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Clipperton 10 Meter Mod Questions

Cajun Invader

Cajun Invader

Membership Moderator
Oct 13, 2008
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Does anyone know what coil on the tank is the tap for the 10 Meter Mod?

Also, would anyone happen to know what position the selector switch needs to be in for 10 Meter operation?


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I didn't think there was a simple mod for 10m on the Clipperton-L. The USA version was meant for 160-15m only while the European version included a differant bandswitch and tap for 10m. I don't think it was a simple matter of enabling something that was already to go.

BTW take a good look at that tank coil. There appears to be a burnt coil tap position on the left of the picture. It looks as if it got real hot at some point and melted some solder. Better check that out before firing it up.
 
The tank coil looks like someone dropped their crack pipe on it. Before I do anything with the amp I am trying to learn all about it. I believe the reason the tap was removed was due to a broken tab on the selector switch. Possibly they soldered the tap to the wrong coil and had to move it. Selector switch has been doctored some. I plan on changing it out as soon as I figure this beast out.

This radio, according to the paperwork has the 10 meter mod done but for the life of me I can't figure out how or where it was done.

Here is the mod that came with the paperwork on the amp. Also a receipt for the mod came with it. From 1993 of course.

TEN METER MOD FOR CLIPPERTON L LINEAR
 
Already done for ten meter. the photo shows the switch set for 10 meter. Mod consists of adjusting switch stop, and removing FL1.
Rich
 
n8fgb said:
Already done for ten meter. the photo shows the switch set for 10 meter. Mod consists of adjusting switch stop, and removing FL1.
Rich
Click to expand...

Correct. After reading the post again I remembered all about the little switch stops that used to be installed on some switches. I should have known better as I have installed/removed many of them on ceramic RF switches over the years.:headbang They are basically just a small threaded pin and a nut.
 
QRN said:
Correct. After reading the post again I remembered all about the little switch stops that used to be installed on some switches. I should have known better as I have installed/removed many of them on ceramic RF switches over the years.:headbang They are basically just a small threaded pin and a nut.
Click to expand...

So if I'm correct, the 10 Meter coil would be the 8th from the left. 80 and 160 would be located on the coil to the left.

2cwu7wp.jpg
 
L2 is the 10,15, 20m coil and has one end connected directly to the loading capacitor. The tap closest to the end of the coil that is connected to the loading capacitor should be the 10m tap. ( I think) BTW check out the wires coming from that bandswitch. They look awfully close together and you do NOT want any of them to short together or :eek: followed by :cry: and then :headbang.
 
QRN said:
L2 is the 10,15, 20m coil and has one end connected directly to the loading capacitor. The tap closest to the end of the coil that is connected to the loading coil should be the 10m tap. ( I think) BTW check out the wires coming from that bandswitch. They look awfully close together and you do NOT want any of them to short together or :eek: followed by :cry: and then :headbang.
Click to expand...

From the picture they do look close but they clear by about 1/4 inch each.

So more than likely the crack pipe solder job was an attempt to switch to 11 meter. :thumbdown:

Overall this amp is in wonderful shape. Just a few minor things needing to be touched up.

Not too much info on the net about this one. I sure did pick a doozy to learn about.

It's all fun though. Thanks for all the help.(y)
 
FYI replacement of those Dentron labeled Cetrons with new Chineese tubes might fry your parasitic supressors. Some new 572bees have higher gain than old 572bees. They want to take off in this circuit.
 
Got my new glass for my Clipperton yesterday. Burned them in and now getting 750 on low and 1000 watts on high tap with 50 watts drive on 75 meter. Went to a push/pull cooling system, and using a homebrew keying buffer for the FT 450. Have a CM-U outboard tuned input comming yet, then she should rock.
Rich
 
Didn't you have an SB220?

I seem to remember a pic of one that you posted.

If so, how would you compare the two?
 
SB220 does not have Top Band. Should put a couple more watts than Clipperton. Not much difference in the other guys S meter though. Clipperton has 12 T/R relay though, and should not need a keying buffer for most new rigs.And of course Dentron made some purty amps.
Rich
 

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