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148GTL MALAYSIA

IT's a "good thing" meaning that you have a radio they found a way to use Varactors in, when the package deign that the Varactor came in, was dropped and they did up a different way using a Varactor of a different design.

The radio is fine, just letting you know that in light of it's age, any effort to increase range of tuning requiring a change in parts and components - will require knowing how they "put it together" when otherwise the parts that would have been in there ORIGINALLY are not, since Varactors have a polarity, you will have to install them as they have done.

These are the minor quirks in using an older Discrete-bound chassis when the parts to fix them are no longer made in the same package as it was built around and used - back then.

Varactors are the simpler ones, replacing the Bipolar Transistors no longer made - having to upgrade using types of others that have a different pin out from the original design, are more difficult.

The caution here is, like what Scotty Said to Kirk,
IF it ain't broke, don't fix it.

When you have to fix it, get it fixed, and don't run it like the way you did - when you broke it.- this advice is for all...

Great to know.
One last question....until I have another one, lol....
Do I need to check the bias voltage on the driver and final? If so, do I need a dummy load or can I use the antenna successfully?
What would be a sign that it's outta wack and needs looking at?
One other thing I noticed is with the squelch set at threshold, when i key and unkey, the squelch will disengage and slowly come back over about 1 second, guessing a cap on that one? It's not a headache or anything, just curious.
 
Bias needs to be "set" when the radio has had five minutes to warm up - in a normal room (think living room) temperature.

upload_2020-10-11_14-52-46.png
Your radio - Driver in Blue/Cyan, Final in Purple/Violet.​

upload_2020-10-11_14-50-17.png
  • Use a Dummy Load - preferred...Radio on USB or LSB, Mic Gain all the way down no audio
  • Use a DVM set for 200mA or 2A - measure at the location above...
  • Best to do, DRIVER first - FINAL last
  • Pull wire off pin (Push on connector stays with wire - it should be on with Crimp)
    • This wire GETS NEGATIVE BLACK LEAD
    • Pin side gets the RED POSITIVE LEAD
  • TX Radio into Dummy load
    • - observe Reading on meter
    • - in 2A it'll show 0.0X
    • - in 200mA it will show 0Xx
  • Adjust proper trimmer - See above, for proper 50~55mA reading - follow its' proper color code.
    • IF Meter Scale is set for 2A - adjust to show 0.05 - not 0.06 not 0.04 - ok?
  • Unkey radio
  • Disconnect Test Leads, replace connector onto PIN,
  • Repeat the above for the other connector - adjust the trimmer following it's color code.
Me? Id' double check now, before you hit a long road journey that you may need to depend on the radio for saving your life, or saving you time to get around a traffic headache.

  • Because if you don't, are you sure the previous owner set the BIAS like you want?

It's in - These moments of use, that indicates how well you're getting out. This kind of "everyday" use, they are a good way of knowing your radios condition.

They are the best times to know of your signal condition - at having to ask for a good radio check without even having to ask, by just how people are talking to you,

Natural flow of conversation tells you if it works - if they have difficulty, you'll know it, because soon, they grow weary of "That guy that can't get his radio right".
  • - some will tell you, others won't - and maybe some might be kind enough to even help you - why guess? Get it right BEFORE your head out.

The more emphasis is placed on making it sound good, not too loud, not muffled, or overdriven, a 3.75 watt carrier or less for normal use - and lower is better to drive the amp if you need, and if you have to run a power mike - remember it's going to pick up everything - all the noises in the cab.. Adjust audio drive and how you use it, accordingly.
 

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Bias needs to be "set" when the radio has had five minutes to warm up - in a normal room (think living room) temperature.

View attachment 40927
Your radio - Driver in Blue/Cyan, Final in Purple/Violet.​

  • Use a Dummy Load - preferred...Radio on USB or LSB, Mic Gain all the way down no audio
  • Use a DVM set for 200mA or 2A - measure at the location above...
  • Best to do, DRIVER first - FINAL last
  • Pull wire off pin (Push on connector stays with wire - it should be on with Crimp)
    • This wire GETS NEGATIVE BLACK LEAD
    • Pin side gets the RED POSITIVE LEAD
  • TX Radio into Dummy load
    • - observe Reading on meter
    • - in 2A it'll show 0.0X
    • - in 200mA it will show 0Xx
  • Adjust proper trimmer - See above, for proper 50~55mA reading - follow its' proper color code.
    • IF Meter Scale is set for 2A - adjust to show 0.05 - not 0.06 not 0.04 - ok?
  • Unkey radio
  • Disconnect Test Leads, replace connector onto PIN,
  • Repeat the above for the other connector - adjust the trimmer following it's color code.
Me? Id' double check now, before you hit a long road journey that you may need to depend on the radio for saving your life, or saving you time to get around a traffic headache.

  • Because if you don't, are you sure the previous owner set the BIAS like you want?

It's in - These moments of use, that indicates how well you're getting out. This kind of "everyday" use, they are a good way of knowing your radios condition.

They are the best times to know of your signal condition - at having to ask for a good radio check without even having to ask, by just how people are talking to you,

Natural flow of conversation tells you if it works - if they have difficulty, you'll know it, because soon, they grow weary of "That guy that can't get his radio right".
  • - some will tell you, others won't - and maybe some might be kind enough to even help you - why guess? Get it right BEFORE your head out.

The more emphasis is placed on making it sound good, not too loud, not muffled, or overdriven, a 3.75 watt carrier or less for normal use - and lower is better to drive the amp if you need, and if you have to run a power mike - remember it's going to pick up everything - all the noises in the cab.. Adjust audio drive and how you use it, accordingly.

Driver was 29.9 and the final was 50.2 set them both to 50ish....driver 50.1 final was left alone @ 50.2
 
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Feel that back panel on occasion for the next few weeks as you work that radio.

IT will warm up, but if it starts to burn your fingers when you touch the Final Driver back there , shut it down and take it back in to your bench and investigate...
 
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144inBama
I found that installation of a center detent clarifier potentiometer on my 148 “Made in the Malaysia” (AKA “The Turd”) was not a good idea. When moving from the center detent to either direction, the frequency jumped more than I wanted it to just getting the pot off the detent.
I have since changed it back to a non-detent potentiometer and dialed down the amount of “slide” to tame the clarifier.
Just my experience, yours may vary.
It appears your 148 has been recapped. Should give you many years of service!

73
David

Tonight I saw exactly what you were talking about....that little smidgen does indeed make a difference. I may go back to the one that was in it of find a new one. Never would have thought 1/64" could make that kinda difference, but I've never been a SSB guy til recently.
 

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