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142 gtl rust


If you are able to remove the rear panel from the radio, get a cookie sheet and soak the

back panel in Hydrogen peroxide, available at all drug stores and the big box stores, let it

soak awhile and enjoy the results. You may have to soak several times if the rust is

heavy.
 
get some distilled white vinegar and add some salt to it.
stir it in until it dissolves.
keep adding more salt until it won't dissolve any more.
(the usual concentration is approximately 1/2 cup of salt to 1/2 gallon of vinegar)

now soak the metal in the solution for about 12 hours up to a few days depending on the metal and the penetration level of the rust.

radio tech on this forum has a youtube channel where he shows how to use this.

disclaimer!
I have not done this on a radio chassis like you are showing and don't know how it reacts with the coating on that metal.

please do let us know how it turns out.
LC
 
First, I usually remove all the parts attached to the back panel if not the entire surrounding frame, whichever is easier depending on the radio. That also includes removal of the serial or model number plate. Those are usually riveted on. The serial plate will later be reattached with chrome flat head screws. Next I use a paint remover wheel (sand disks or wire wheels are too harsh for my liking) attached to my drill. It takes a little elbow grease to bring the entire surface down to shinny bare metal, but the results are worth it IMO. BTW, I use paint remover wheels to prep anything I want to send out to be powered coated, such as a radio case. Lastly, before any parts are reinstalled, I use Rust-Oleum clear lacquer spray to protect the bare metal. Like most lacquers, it will tend to yellow a little with age, giving it a more original look.
 
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