Hello... I ordered a matched pair of Tailors 3-500zg tubes from RF parts. I bought them because they were the cheapest. My question is.... the Tailor brand any good?
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3-500zg
- Thread starter Drifter
- Start date
As you've deduced, they are the cheapest brand going. That means they are the most economical, and that's good. Are they the 'best' brand going? I really doubt it, the best is never the cheapest.
And just for for grins. That first number in a tube designator such as the '3-500' series, tells you the number of elements in that tube. That means that a '2-500zg' is one hell of'va big diode, or rectifier. A pair of them would make a very high current full wave rectifier and power supply. Bet the required transformer for that thing would weigh a ton.
- 'Doc
(I know it was a 'typo'.)
And just for for grins. That first number in a tube designator such as the '3-500' series, tells you the number of elements in that tube. That means that a '2-500zg' is one hell of'va big diode, or rectifier. A pair of them would make a very high current full wave rectifier and power supply. Bet the required transformer for that thing would weigh a ton.
- 'Doc
(I know it was a 'typo'.)
At one time many years ago the brand name Taylor was a decent brand. Taylor tubes went out of business many years ago and RF Parts bought the name. Taylor tubes are simply Chinese tubes from the same factory the other Chinese tubes are made at but branded with the name Taylor and sold exclusivly thru RF Parts. IOW they are the same thing as the non-Taylor brand Chinese tubes. Nowadays you pretty much take what you get as there are only one or two factories still making vacuum tubes.
I got my match set of Taylor's 3-500zg tube from RF Part a few weeks ago. They were well packaged. I removed the old Emiacs from my Heathkit SB-220 installed the Taylors. I left the amp on for 24hrs. I tuned up and getting about 1kw average on AM. I am running it at 800 watts average.
Oh, I wouldn't worry much about over driving things. Unless that '220 is very heavily modified, as in redesigning it from the ground up, you certainly aren't getting that much power out of it on AM (or is that input power? 
).
- 'Doc
).- 'Doc
Soooo Doc You are saying I can get away with driving the 3cx3000 amp with the SB-220? Actually when I think about it... it should workOh, I wouldn't worry much about over driving things. Unless that '220 is very heavily modified, as in redesigning it from the ground up, you certainly aren't getting that much power out of it on AM (or is that input power?
- 'Doc
Just have to monitor my drive levels..Drifter,
Do I think you can get away with driving that 3CX3000 with your claimed output from that '220?
Before I answer that, let me say this. I have made a very basic mistake by not going back and re-reading this thread. I am making an assumption about that SB-220 that I haven't confirmed, that it has not been modified very extensively to be getting almost three times the power out of it as a 'normal' SB-220. Or would that be four times the power, or even greater because of the way power was figured at the time that thing was designed? I'm also making an assumption from just the name of the tube's brand and my prior experience with them, that I shouldn't make. Things can change over time because of improvements in manufacturing and i didn't take that into accounting for your results. (I'm also not taking into account the moronic habit of people 'mixing' power measurement units for misguided reasons. Or should that actually be "more-out-ic" instead of moronic habit?)
So actually what I'm doing here is making a very embarrassing apology for making assumptions I shouldn't have. I'm also apologizing for not rectifying that mistake by re-reading this thread completely. I find I'm just not interested enough.
Now, having gone through all that, before answering you last question. Here's my answer...
I think I'd take a good look at that 3CX3000's input ratings, and the metered values from the front panel of that SB-220 (making another unsubstantiated assumption there) before mating the two.
- 'Doc
Do I think you can get away with driving that 3CX3000 with your claimed output from that '220?
Before I answer that, let me say this. I have made a very basic mistake by not going back and re-reading this thread. I am making an assumption about that SB-220 that I haven't confirmed, that it has not been modified very extensively to be getting almost three times the power out of it as a 'normal' SB-220. Or would that be four times the power, or even greater because of the way power was figured at the time that thing was designed? I'm also making an assumption from just the name of the tube's brand and my prior experience with them, that I shouldn't make. Things can change over time because of improvements in manufacturing and i didn't take that into accounting for your results. (I'm also not taking into account the moronic habit of people 'mixing' power measurement units for misguided reasons. Or should that actually be "more-out-ic" instead of moronic habit?)
So actually what I'm doing here is making a very embarrassing apology for making assumptions I shouldn't have. I'm also apologizing for not rectifying that mistake by re-reading this thread completely. I find I'm just not interested enough.
Now, having gone through all that, before answering you last question. Here's my answer...
I think I'd take a good look at that 3CX3000's input ratings, and the metered values from the front panel of that SB-220 (making another unsubstantiated assumption there) before mating the two.
- 'Doc
- No one is chatting at the moment.