Diesel Genset RFI

[Slowmover]

Whats the best approach on containing RFI?

1). Ferrites where power leaves the genset?

2). Yet more at other end? Or that end, alone?

3). Inverter?

(I turn on the microwave, forget page-changing on a website forum, ha!).

The Pete has an APU (Auxiliary Power Unit; ThermoKing Tripac). 9-HP Twin-Cylinder. 13k BTU A/C system. Powers 1,800-watt inverter. 65A alternator (120A optional). Weighs 345-lbs.

Sitting stationary for use it interferes even with my Internet telephone connection.

It doesn’t “wipe out” radio reception, but it’s just more noise.



Mines mounted (interestingly enough) behind the side panel just behind the starboard cab steps. Ahead of that fuel tank (not behind as shown in pic).

Inverter is in the port side-box under sleeper .

Exhaust is clamped to prime mover exhaust (which has a number of solid connections).

Any time I’m waiting at a shipper or receiver (can’t idle main engine) and need to kick it on for stationary A/C use is also when I have my ears on alert to problems to get across town or out of town.

I’ll research it, but figured I’d also ask as motorhomes, sailboats, etc, also have APUs.

Plus, home & business owner gensets are everywhere these days.

PALOMAR ENGINEERS RFI GEN-1
1.0” I.D. is a package of two snap-on ferrites to be installed at both ends of power cable. Two turns of cabling thru center.


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[Tallman]

Well you know it's not spark plugs! Ground the generator. On your output lines install a .047 uf capacitor that can handle the line voltage.
Just sticking the cable through the ferrite bead counts as one turn.

 

[2NC995]

Cut that sucker off when the DX is rollin'...

 

[Slowmover]

Cut that sucker off when the DX is rollin'...

Yup.

As a note for others, the truck features (4) Start batteries that also serve as House batteries. Meaning the Low Voltage Disconnect will cut the juice in fairly short order with a load of any consequence.

LED lighting sure solved that problem (cab interior going dark), and one can tractor + trailer lamps (not headlights) lit all night without the LVD problem.

That said, lack of HVAC gets old in a hurry. Especially if I’d like to go to bed!!

Just listen, right?

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[2NC995]

Low voltage disconnect? So do you have to have the truck on to run an amplifier?

 

[Slowmover]

Low voltage disconnect? So do you have to have the truck on to run an amplifier?

When I was first a driver it was a strong warning to not run a radio without the engine running. Same for the AM/FM stereo. Batteries might be a little weak and one DOESN'T want to pay to get it started. BESIDES the potential for being late.

I don’t operate much of anything without monitoring voltage. It tends to be a fast ride to 12.4V.

Up till a couple of years ago I’d just kick the cruise into fast idle. Can’t run motor today (except below 10F). Some companies would allow idle below 50F or above 80F.

So the TriPac is great to have. Auto start & shutoff. A dash switch position and ignition key position.

My total idle time last month was 7%. MPG 8.3. Those two tied together heavily.

The guys with new diesel pickups are getting shafted. Heavily. The overall fuel economy is a joke considering advances at this end. They’re no better than my 17-yr old Cummins. No faster in quarter mile. Can’t do more work.

These newest prime movers (13L Paccar, here) are running 230F oil temps and 185F coolant. With variable vane turbos, 12-speed automated manuals and some unearthly good software, the amount of freight I can move versus fuel burn with a sorta aero truck/tractor is also unreal.

220-gal fuel capacity. Call it 180-useable. At 8.0 that’s a hypothetical range of 1,400-miles. I buy fuel before that as I may average 550-miles/day. (Right now I’m fueling daily. Before shutdown. Want no surprises on awakening).

Idle the prime and its 1-1.25/gl hour.
The TriPac use doesn’t register. It may come summer.

The “noise” (as before) isn’t terrible. Being parked in the usual spots has terrain-related problems maybe worse.

Still, no noise is BEST noise.

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[2NC995]

Much the same in the military: when outside "the wire", no trucks turned off for any reason. Otherwise, they will inevitably fail to start.

But when I'm DXing the pickup stays off (unless very cold or very hot).

I'm pretty happy with the 20mpg I get from my late model Cummins, but you're right that it's not very good when put into perspective.

 

[Slowmover]

Much the same in the military: when outside "the wire", no trucks turned off for any reason. Otherwise, they will inevitably fail to start.

But when I'm DXing the pickup stays off (unless very cold or very hot).

I'm pretty happy with the 20mpg I get from my late model Cummins, but you're right that it's not very good when put into perspective.

Average on my 555 (all miles; 50/50 town & country) is 21-mpg. Bought it as it was very best spec for FE, and I formulated a plan to maximize that.

A Cummins has the advantage of no glow plugs so the double battery system is lightly used until grid heater use is needed sub 20F.

On mine I won’t be on-air enough to make a real dent in fuel (.75-1.0 gals/hr) unless it’s several hours of operation.

A third battery is still on the list per k0bg, TORKLIFT makes a frame-mount cradle.

Fast-charging the travel trailer batteries (versus solar) is another truck function. Being able to bring it on line to power the base station is a consideration (a long ways off).

An ONAN diesel RV genset is a heavy and expensive addition to a pickup. Have seen it done, but it wasn’t easy.

Hydraulic gensets (fire trucks) are even more interesting.

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[Shadetree Mechanic]

Might want to get in contact with Palomar Engineering. They could probably come up with a solution for you.

 

[Slowmover]

Might want to get in contact with Palomar Engineering. They could probably come up with a solution for you.

Their kit of two large snap-on ferrites is why noted it earlier. Just how far to take “quieting” the APU (power cables run to inverter and elsewhere) will be the thing.

Schematic for that wiring is at hand. But it could be a whole lotta $15-20 ferrites.

As I figure the APU alternator is the thing, I’ll start at the unit-whole. RF bonds plus plus DC ground plus a ferrite pair as the power exits the unit, first.

What else might be tried is the reason for the thread. I haven’t gotten far at all in researching what others have done.

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[Slowmover]

APU is a bear to access. I’ll focus where power enters body and at inverter

 

[Slowmover]

By now I’d have thought I’d have done enough TX/RX early morning with APU running that I’d get around to fixing it.

Truth is, it’s almost not noticeable.

This trip home I’ll install some ferrites to see if that’s worth the expense.

 

[Dmans]

My money (all 5 cents of it) is on the inverter as the noise source.

Good Luck.

73
David