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2510 meter light rubber mount.
- Thread starter twa77
- Start date
You want a soft white led. That is what will work best from the stand point of what you can get, the radio display and the human eye. A soft orange or red would be ok too but have fun finding them.
What ever you do avoid the redneck trash blue LED's. Not only are they bad for your eye's, hard to look at for long but they destroy the quality of your sleep and your night vision.
Even bass boats come in colors besides blue metallic flake!
What ever you do avoid the redneck trash blue LED's. Not only are they bad for your eye's, hard to look at for long but they destroy the quality of your sleep and your night vision.
Even bass boats come in colors besides blue metallic flake!
That's why I always liked Candy Apple Red metal flake on the boat...
Seems even the fish can see the color - to me it seems to make them think there's blood in the water...
I am all about original on some radios. I like the amber better than the green. Are those 2 5 mm bulbs? They look very nice.
LED's are infinitely better than incandescent in any application that has vibration. My old Yamaha bass amplifier used 8 incandescent lamps behind each peak reading watt meter, for 16 bulbs at a total cost of $32 to replace. Couldn't get a few weeks out of these bulbs with the amplifier anywhere near the subwoofers vibrations.
For $5 I purchased a 12 volt LED light bulb that had 8 strips of 6 LED's the same length as the meters. Removed two strips and double side sticky taped them to the bracket above the meters and never had a problem afterwards. Since they can handle this, any application in a mobile radio works awesome too.
Run them with a dropping resistor that supplies no more than half of maximum forward current and they last forever. Conversely, if you run them at maximum rated current, they will dim down over time, until they eventually burn open. That is actually a common problem on LED TV's run with the backlight at maximum. Since the LED's are wired in series, depending on the configuration you'll lose half or all of the screen backlight when any one LED fails.
On that note, when I buy a new LED TV, I always turn the backlight to maximum for the first half of the warranty. I want them under full stress while they are still covered. This practice already resulted in two Samsung TV's being returned under warranty until the manufacturer finally realized they needed to upgrade me to a better model, or this process would continue forever...
Here is another tip when buying a TV. The best LED models get noticeably hotter on the entire bottom edge of the screen where the cheap ones are hotter at the top. The good ones get hot at the bottom because they mount a long row of LED's on an aluminum strip along the base of the screen. They shine into the edge of a plexiglass defuser that provides perfectly even light across the entire surface area.
Cheaper ones just place a bunch of LED's right behind the screen. That introduces two problems. Each LED needs its own defuser glued to it or it produces a bright hot spot on the screen. The glue fails over time and the defusers fall off so you do see bright spots. Additionally they tend to run these LED's at a higher current so that they can get away with installing less individual LED's and defusers. Since you don't need extra space to mount the cheap LED and defusers behind the screen, the better TV's are also thinner.
For $5 I purchased a 12 volt LED light bulb that had 8 strips of 6 LED's the same length as the meters. Removed two strips and double side sticky taped them to the bracket above the meters and never had a problem afterwards. Since they can handle this, any application in a mobile radio works awesome too.
Run them with a dropping resistor that supplies no more than half of maximum forward current and they last forever. Conversely, if you run them at maximum rated current, they will dim down over time, until they eventually burn open. That is actually a common problem on LED TV's run with the backlight at maximum. Since the LED's are wired in series, depending on the configuration you'll lose half or all of the screen backlight when any one LED fails.
On that note, when I buy a new LED TV, I always turn the backlight to maximum for the first half of the warranty. I want them under full stress while they are still covered. This practice already resulted in two Samsung TV's being returned under warranty until the manufacturer finally realized they needed to upgrade me to a better model, or this process would continue forever...
Here is another tip when buying a TV. The best LED models get noticeably hotter on the entire bottom edge of the screen where the cheap ones are hotter at the top. The good ones get hot at the bottom because they mount a long row of LED's on an aluminum strip along the base of the screen. They shine into the edge of a plexiglass defuser that provides perfectly even light across the entire surface area.
Cheaper ones just place a bunch of LED's right behind the screen. That introduces two problems. Each LED needs its own defuser glued to it or it produces a bright hot spot on the screen. The glue fails over time and the defusers fall off so you do see bright spots. Additionally they tend to run these LED's at a higher current so that they can get away with installing less individual LED's and defusers. Since you don't need extra space to mount the cheap LED and defusers behind the screen, the better TV's are also thinner.