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I recommend putting the jumper back in place. If the AMC is intact and working properly, AND adjusted properly, you can crank the mic gain with absolutely zero distortion, yielding better average modulation. You might see a slight dip in the PEP on your meter, but the actual PEP will not have...

Pricing aside, the 447 seems to be every bit as good as the 440. One thing you may need to watch out for over the long term is the 5-volt regulator used on the channel selector/display board. The original regulator was a 7805 IC, but the new one os some kind of miniaturized swithcing regulator...

I'm not sure if there is actually supposed to be a correlation, but if there is, it's PEP. I don't think I've ever seen a base radio with the 0-50 variable that matched what the variable was set at.

Comb through the various CB forums and see who seems to get the most praise. You can also visit White List of CB Shops for some shops to research before making a decision.

I think I may have finally seen the Super Wackpack II. A customer came in yesterday with a General Lee he'd purchased from RA. It had the usual diode at the AM regulator (NPC mod), but in addition, the NB/ANL switch had been wired across the AMC transistor through a couple of resistors...

I love MOSFET's in most radios. They're inexpensive (you can find IRF520's for less than a dollar each if you REALLY look hard, and don't mind waiting a bit), and at do every bit as good a job in a 29-style radio as the 1969 final did. The specs you quoted on your radio don't look too good...

Wow, this shows you how busy I've been. I'm just now replying to this, lol! Anyway, how I have been is busy. As for the WhackPacks, 1, 2, or Super, They are basically glorified NPC modifications (as someone mentioned) . I've seen some RA radios with the finals volted (generally never a good...

Hard to believe this thread is still active after more than 4 years.

In my experience this is almost always a bad solder joint in the VCO/PLL circuit. In some cases, the joint is visibly cracked, in other cases I find that carefully touching up all the joints in that area does the trick. Sometimes you can isolate the part by gently moving individual parts, but...

Quick test is to run a basic replacement coax straight from the radio to the antenna and see if your receive stays put.

Yes. but if you want a bit louder, you can drop as low as 33 ohms before you start to pull down the PEP of the radio.

Don't do that yet. Many CB shops do not charge to do bench checks, and some often include a bit of brief troubleshooting to get a better idea of what the cause/cost would be. I run my Carlisle, PA shop that way. It would be worth a bit of yout time to stop someplace and have it checked, even if...

If you don't need echo, and want something current, I recommend the 2950DX with a proper PLL alignment. They are very stable on SSB, and deliver more than enough drive for a DX500V (my favorite amp)

As someone else posted, I've been permanently banned for several years now. I haven't seen the Whacky Pack 2 yet, but I'm sure its as good as the original.

I've used an HM-10, and still have it with its original case, cord, etc. It worked well for me. I no longer use it since I'm partial to my Silver Eagle.

My bad, I should have said that there are no police reports anywhere in the country to that effect. I think someone is just trying to stir the pot with a fake spoon. Visit Criminal Searches - FREE criminal searches on anyone for all of your gossiping needs.

Shoulda used a toilet picture with some "substance" in it....

Since I'm "some other forum shop", I guess I should chime in. This is the first I've heard of 292 being accused of ripping someone off. I haven't had time to do a lot of forum browsing in the past year or so, so I'm a bit behind the times perhaps. I did find a report at Rip-off Report: 292 Radio...

This is messed up. No more than 30 seconds after I posted this, I found what I needed. Here's a link to a PDF of the service manual: http://www.freeinfostuff.com/BK2040/BK-2040_Service.pdf

I know this is an old post, but I'm looking for a schematic for this unit, as well. I came up empty on the BAMA website, and other searches have proved empty (other than high-priced manual sources).