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I didn't know he has been doing it for that long! Seasoned veteran in radios. :) Much respect to him. I wasnt even brought into this world until 11 years later lol.
I dont have the watt meter hooked up, but when I did, it was doing well over 200+ PEP when you set it on high. Medium its doing 140ish? This is just throwing 10 watts SSB at it. Even on Medium, its drawing around 18 amps. High its for sure draining 20 amps.
Mother Nature has a weird say to keep me in check out here in Kansas lol. But there was a short window early this year were I got into Australia at least. Though, I should probably look around .555 for better DX.
Was this the case with the old Kraco 23 channel radios? Reason I ask is because there was two versions of the 23 channel Kraco radios that looked exactly the same, but Version A had the crystals inside it.... Version B had the PLL chip in it.. Always wondered if it was as simple to swap/wire...
Pretty neat you also just have it set to Medium. My 2 pill Magnum 2000 I just keep it at medium. with yours having the four MRF455, its for sure doing better. :)
****Ooops, I mean my Palomar Skipper. The Magnum 2000 has the same 2 pills/transistors inside. Magnum 2000 I will slowly work on over...
The ALC will set your SSB watts overall. I just put my wife's 980SSB to 10 watts on SSB, then put the AMC so it was doing the 8 watts on AM. AM Power of course I set it to just under 2 watts while no modulation is happening. :)
You are doing great. SSB should be doing its 10+ watts. AM I think it was doing the 4 watts deadkey swinging up to 10. I think bringing down the AM carrier, it does compromise the watts some on the top end, but your amp will be fine with that.
For the sake of, dont keep that radio in extreme...
I suppose you can get a resistor and a capacitor to help with that, but I felt that the audio was distorted after doing it. What worked better for me was stacking 4 diodes in series near the AM transformer.
Otherwise, here is a guide to do it with a capacitor and a resistor near the final...
Looking at the fuse, it went through some heat stress.... Can those Toshiba finals take a beating like that?!?! I figured they would of burned up from the heat if a small power supply was being used.
Thanks to your advice in the past, that was my guess that it was driven wayyyy too hot. Maybe feeding it with 30+ watts? I will go to the hardware store tomorrow to see if I can source some for this amp. Appreciate it. :)
Going to order some. The two that are nuked are 100 ohms, and the two top ones closer are 33 ohms. (For some reason on the right-top on the selector in the picture, that one should be exactly like the other one left of it with the 2 bands of orange. The other picture of a Magnum 2000 on here...
Took my time and it worked out... :)
(Please ignore the nasty bits of dust/crumbs/flux splatter from the amp. I cleaned it all up, but just took the pictures right quick to post.
Here is that clarifier unlock guide I posted. (On the picture with the two small white wired clipped, ONLY do one.... I was curious if either could be clipped and it still yielded the same results. The video on youtube tried having you remove SMD components on the board which was not needed...
There is an adjustment I believe on the top-righthand side of the board near the back next to that transformer. Just be very very careful as those small tiny potentiometers can easily break if done wrong. You can turn down that AM deadkey. :) (My wife's 980SSB I have already unlocked the...
If I understood correctly, if you drive the amp with a bigger radio like a 10 meter radio. (One doing 30+ watts.), that would cook those resistors nice n toasty. Good eye on the missing screw. I did not even dare to key up long at all.. I was just after if any kind of power output was happening...
Unsure what oscilloscopes most prefer these days. A couple of my friends have that Rygol branded O-Scope. They went as far as to modifying the firmware to unlock a ton of feature on it. I don't have the exact model on hand, but may be a good candidate for ya.
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