSB delay on the back are the high drive variable versions with the variable control on the front in the middle. The ones with all push buttons on the front are the "low drive" versions...
The amp goes between the radio and watt meter on a jumper. As long as your antenna switch is rated to handle the wattage from the TS500 you should be good. I assume your just running 10 and 11 meter correct?
As far as your antennas I don't know why you would need a coax T. I figured you have...
If your on AM and it sounds pinched up or crunchy you are probably overdriving the amp. If your radio has an RF power control on the front turn it all the way down. With that small of an amp something like a .75-1.5 watt dead key input will be plenty. Too much peak swing input can also overdrive...
Wow that's tough. Back in the day when the Magnum Radio line came out (Alpha, Delta, Omega Force, 257, S3, S6, and S9) he was the master with those. Many shops just could not tune them right with the Top Gun and Md1. With Bob's they all came out killer.
I kinda like this AI stuff.
Yes, genuine United Chemi-Con capacitors are generally considered very good, high-quality components, especially top-tier series, ranking with brands like Rubycon and Nichicon; however, their reputation is mixed due to specific notorious series (like KZG) known to...
So just bringing up the Uniden 980 for a minute. You might test with a different watt meter. Those were low powered radios, maybe 10-14 watts peak and even less bone stock. When overturned they would fail.
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