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Easy-on PL-259 Connectors


Yes I have.

The RG-8X or "Mini-8" - these work - but you will have to think about soldering them.

To do that you unscrew the barrel - outer ring - out and slide it down the coax that will be re-attached once the you remove the outer sheath, at least 2" of the exposed braid - fold back the braid and trim it -pare it down. Remove about 1 - 1/4 to 1 - 1/2 inches of the inner insulation to expose the inner conductor - note how the ferrule center twists as a threaded insert onto the coax - and straighten up and twist the inner conductor the same direction - so that when you start the thread it on, the wire won't unwind and fray causing a possible short and entangle itself. This will take some tries "for fitting to length" but by twisting on the center ferrule like a threaded bolt you see how far and how much room you have to work with. It is not necessary - but you can solder this permanently as you complete the work in final fit - for final assembly.

The threading makes it nice for temporary easy assembly and takedown if you have areas that use tight routing and smaller knockouts. Then - you can thread the coax thru, assemble the connector and then disassemble as needed to remove - it is not a requirement that it has to be soldered but for long term installs - it is recommended that you solder and apply some type of "liquid tape" to seal the coax to the connector at the threaded end to keep moisture and water out. But for temporary fittings - they are the easiest to work with - completed connector with barrel...
 
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These would be fine for emergency use but otherwise stick with tried and true properly soldered connectors it will save you lots of grief.
 
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Do those require a special tool, or will a standard wire stripper/crimper work?

Yes, you have to buy the tool and you get different die for it depending on which end you’re crimping. But trust me, it’s worth it. I haven’t had one failure yet due to the shield breaking away from the connector. The really good ends will be tight enough that they’ll say you don’t need to even solder the center conductor. But, I always do.

Add a little heat shrink over the crimp and you got a professional looking piece of coax.
 
Each and every one of you after my original reply to that question, are correct...

There are the applications, need and end results.

Each one of these replies is correct.

The only area I was trying and hopefully have addressed, is when you have coax, and need to make a connector- the question was just that - only I added the ability for the connector to work as a temporary or if soldered - permanent replacement.

But only if the application warranted it, so I left that to the OP - I see a photo I recognized and responded as yes, and here's how I do it...

Side benefit of the threaded is the ability to have it taken apart to allow you to keep the coaxial small diameter to thread thru knockouts holes and grommets without having to lose a connector each time you have to cut off the end - it also allows you to remove the coax without losing the ability to re-make the coax with a new connector for the next temporary install.

I didn't want to overthink the problem - at least from a vehicle owners perspective. Anyone whom has had to route coax thru firewalls, brackets, bracing, headliners and the like - can appreciate the ability to keep the threaded coax and thread it on when done and even then, you can remove the threaded and sleeve w/solder only if it's required to be more permanent as needed.
 
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Well, if you buy quality crimp-on connectors, the sleeve that goes over the shield is replaceable. So that’s the only piece you technically lose or waste, they sell them by the bag so you have spares.

You can run coax on a big truck easily with the ends off, it’s easier to crimp the connectors on the coax right there on the truck. Dragging an iron that’ll get hot enough out to the truck is a pain too, I prefer the crimp.

I’ve never been good with solder on ends. Also never had an iron that would get hot enough and recover fast enough to do the job, just didn’t have a real need for one. I have however used a small torch but you damn sure better be careful with that or you’ll annihilate the coax, haha.
 
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Just found this old thread of mine. LOL. My memory really is going. :(

https://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/twist-on-pl259-connectors.222835/

This type of screw-on PL-259 uses a FME adapter and comes with 18' RG8X attached.
I might go with this for my "through the wall" and use a barrel connector outside (weatherproofed). Would be cheaper than buying a good crimping tool.

Here's an example:

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/wilson-antennas-18-coax-cable-with-pl-259-fme-connectors/

Captain K prefers this style (FME) over the screw-on type I was considering, and that's good enough for me. (I hear some of y'all snickering. Hey, even if he and I don't always see eye-to-eye, he does know his stuff.)
 
57226BBA-BA5A-435E-85DD-187474121694.gif
Just found this old thread of mine. LOL. My memory really is going. :(

https://www.worldwidedx.com/threads/twist-on-pl259-connectors.222835/

This type of screw-on PL-259 uses a FME adapter and comes with 18' RG8X attached.
I might go with this for my "through the wall" and use a barrel connector outside (weatherproofed). Would be cheaper than buying a good crimping tool.

Here's an example:

https://www.raneystruckparts.com/wilson-antennas-18-coax-cable-with-pl-259-fme-connectors/

Captain K prefers this style (FME) over the screw-on type I was considering, and that's good enough for me. (I hear some of y'all snickering. Hey, even if he and I don't always see eye-to-eye, he does know his stuff.)


 

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