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2SC1969

Raccoon

Well-Known Member
Oct 27, 2005
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I need to replace the 2SC1969 final in one of my radios and I've been told that the 2SC2312 can be a good replacement . I'm actually trying to find an original 2SC1969 , and someone offered me a 2SC1969P . So at the risk of looking stupid I'm going to ask ... does anyone know what the difference between the 2SC1969 and the 2SC1969P is ?? Can the 2SC1969P be used to replace the 2SC1969 ?
 

Raccoon,
Try the search feature at the link below. Generally a letter suffix after a part number is a revision or improvement or gain difference to the original part. Compare the specs in the datasheet search, you may find them very very close in specs.

https://www.alldatasheet.com/

73
David
 
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uniden exports came from the factory with 2sc1969 or 2sc2312,
I preferred 2312's given a choice, as did other folk I know that did repairs,
either works perfectly ok,

one well known local rig doctor used to put a gold sticker near the finals inside repair jobs saying
" for more power & better ssb audio use 2sc2312 "

never heard of a 1969p
 
In doing searches, you already know that the part SHOULD be a TO-220 package.

So if the designation suffix is added, it may indicate that it is a PLASTIC case part.

In this example, the "P" is part of a Flat-Pak Plastic designation - (FP) the TAB is electrically isolated from the Heat sink TAB for mounting - but adds an insulation layer of plastic in return.
upload_2021-1-27_21-31-1.png

Which changes the power dissipation and a whole new ballgame for dealing with it's thermal issues.

Now, if you're referring to this part on eBay,
upload_2021-1-27_21-32-52.png

This is definitely a Metal Tab TO-220 package.

So the "P" may then refer to a type of profile in performance - or an Hfe Range..

Or a Re-badged part of similar performance - from what - who knows?

The part is $14.95 with free shipping - its' your money.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2SC1969P-Matsushita-Transistor-/254800188435

Just wanted to point out some stuff to help you in thinking this thru - so if you bite and take the bait, this may be a working part with a performance similar to the part you want, but it may need some TLC and tweaks in the support components around it - so it can work as intended.
 
I would suggest to keep looking for an original (perhaps a wanted post would help), even if a good used pull. Last time I bought some “new” on ebay they were counterfeit (15+ years ago mind you), they would work as a switch, example: turning an LED on or off, but did not amplify 27MHz RF, they physically looked similar to that “P” version. The authentic 1969’s looked a bit different.

As I said, perhaps a wanted AD if you didn't already, and look for real looking second hand ones. I'm sure people still have them sitting around, I know I had a few extra working pulls from swapping with a MOSFET many years ago, though no idea where they are after moving; certainly someone has got to have one they are willing to sell!
 
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